Mike_G

I found some additional info. Bergeon makes feet that can be glued or epoxied onto the dial. Looks like a regular foot but with a large diameter base. There is also some info on soldering feet on using a pencil torch. If there is interest (and if allowed to do so) I can post a link. The gist of is to drill small holes / depressions in the back of the dial where the feet will go. Then using a third hand position the wire in the depression. Then place some solder paste and chips of solder around the base. Finally use the pencil torch to melt the solder. One final idea was to take a 2824 dial and cut out the center leaving an outer ring to be epoxied to the back of the dial. I don't have a good tool for this (dremel maybe?) I have some dial dots already and a pencil torch in route. I think I'll practice these and see which works best for me. I've nervous about this as I have already ruined soe parts with rookie mistakes / lack of skill and practice.

So I'm putting together my 1016 Explorer build. I have a Yuki dial and a gen ETA movement. Its a 2824 movement so it has a date wheel. I'll have to cut the feet off the dial. The question is how best to put all this together. One forum member suggested epoxying the dial to the spacer that goes between movement and the dial. Easy enough to do , but is that all I need to do? Do I need to secure the spacer to the movement? Should I use dial dots? If I use dial dots, where do I put them?

I have read some pretty nasty posts on other boards about "fake Rolex" watches and the people who wear them. I have come to think it, especially when it comes to vintage watches, as no different than a Cobra replica. The original is a rare and expensive sports car and a whole industry has developed around replicas of the Cobra. They're accepted and admired and no one calls them "fake" Cobras. The same is also true of classic cars. Its rare to find a 100% original muscle car for example. Many are restored to original condition while others are "resto-mods" and may be fitted with modern components. I think the work being done by the modders is indeed art and the purists / watch snobs should accept it for what it is. I wouldn't drive an original '67 Cobra 427 thats worth a million (at least not often) likewise I wouldn't be inclined to wear an original vintage Comex Submariner too often. THe replicas allow an opportunity to enjoy these classic without the fear of putting a sizeable investment at risk.

What gen parts are typically used for a 5513 / 7928 build? Any tips on what case mods are needed and who does them?

Had the same concern. Emailed Yuki and he sent link for this alternate site. He said that there must be a problem with the site and is having someone look into it. I went ahead and ordered an Explorer dial. Checkout process was the same and got the same follow up emails with tracking info.

I'm almost finished with my 1016 Explorer build and think I want to do a Tudor 7928. I think I'm going to start with a Cartel 5513. I figure I'll go with the cheaper version with the 2813 movement for $148. I have a Seagull TY2100 (2836) that I can use. My thought is to use a dial from Yuki ot ND Trading. My question is which gen parts to use and where to have any case mods done.

Does anyone produce reps of old Breitlings eg the Chronomat ref. 769 circa 1940's? who has the best Siperocean II Reps?

I think I'm on the right track Bob Ofrei suggested 9010, 8200 and either D5 or HP1300

So I found an ETA 2783 and a 2836 both old and both cheap. My goal is to service these two movements myself. Hopefully I'll end up with two working movements. Worst case I ruin both but no worries because my combined investment is about $50. My question is what the fewest types of Moebius lubricants and if limited to 4, which 4 for these two movements. I have thought about 9010, 9415, D5 and a 8xxx. help me improve my selection by telling me which 4 you would choose.

The seller on the auction site advertised this as a seagull clone of the 2836. I'll probably consider this an expensive lesson and get another movement. I'll still try to repair this one myself. It'll be good practice ;-) Thanks for the responses

I'm able to set time counter clockwise but not clockwise. Second hand moves but minute and hour hands not advancing. The stem comes right out. This is the stem that came with the movement. The movement was working at first. Stem was secure, I could set the time, hands advanced etc. Stem too long for case. So I was using a trial and error method of cutting the stem to size, nipping off just a little at a time until I could get the crown to screw down. At a point I noticed the stem not locking into place. This is when I noticed the other issues and noticed that the dial foot clamp had fallen off. If anyone knows of a fix or even a tutorial I could look at that would be a huge help. I could take it to a watchmaker but I'm pretty sure it would be more economical to just replace the movement.

... Well it looks complete. This is my 16600 Sea Dweller rep. I got the case, dial and hand set from Yuki. I'm disappointed with the print quality on the dial, but figure I can upgrade later. The movement is a Seagull 2836 clone that I bought from eBay. The bracelet came from TC. The reason it only "looks" complete is because the movement is "f'd up" a bit. First, it seems to stop periodically. Second, the minute hand isn't advancing and finally I can't set it and the stem won't lock in because the part below fell out. (Including photos of watch as well. I know I can upgrade the movement too, but this one is brand new and I'd like to get at least a year's use out of it. Also the seller is in China and I figure it'll be a PIA to send back so I'm hoping I can fix this . Anyone know the name of this part and whether I have a simple fix or a major headache on my hands?

Definitely rep. Not sure of the specific model. Listing referred to it as Marina Militare and stated the size as 44mm

Bought this on an auction site back in January and finally arrived today. First impression? It's huge! I'm seriously thinking I should try and return it. I'm curious about the quality though.

I decided to just put everything away for a couple of days and go at it fresh this weekend. If I can't make it work going to order a new set of hands. In the meantime I found a decent tutorial on esslinger.com and ordered a couple of tools and some rodico. Also bought a couple of generic black dials and a lume kit. Going to practice my dial aging skills. No need to be in a hurry and I want to get this right. Thanks all for your help.

Here is the movement without the hour wheel. From the little I know I'm thinking this should be the correct H4 cannon pinion. That's more an assumption that anything. This is a new Swiss ETA 2824-2. I have a 2783 that I could use. Needs to be serviced though

Those both look awesome! I need to slow down and experiment / practice the aging techniques. Bart your bezel appears to have a brownish tint to it. How did you get that result?

I like the tropical look. I wonder how hard that is to create and the best method. Anyone try iodine and baking?

Thanks everyone for your patience and advice. I love vintage watches and making things so this is a perfect marriage i.e. A lot of frustration trying to get what I want. All kidding aside its unnerving spending this kind of money to build a rep watch and it's nice to have a place to ask questions.

Referring to the pics I posted, both are purportedly 2824 cannon pinions. One has a large opening and I think it would be relatively easy to fit the second hand on there. Mine is like the first pic though and has that tiny pin/ tube or whatever from inside the larger tube ( sorry I really need to learn better nomenclature). I can't get the the tiny tab on the back of the second hand to click onto this. The two examples are so different it led me to question whether this second hand is even compatible. Should all hands made to fit 2824 movement fit all types of 2824 cannon pinions? I would love to find a diy solution. First, Ivwant to learn and second, not sure if my 1016 homage will be well received by a local pro. Sending out to a vendor on RWG is a possibility but a last resort. Is there a guideline on how close to the dial to mount the hour hand. Finally, I'm pleased with my aging of the hands. To my eyes the dial aging looks fake. Admittedly I used a yellow sharpie and a light brown furniture touch up marker. I think I need to either have it relumed white or off white or try to age the dial even more. At this point I don't think there's a really good middle ground.

I researched and gathered my parts and started my build. I went with a Yuki dial with white lume and a set of sub hands for a 2824 movement. I have a new Swiss ETA 2824-2. I removed the legs from the Yuki dual. I then fastened the movement spacer to the back of the dial with epoxy. I decided to try my hand at aging the dial (bad idea). The big PIA is trying to get the hands right. I put the hour hand on first, then minute hand. The hour hand is rubbing the dial so I obviously pushed on too far. Not sure how far onto the hour hand "post(?)" to put the hour hand. The minute hand went on fine but isn't perfectly parallel to the dial. The real PIA has been the second hand. After many many futile attempts. I found that there are different types of cannon pinions and I'm wondering if this may be the problem. The cannon pinion on my movement is the type shown in the first photo below (H4?). I suspect that maybe the second hands that I have are for the type in the second photo? Is there a difference? I really need some help here. First, the dial. Should I use it, scrap it or have it relumed? Second, how do I get these hands on and get them on correctly. Is it possible the hands I have are not compatible with this movement even though they are advertised to be for a 2824? I don't have any close up photos of the hands but can try to post some later if need be. Edit: I added some photos of the hands I'm using. Not close ups, but all I have for now. Don't laugh but colored the lume with a yellow Sharpie and exposed to muriatic acid fumes for an hour or so.

Wrote to Yukiwatch about the poor print job on the dial and the misspelling in the case back. No offer to do anything about. He said that this is an economy model thus the poor print job on the dial and that the misspelling on the case back is intentional to distinguish it from the high end cases.

Okay I chuckled at the misspelling of "Switzerland" after all the inside of the case back. However, I zoomed in on the dial and it looks like an amateur did the printing. I checked yuki's website sure to double check the photos for this set. Clearly not the dial I got. See below. The first photo is the dial advertised and the second one is the dial I got.

Who is making the best sd cases? I know about TC now for sub parts and sd bracelets. Not familiar with BC. Who are the JMB's and Whoopy's of the sub/ sd world?

I have ordered a 16600 bracelet from TC. Should have it soon. This is meant to be a budget build. I would love to do a high quality sub / Sd later after I finish my 1016.