When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.
-
Posts
1,103 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Everything posted by PAMman
-
The only 44mm handwind Panerai dial which could reasonable be termed as having a 'sausage' appearance is the T SWISS T dial in the A or early B series. These had raised markers and the straight batons at 1, 2, 4, 5 etc were vaguely sausage like in appearance. The only one that fits your criteria is the PAM040. The regular
-
There seems to be a lot of confusion about which series introduced the larger ( V -type ) CG, with popular opinion appearing to be the H series. The H series saw significant changes in the Panerai range with the introduction of the CdG decorated handwind movements and black sandwich dials in the handwind series (apart from the 000 & 005). However, the larger brushed CGs appeared with the G series watches which still had the 'painted' dials and the PANERAI engraved movements.
-
Yeah, the PAM040 is the only one and it had a 'T' dial, which I presume is what you mean by the 'sausage' term - i.e. raised sausage-like markers rather than the flat Luminova markers. Otherwise the black dial didn't appear in a titanium case until the G series 177, which had a display back, the last of the 'PANERAI' engraved movements and the last of the non-sandwich dials. Therefore, non-sandwich black dialled titanium models are limited to the 040B and the G177 with 200 units and 500 units respectively - not common at all.
-
Looks similar to DSN's wierd CG. The top and bottom sections are equal thickness and seem to be parallel, like DSN's. Also looks roughly finished which reminds me of DSN's CGs too.
-
No, rep screws and gen screws are the same fit. I just meant that Jimmy's cases have tighter tolerances than regular rep cases and the screw threads are tighter.
-
Jimmy's cases use the standard gen or rep screws. If you are used to standard reps then the screws are much tighter to fit but I haven't ever stripped one. However, even a genuine Panerai case will strip if you are unlucky. I use springbars in most of mine and I know that this is a popular option for many people and it avoids any concern about the lug threads.
-
I have actually considered this too but didn't get beyond buying the E117 watch with the original unmodified Swiss 6497 movement, the best of the rep dials, sapphire etc. My intention was to buy a genuine E or F series 111 (same movement) with the same painted 'L' dial as the B, C and D series. Then simply swap the movements around and add a rep B series caseback to give a very gen-like franken B001 together with an ultimate Fiddy rep based on a gen movement. The cost of an E or F 111 is probably one of the lowest gen PAMs and all of the outlay is recoverable as the swap can easily be reversed. Your 'new' 001B will be indistinguisable from a gen and your Fiddy will fool mostly everyone. Two PAMs for the price of one, almost. The total cost will certainly be less than building 2 frankens to this standard and will be a better investment - the 111 will hold its value and apart from the rep 1950 nothing more is needed. I haven't done it because I don't really like the larger 1950 style so it didn't go any further. Anyone want my Fiddy?
-
If you will ultimately be striving for accuracy combined with reliability it is best to forget about display-back models. This will allow the use of unmodified Swiss movements and totally accurate casebacks. At least you won't have to be concerned about the rear view of the watch or the internals - this reduces scale of the task but also narrows the field.
-
Can anyone help with removing text on a dial?
PAMman replied to iheartwatches's topic in The Panerai Area
I am assuming that this is a rep Panerai dial. These vary in quality and I have had some where the text was easily removed, even by mistake. Try moistening a 'Q' tip with water and rubbing gently or alternatively try lifting the text off with adhesive tape. I have a couple of 'spoiled' dials where either of these methods will work. However you may not be so lucky. -
I fully agree with you T. It was a collective mistake and was flagged up before anyone bought them. However, in order to help promote the sale of the 48 teeth version (and get your total investment back) may I suggest that you offer a free 60 teeth crown with each 48 teeth one? This way you should reach your 300 target more quickly and use the 60 teeth crowns that may just lie unwanted. This is just an idea that seems to fit with your pricing logic, which is pitched at a level to recoup your total outlay through the sale of the newer crowns. If the buyer of each new crown is really paying for the earlier mistake then it would seem fair to get one of those also. Just a thought which may help and thanks for making these crowns for this community.
-
Completed the survey.
-
Agreed, DSN's first '2-screw' preV cases were terrible with the crown position wrong etc. I think that he did improve them. This looks like his CG and it's his dial, caseback & screw type so it may be his latest attempt. BTW, I modified my own case by using small round files rather than a drill because I was scared than I would mess it up. Round Swiss files may be more amateur than pro but it gets the job done without the drama. Was the ebay seller of the screws UK based?
-
Proper 1:1 preV screws are available from a board member here. They fit the unthreaded lug and the threaded side needs to be drilled to match. BTW, this 201A is DSN's interpretation of the the preV Logo and has many inaccuracies.
-
The 'swan neck' is a spring that places pressure on one side of the regulator needle and the pressure on the other side comes from a small screw. Therefore adjusting the screw moves the regulator in smaller increments than would normally be possible without this system. It's functional and also pretty.
-
A Funny Thing Happened on the way to Leave Feedback
PAMman replied to freddy333's topic in The Rolex Area
If I understand it correctly, Rolex enjoys a greater level of protection, against 'grey' imports into the US, than any other watch brand, with the US customs authorities enthusiastically protecting their market. Am I correct? If so, this is not simply a matter of collecting import duties on behalf of the state but the state is protecting the commercial interests of Rolex US. What the heck is that about? Collecting import taxes at the point of entry is the state's prerogative but to use the state machinery to protect the domestic market of a distributor of a foreign manufactured luxury item is really weird. Was this Dubya -
Great photos - congrats. These really are 'Supereps' but also are thoroughly good watches in their own right. Mine's also a white dial ETA and has both gen rubber and gen leather straps. Best 'out-of-the-box' rep ever that doesn't need any modding.
-
If you were to get a gen Tag, which one would it be?
PAMman replied to webvan's topic in The Tag Heuer Area
I don't really like TAGs at all, but I do like the proper Heuer reissue models - either the Autavia or the hand-wind Carrera (which aren't available new any longer) or the Monaco. The reissue hand-wind Carrera had the same Lemania movement as the Omega Moonwatch and is a real cracker, with only Heuer on the dial, crown and caseback - no TAG. Of the current lineup the answer would be the Monaco but I would look out for either of the other two on the 2nd-hand market. -
Would you sell or have you sold a gen to buy more reps?
PAMman replied to sp12's topic in General Discussion
I haven't sold any gens to buy reps although I really need to sell a reasonably large number of both now. I agree that you shouldn't sell one in order to buy the other - sell the SMP if you don't wear it anymore and buy reps if you want. However, if you think of them as replacements for your SMP you are likely to be disappointed. My modded / franken PAM reps are close to my gens in feel and quality but there are few others that really compare (maybe the SOSF). Today I am wearing my gen Speedy Pro and I wore my gen black SMP for the past few days. There is no way that any rep feels the same as these do. -
I have the non-chrono ETA SOH and IMO the non-chrono is the better of the 2 versions. The Asian 7750 chrono movement really needs to be serviced at the start and there is just more to go wrong - it's really a bit of a lottery. Buy the ETA non-chrono and should have a watch that will give no bother for ages.
-
I wonder when someone will spot the 'Tudor' as a fake.
-
For me it is similar with watches and cars. I can appreciate vintage cars and watches for what they are, but it is the modern classics that I would want to own. Vintage Panerai hold no special attraction for me but the modern classic models (preV, preA and A series) are the most desirable in my view. I understand the relative values and would certainly prefer any preV to a vintage Panerai.
-
A tinted varnish probably would be OK. It wouldn't affect the black but should give you the desired effect on the white text.
-
All G series were L SWISS L and so were a minority of the H series. As far as I can remember the first of the H series which were being flipped on 'Risti, mostly from Asian-based sellers, as BNIB with stamped cards only days or weeks old were a mix of L SWISS L and L SWISS MADE L. This would be typical of Panerai where the series is strictly date / year based rather than a reflection of progressive minor changes throughout production. To get the definitive answer you should post this question on 'Risti, asking whether any owners of H series 000 had L SWISS L dials. I expect that the response will be yes, although a minority. EDIT: Just did a quick search and here's your answer - check out this thread, about 3/4 of the way down. http://www.network54.com/Forum/353391/thre...wly+accquired+0
-
Has anyone any idea where I could source a complete bezel assembly for a vintage (acrylic crystal) MBW / MBK Submariner? Any help would be much appreciated.