Rolexman

Which movement are we talking about? You probably messed up the keyless works. The only solution is to remove the dial and hands and put the parts that moved back in place...

PS: Better ask mods to place this thread in the 'repair & upgrade' section. You will get more answers there.

Really nice tutorial, first time I did something like this. I was wondering if someone tested the watch? How many meters can it go underwater?

Total noob, but if I want to dive with it to 30 metres, will it survive ?

Mine tested to 5ATM which equals to aprox. 50 meters. So some leisure diving wouldn't be a problem. If the mod was done in the same way I don't see a reason why it should fail

You could have yours tested or just take the chance after you've done the mod.

You will have problems with the hands, stem and movement spacer for starters...

Good luck on the project.

Damn, all those versions are even driving me crazy

It's a V1 case (see the curve of the lugs), V1 dial (missing tick), V1 case back (logo not embossed enough) ,V1 bracelet (curved end link cut outs), V1 rider tabs (nice and deep), V1 clasp and fold (French engravement), V1 chrono pusher ( beveled sleeves)... it probably has the etched 'b' on the side of the bezel. Just like the V1

And indeed new date wheel (as all a7750 Breits that are comming out have), AR and silver hands.

So it's definitely a V1 with some updates

Heh...ain't that the truth!

Did this mod to my POrikaa over the weekend. First time i had ever taken a watch apart, and it was a piece of cake!

Great job! This watch will give you more pleasure than any gen. That does feel good doesn

V2 case, V2 dial, V2 case back, V2 bracelet, V2 rider tabs, V2 clasp and fold, V2 chrono pusher sleeves... do I need to go on?

This is a V2 with the only exception it has AR and silver hands.

Don't want to spoil anyone's party but this is V2 with updated date wheel. Nothing more nothing less.....

Quick question. How do you get the inside of the crystal spotless? Ive got a polishing cloth, but still does not look spotless.

Well, getting the inside of the crystal spotless is THE hardest part of it all. I know members who almost lost their minds trying to get the dial and crystal dust and spot free

I use a fiber optic cloth which you can get with every optician (mostly they give it for free when you ask nice). I tried different fiber optic cloths but most of them still seem to give off very tiny particals. The fiber cloths which are used for reading glasses have the finest structure which gives the best result. First I use my breath to fog up the crystal from the inside and then I rub it nice and clean with the fiber optic coth. I check for dust and particals under a heavy spot light and on a black background (this way the mostly white dust specs can be seen best) before I decide to put the movement back in. It's trial and error.

Good luck!

This was an awesome how to.

I did this to my SMP today. Instead of bathroom caulk, i used a 2 part epoxy which sets up in 4 to 6 minutes and is totally dry in 20.

I will be taking my watch to get tested at my local jeweler tomorrow.

I can honestly say for a newb like me, this was easy and will be well worth it.

Thanks for the feed-back. Glad my tutorial was of help

Man, you almost had me there

Give it a year or so. First there will be the cheap Canal version... after a while the high-end version.

Shoot me a PM. I have a spare

What is the wooden thing you are applying the grease with ?

A toothpick shaved flat on 1 side (like a spatula)

I can't understand why nobody paid him a visit......

Either to ask what is going on or to kick his ass! If this guy lived in The Netherlands I would bring a f*cking army to his doorstep!

Welcome MagnusW!

Take a look in the dealer section. All the info on prices and contact can be found there.

The He valve on my POrikaa screws down tight (like the crown). Is a mod such as this really necessary since the valve screws down? I can understand doing this for diving purposes, but I would imagine it would be 'good enough' straight out of the box for showering/surface swims.

How tight it screws down has nothing to do wether it's water proof or not. It depends on two main factors.

1 Design:

The crown and HEV must have the right dimensions. For example: if the tube is to short the crown won't screw down far enough and therefor the tube won't touch the rubber seal inside the crown.

2 Seal:

If there is no rubber seal but only metal on metal water will enter. It's therefore important the metal contact points of the cown and HEV are joined by a rubber.

This applies for all moist; rain, washing hands etc.

A perfect rep is a gen

Couldn't have said it better!

I think you are right, but my A7750 is supposed to be brand new... Maybe it isn't...

I'll try to find a non branded jeweler shop, but most of them only sell quartz watches, so I think they won't be able to repair my watch.

Than you for your advice

The major problem with the A7750 although brand new, it usually is assembled in a dirty environment. So new but dirty movements are very common in our reps. If your jeweler can't fix it himself he will probably know a watchmaker who can, just ask

Good work, Pierre.

If you are disassembling movements, you must have the proper oils (& oilers), but a timing machine is definitely more of a convenience since you can time a watch quite accurately without 1.

Dear Freddy, please elaborate. Does one not need a vibrograph for a correct beat adjustment? How do you go about?

An update. I've just tried to manually wind the watch, the rotor spins as I turn the crown. Exact same symptoms as described by Francisco in his tutorial here:

Repairing when you manually wind and the rotor spins

Unfortunate that this problem has occured in a brand new watch, but it goes to show that while the watch may be new, the movements may not be. The required skill to perform this fix is way beyond my capability to fix. Is this an issue that needs to be resolved immediately, i.e. if left alone would cause major movement problems in the future?

This is not causing the low PR.

I have found a topic about a simple slipping second hand, and DemonSlayer I think you were right:

when I start the chrono the center second hand try to move (but in fact it's blocked) and the watch stops working.

And when I stop the chrono, the watch starts again working.

Do you have an idea about my problem?

Than it has to be something jamming the chrono module. It has to be taken apart to see what is causing it. For a skilled watchmaker this shouldn't be a problem. The movement is probably dirty or a gear could have lost some theeth?

Thank you for your answers

Do you know a good watchmaker in Europe?

Cause I don't want to send it back to China...

Try a local (non-branded) jeweler shop :One that does NOT carry high-end brands like Rolex, Omega, Breitling etc. They usually have no problems working on reps.

After doing more research myself, if one wants to upgrade movement to gen ETA, it is best to start off with a rep with a cheap ETA clone. That way, since the gen movement will be the same size, the old components will still fit (dial, hands, etc.). You can then replace them with gen components one at a time if desired.

Indeed. You're on the right track

You're missing a lot!

Hands

Stem

Crown

Tube

Right movement spacer (impossible to get so you probably have to make it yourself)

And in the end you will still have a majorly flawed PO.....

You should better do some more reading and learning before starting such a project

Yes, now it's truly functional

Nice wallpaper:

It's just a simple slipping second hand. It's a $10 fix. Bring it to a watchmaker. You only need to remove the movement, remove the hand, glue the post and put everything back together....

The chronograph works fine. Just the hand that is slipping