Rolexman

This sounds like it was written by the person who worked on a watch I had in house one time...

The watch was running slow, so the watchmaker (?) cut 1/4 from the seconds hand to make it run faster...the seconds hand was only 3/4 as long as it should be.

Watches dont' run slower or faster when the hand it going up or down, this is not correct, and hands are balanced as well.

To answer the original question, it could be a couple of things, shaking hard is a really bad idea, because the balance will probably overbank (spin completely around and hit the outside of the pallet arm), my guess is that the balance and pallet are jamming up from the shaking, and/or as someone already said, the movement is probably indirect center seconds drive. Indirect seconds have slack between the gears and do odd things, you can check easily by holding the watch vertical, watch the seconds hand from 12-6 and watch it from 6-12. If on the way down with gravity you see the hand jumping, and on the way up against gravity the hand is smooth, it's indirect drive.

Mechanical watches will overbank when shaken, all of them, jogging with any mechanical watch or playing tennis for example, is a bad idea...I could tell you about the IWC that arrived with all the dial markers broken off...from a good backhand swing...

RG

Thanks for the input WD! I indeed think the second hand is indirect driven because as soon as I hack the second hand stops, but the balance and palet arm still make some swings before slowing down gently. I did notice however some DG2813's I have do hack different e.g. with a direct brake and stop of the balance. So it could be there are some variations between the 2813?. . .

I don't know if the DG has direct driven seconds hand, if not, it probably is due to that.

I don't understand. Could you elaborate?

Swimming, diving, hot tub, shower, all is good. No worries.

I think you're missing a few steps. You have to take some preliminary measures before you do all those things. 9 out of 10 reps I received (including the UPO) all have loose case backs, non greased seals etc. Just some of the things which can cause major problems when exposing the watch to water and moist.

In order to make sure any watch is properly waterproof you have to secure all the possible water entry point: Crown, case back, crystal, (if applicable HEV, chrono pushers)!

Probably this is related to a thread a read in a non-rep forum...saying that this movement reduces the speed when the second hand is going up (watch hold vertical) and runs faster when the hand goings down...

In the thread there was a solution about reducing pressure somewhere...I could not understand then the solution....

Francisco.

Thanks for the input. If you didn't understand it how can I?

maybe the hack mechanism is loose and engages accidentaly.

judt my 2 cents

I doubt it but thanks for the participation anyway

Well the title is pretty self explanatory. When I shake (hard) a DG2813 sometimes the hand freezes for a second (or less). All my DG2813 movements do this. I presume this affects it's time keeping permance e.g. when jogging.

I find this a little strange but as all my DG2813 watches do this I think it is normal for this movement. . .

Any insights on what causes it?

Well the title is pretty self explanatory. When I shake a DG2813 sometimes the hand freezes for a second (or less). All my DG2813 movements do this. I presume this affects it's time keeping permance e.g. when jogging.

I find this a little strange but as all my DG2813 watches do this I think it is normal for this movement. . .

Any insights on what causes it?

SSD is the most accurate and has the best modding possibilities.

hi, just received my PO chrono, i removed the back to have a look at the movement and to be honest it looks fantastic, all parts are very shiny with no scratches on the parts whatsoever, the one in this review looks very poorly made, scratches etc...

I will post a pic sometime today or tomorrow hopefully.

I'm sure different suppliers ship out different versions of movements manufactured by different factories, all that i can say is my movement matches the picture of the movement shown on my suppliers website when it comes to quality...

Any comments..

You can't judge a book by it's cover . . .

Can anyone tell me if this model is waterproof. By this I mean can I swim in the sea in this watch?

Thanks in advance

There are some additional measures necessary before you can swim with this watch. I will post some technical pics and 'how-to' to make sure it is waterproof this week-end.

In a nutshell:

Remove case back

Remove the crown/ stem

Uncase the movement

Glue/ putty the HEV hole

Case the movement

Grease the two crown seals

Insert the crown/ stem

Grease the case back seal

Put the case back back on

Use a case back tool to thighten the case back

Result? It tested to the max on my tester (6 ATM ) . So IMO you can even dive with it!

Pics provided by Pr0digy30.

The problem he and I are having is putting the bridge back on. . .

That's a looker for sure. You do however need to buy a matching ring .. platinum perhaps?

Or am I being too picky?

Hell yeah, I studied the pic a good 30 seconds and I still can't see what you're talking about

It also depends on the crystal gasket. I just push out the crystal on my SSD with my thumb and repress it with a large heavy book (hardback) by just sitting on it with my fat ass . Due to the large surface of the book the pressure is evenly spread over the crystal. But this only applies to flat crystals a la SSD.

I don't think there are any replica DG2813 movements as they are already cheap as hell. They cost around $12 retail and whole sale maybe 2~5 bucks.

So you get a real genuine DG2813 IMO

Sorry to burst your bubble

But when my testing machine beeps and the 'Diamond' light comes on.......

Sapphire it is

.

I don't have a diamond tester so I tested it with the 'water drop' test and the 'fingernail tick-sound' test so this proves both aren't very accurate

I do however think the saphire is very thin tough.

Post edited.

No, only single, believe me. I own the latest version with the maroon font, and it has cheap, single AR!

Can't argue with that

On all the pics I saw and reviews I read it seemed and was referred to as double AR.

Now I know the truth. Thanks!

My PO arrived yesterday. I will post some technical shots soon but here are some short observations.

-The dial/ hands are absolute immaculate. Not a spec of dust or smudge anywhere.

-Smooth bracelet. I don't think it needs to be oiled at all.

-Compared to my SSD lite the PO is a very heavy watch with a more quality feel.

-Crown is very solid and screws down a good 3 turns.

-Claps fold markings are etched instead of engraved.

-Best of all scratch proof Sapphire crystal

-It has a double AR look but it's just a blue coating with no reflection dimishing properties.

-Bezel clicks nice and solid.

-No capital P and O ond the Planet Ocean engravement on the case back.

-Bracelet has a gen like construction with pins and tubes (a [censored] to size).

-Nice gold and clean 21j DG2813 movement which I already managed to regulate to +2 sec/dag on my SSD. It's a great work horse.

-Plastic movement spacer.

-2 crown seals!!

-The HEV was secured with a impossible to reach c-clip so I couldn't check nor grease the seals.

-The inside of the case back was also marked with all the propper Omega markings which is a nice touch.

For only 65 pounds ths is a very nice rep. I

As stated I will post some pics soon!

Which of these two tools is the better one at opening the UPO caseback? I'm looking for one that is durable in that the bits won't easily break, and that slippage doesn't occur easily. Thanks in advance for any input.

I have both but for the PO the 1st one works good for me. Especially because one doesn't know how the 3 studs of the second are positioned. It could be that the 3th stud is not in the correct position and therfore doesn't fit the hole/ cut out of the case back.

Preference:

Yeah, I guess. The Bentley 6.75 was NEVER offered with double AR.

Latest versions were with DOUBLE AR... no question about it.

Buy a stickybal....lt it will save you mucho $$$$$$$

PS: Sorry to hear about your bad luck.

Remember the thread 'little white lies'? I'm not saying it isn't waterproof. However, 1000m will be out of the question, 100m could be possible. But than again you still have the HEV issue as explained above. This construction could be simular to the DSSD, I don't know much about that model. The construction of the HEV can been seen in one of the reviews of the Seawolf.

SOSF, it has been out a while and has very good reviews, it is impossible to spot as a rep to all but the most trained eyes

I owned a gen SOSF and the rep can be spoted from 3 feet away due to the pearl. The poor lume job on the hour markers is an instand give-away too!

In regards to accuracy the Seawolf is the better choice.

The HE valve constructed for trouble. Instead of only popping open from pressure within the case (inside-out), it can be pushed in from the outside (outside-in)... So if the HEV is pushed only gently (by accident) when submerged your Seawolf will be a Waterwold. . . .

For swimming one can't beat the Submariner rep. It has a genuine like trip-lock crown (3 seals), screw down case back and no additional gadgets (e.g. HEV). Just make sure the crystal is seated correctly and the case back is thightened and you're ready to swim or even dive

The rep bezel insert is scratched to all hell and not ever usable.

I had a spare case from another member here but that spare came without the insert or the crystal so I have no real useful spare parts remaining.

The rep insert scratches very easily with a razor blade and will also sratch with even a sharp edge of a screwdriver tip. I used both when scratching mine. I am not sure if this means it is not real ceramic. Coffee mugs are ceramic right and I can sure scratch those with any thing sharp as well?

I will try to see what appears if I scrape the bottom side of the insert, maybe it is just a coating on top of aluminum on the rep I am not sure.

If I find out conclusively, I will post it or if you have any advise on how I can test it, the rep insert is useless so might as well use it for educational purposes.

That said the Hublot ceramic bezels do seem much more "scratch resistant" than the rolex inserts.

Even the gen rolex one I think would scratch, though I don't plan on trying that one out.

Thanks for the info. Looking forward to the findings and pics

Is it too early to start whining that my watch isn't here yet? It's been three days, nine hours, fifty-three minutes and forty seconds since I ordered and I'm only on the other side of the world. Where the **** is technology which allows solid objects to be faxed?? I would've had it Sunday!

Well, it's been a whole minute since I started this post, and it is STILL not here.

Patience is not one of my virtues. This is going to be painful. Maybe I need a different hobby. *Sigh*

same here mate. I'm also anxiously waiting till it hits my doormat . . .