daovto

Fack... It's that time of year again!! Thanks for sharing 👍

Wow that's a truly impressive collection Are you looking to consolidate in any way

Deep down I'm a sucker for Omega - particularly SMP - and having just sold a past gen grail of mine I am looking for a good rep. What is the typical tells on a rep SMP? Is it mainly HEV? Looking at yours down deep in the corner it looks to be in correct position... No?

Anyhow enjoy your beautiful selection...

Here is a part of my collection.....

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I like, and often use this as an alternative especially on anything that has a bubble back or more generally already sits high on a NATO

Of course there's also the more permanent removal of the underneath (short) piece and using the off cut to make a keeper for a RAF style strap. There is this good post over at WUS with a decent example and tutorial. It's as simple as it sounds though.

https://forums.watchuseek.com/f222/making-1960s-style-nylon-strap-modern-style-g10-nato-strap-833573.html#/topics/833573

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That is pure watch porn... amazing work sir

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Love that... looks as good as anything Omega have thrown (up) out...

[mention=50989]SSTEEL[/mention]  - A Micky build. I had an old Seamaster GMT that needed something doing to it. I’m not one for originality with my reps so I thought let’s get funky.  MIcky built it and then I added a Parnis insert sourced on eBay. 
 
 

... for instance

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Looks good! How is the matte black paint job? I like the finish and texture of the Vietnam ones but not so much the Yuki ones. 
 
For $40 less, I'm super happy with the caucacon dial. 

I'm not overly impressed with the texture on this one. Understandably it looks a little too freshly finished. But as I don't have any experience altering the dial appearance I'll leave well alone.

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Very classy build, and I dare say worth the time and patience you source all the required parts...

Is that gen movement left on the list though ;-)

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A 5513 dial from the other seller Richview8i8... you be the judge! My experience was that I didn't receive the dial photographed for the listing.

 

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but will I see any difference as a newbie with movement etc? I won't ever use the chrono features, but I do prefer them to a plain face

The more expensive one does have a more accurate representation of the authentic movement, and I would say it might be a better watch overall.

However if as you say the less than 100% working chrono is not an issue you may be quite happy with the lower cost rep.

Take a look at the available QC pics and see if anybody who owns one chips in. Both look nice so enjoy whichever you decide on... and don't forget to post lots of pics

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Update... so nothing really surprising to report. As you stated@Automatico the dial opening was pretty much bang on 26mm (and original dial 26.5mm) when I put the Digi calliper on them.

As dial was in flight I decided to wait and see... but unsurprisingly the dial is pretty much 25.9something :-( so it is not going to work for this project.

Just for completeness the pics if dial that arrived from the eBay seller are below. I'm not really qualified to comment on quality but it might help others to make a choice at some point.

This was a $160 5513 feet first dial from ebay seller richview8i8 (hope that matches any searches here)

It isn't the dial pictured on the listing and guess what it doesn't look anywhere near as good - to my eye at least.

Having put that one down to experience I now need some help please. If I'm to carry on with this project and try to create a decent mid budget 5514 pre-Comex with the dial opening of 26mm what are my best option s for dial!?

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A wealth of sage advice and information here as usual [thanks] and could I ask one question about case back gasket too...

I imagine that the groove [apologies if my terms are incorrect] that the gasket sits in dictates the correct gasket shape unless you are replacing gen with omega spec. So if the groove is cut square would a flat/square gasket work best... and same for a rounded groove?? Or does it not matter so long as it creates the right seal?

Wow... call the hosting company we need more storage for all those pics

But all jokes aside could you post a picture, just one will do ;-] of the style of watch you are referring to. I think that would help me to share your vision for this project.

I’m sure some of the more technically gifted will be able to point you to suppliers that may have a caseback to fit. My lack of knowledge as to weather the threads are industry standard or not means I could lead you down the garden path to disappointment 🤬

In any case good luck with it brother. Keep posting updates as you go.

Swashbuckle cheer... ahharrrrr ☠️️

Congratulations on the promotion Mike 🤝 really well deserved, and of course thanks to all who give up there time to keep this wagon rolling it’s appreciated.

Thanks for your reply.
..my initial question was can someone help indentify the movement....that was the main part of the request. All I got back was sanctimonious disrespect. .and I did not request any information about installing a 3135 movement in a watch...and insults came from both sides..mostly private.

And I quote... "I would like to replace with a 3135 movement"

This is all

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Again... thank you@automatico I really enjoyed reading again the sticky and understand a little more the challenges working with these cases.

I am sticking with an ETA movement so there are going to be dial fitment compromises... feet etc... these are at least made less complicated by the non date spec. But the dial opening is a worry now... I will be uncasing the movement and dial again this week and will be measuring everything in anticipation.

I recall an inexpensive build a couple of years back where I encountered the same dial and opening issue and overcame it somehow... If only my memory or notes were better!


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"I was surprised by the plexi fitment - is that just this rep case or gen?"  

Only on cases using this type of bezel.  Genuine and oem spec cases have an inner bezel ring that presses over the crystal skirt and the rotating bezel snaps down over it.  There is a thin spacer between the inner and rotating bezels to provide tension to keep the bezel in place.  The Abay case neck is oem spec (28.2mm) so aftmkt oem spec bezel kits will work. 

Case backs made for the gasket groove in the case with 30.5mm case back threads will usually fit these cases.

 

The Abay cases were the 'Eta project cases' of their day much like the MBW/MBK cases were the 'rolex project cases' of their day. 

AfaIk most of the current batch of '5514' cases are not the same as the Abay cases.  The current bezels are probably better and most will have the back gasket in the case back.  Few will have the oem spec HEV.

 

Abay cases make excellent Eta 1680 projects with an oem spec crystal/bezel kit, oem spec case tube/crown (I used TC ct/crn), trimmed CG, and drilled lugs.  Better 1680 projects than 55xx projects only because of the 26.0mm dial window opening.  With an oversize 55xx dial they are fine. 

 

Here are some 29mm +/- dials from Raff that should work if the minute markers are not covered up too much.  Never tried one.

 

http://rafflesdials.com/watch-dial/

 

 

 

Just updating this thread as I decided to go down the road towards a 'better' and less conspicuous pre-comex 5514 build.  

I'm not intending to go down the path of gen parts - even if they were available. Just trying to lift the overall quality of the rep case and parts to what would pass (to regular folks) on the wrist as a nice looking submariner and to more knowledgeable folks as a decent rep 5514 :-)

 

So far I have been evaluating all the dial options and on basis of cost v quality I have decided to go with a refinished feet first dial off the bay (on Singer plate?! maybe). Also going to try a WSO bezel assembly and see if it is more faithful representation. A Clark Tropic plexi is waiting to try if needed. Sterile case back also.

 

Whilst waiting for parts I decided to work on the bracelet and drilled lugs on the case... opening them up to gen spec successfully. I already had some Gen Spec bars waiting to snap in - thanks[mention=73322]sogeha[/mention] for those super nice Swiss ones

 

Oh... I need to get brave and tackle the CGs... I've been eyeballing as many 5514 photographs to appreciate the shape. Just trying to learn as much as I can before removing any steel!

 

@Autimatico thanks again your knowledge regarding this 5514 case has been invaluable

 

 

 

Nice intro dude... have fun... plenty to read and learn around here. You found the best house on the block

You aren’t really listening to some solid advice here dude... the movement looks like a Guangzhou DG movement of no real quality and as Sogeha said there is little to no chance of getting a 3135 to drop in. Even if you did the dial will not fit without modification, the date window may not align with the date wheel.

Keep it as is and wear it... and buy a complete new high end rep from one of the Trusted Dealers.

X-Flotiglia kind of day in the garden

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This is easy... Panerai

The reason... simple... the reps are so damned good why bother, and plus...

Have you seen the size of the boxes they come in!!! Would have to buy a bigger house for them

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TC 16610LV V6 with gen LN insert on leather for a lazy Sunday evening.


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you clearly aren’t enjoying that LV... just let me know when it needs some love

But genuinely... it looks pretty cool like that J


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TC16610LV with gen LN insert.

I like it way better this way.

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Still!!! 🤣

I like your mod in any case... I wish I could pick up the same rep and mod the hands for swords and insert... to something... I don’t know... different


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Thank you for sharing... there are life lessons in that for us all . Really glad the gesture if support gave you a lift, and more than this that you have the opportunity with the new gig. Good Luck brother

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