infinitime

Please count me in for a black one as well on the group buy!

Thanks a bunch! Much appreciated!

Hi, is there anyway you can post her photobucket link with the corresponding password? Thanks,

Thanks for the follow-up, this thread seems really to have spiral downwards into a needless exchange of insults and childish banter... yes, my question has been answered, mostly from more helpful members who have PM'ed me. Interestingly, the Tag Heuer Link which I ultimately bought, didn't come with a spacer at all! Instead, it using retaining clips, more commonly found on other reps.... a beautiful watch, spacer or no spacer!

Minor repair job... one of the silver-color baton hour markers fell off of the dial on one of my reps.... it appears that the baton was originally attached to the dial with the two "feets" on its back, which "plug in" to two very small holes on the dial, in conjunction with some adhesive. It seems like a simple enough fix, but what do you suggest to be the right type of adhesive? Krazy glue? Elmer's glue? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated !

Thanks Toothdoc! Your instructions were very helpful, the watch is now resting comfortably on my wrist.

Just bought a Tag Heuer Link rep from King... beautiful watch, but I can't figure out how the links on the bracelet detach? There are no visible screws and the little detents on the back of each link seem to be decorative only?

On a related note, can someone tell me how a bracelet on the Link would be adjusted?

I think your exposure is really limited to having the watch confiscated, I have never heard of customs actually prosecuting any receipients. Having said that, if you are concerned, you can always have the watch disassembled, and shipped separately as parts. Customs tend to target completed items, and generally are much more lax on parts, particularly when it is clearly marked as such (even genuine Rolex owners need "refinished" dials and such). This may be more expensive in terms of shipping, but well worth it if you are concerned about an expensive item being confiscated.

i have the black dialed version of this very watch, with the same ETA2892 movement. The watch is extremely accurate, and is usually within 1 minute or so per MONTH, which is very acceptable. I've enjoyed the watch very much, but the screw down crown threading is beginning to stripe. Does anyone know the exact sizing for the stem-tube? I noticed that ofrei.com offers generic screw-down tubes, including some very good quality components. I would like to order a replacement tube assembly, but am not knowledgeable enough about these parts to know what size I should be getting... any suggestions?

Complete noob question from me...I've search high and low on this forum, but can't seem to find any dealer who carries the MBW 1680 model? Does this one accept genuine rolex parts? Can someone please PM me a link to a source for this watch? Thanks!

newbie question... I've seen the term " rehaut " used extensively on this forum, but am not certain as to what it means, can someone explain? Thanks!

Interesting...but why 440? To the best of my recollection, none of the genuine Rolexes use 440, as all contempoary steel Rolexes use 904L, while vintage (pre-1985) models use 316L.... Actually, this was one of the reasons why I think the vintage rolex reps feel more true to the gen.

Is there any truth to the suggestion that MBW cases are in fact, sourced from the same manufacturer of genuine Rolex cases? I understand that the MBW readily accepts genuine parts?

I would say that 316L is more the Chevrolet of stainless steel... given that it is of decent quality and used in many many applications. Given that genuine Seiko 5 watches using 316L for its case can be purchased new for about $35US on Ebay, I don't think the cost of production is particularly high. Further, due to swelling of Chinese steel production over the last couple of years, there has been a drop in the price of steel in general, so I would not be surprised that all the reps are using 316L. I agree though, that it is highly unlikely that any of the rep makers would have access to the machinery for milling 914L grade steel, which is considerably harder.

i didn't exactly get much of a chance to respond, before the second wave of renewed insults.... oh well, it is neither here nor there, and if anyone wanted to hurl insults, it is more a reflection of the speaker than the person at which those types of comments are directed.

alright, this is getting tiresome... while your gesture at an apology was appreciated, it means very little when your subsequent posts go the other way in again provoking an argument, particularly when i have cease to post anything inflamatory. i don't wish to engage in an exchange of insults, particularly when my original post was intended to figure out more about how a rep can be made better. accordingly, i would politely ask that you discontinue any attacks on my integrity. while this may be an open forum, there are still reprucussions from slanderous remarks. as i said earlier, to each his own.

Am now really curious about the spacer on the original...

As I have stated time and again, for some of us, the attraction in collecting reps is based on an appreciation of the forger's craft, and how close one is able to replicate another item. For other's, it is simply about squeezing money out of customers. To each his own I guess... I am just thankful that the dealers which I deal with are more reputable, and at least care to treat their customers with civility.

fortunately, i am not the only one who feels that way about your customer service skills... better quit now, before you take over from Paul as the least credible of dealers... as for the Hamptons and Maybach, i would venture to guess that since you are hawking reps, a more realistic goal for you would be Compton and a Pinto. Good luck with that.

Maybe still a novice, but that certainly doesn't detract from my posting.... In fact, I've purchased five reps so far, from three different dealers on this board... somehow, i doubt that i would buy from an ass like you anytime soon, maybe i'm just "anal" in expecting a mature response to a reasonable question. btw, good response "...go buy an original..." guess that is basically your standard answer when your customers complain about defects in products purchased from you?

Spoken like a true sales guy... trying to build up the hype for a less-than-perfect product... Unlike you, most of us here are enthusists who are interested in seeing constant improvement in the product, rather than trying to fleece the consumer

Alright, I've poured over all the postings on this site, and the consensus seems to be that that LINK and the LINK Chronograph reps are VERY close to the original, particularly in terms of dial text, case and bracelet. In fact, the only noticeable flaws I've found are 1) a slighted non-centered date display; and 2) one of the three o'clock baton markers seem to be crooked (ironically, the only crooked one was on a dealer's website!) Now, I know that the original comes in 2824 and 2892 ETA variants, so the 2824 is correct for this watch, the only concern I have is that the movement spacer in the LINK and the LINK Chronograph reps seem to be rather cheap looking. If you review the pictures, they seem to show a simple brass movement "ring", which surrounds the movement. I have not seem a picture of an genuine with its back off, but i suspect (based on past experience with genuine Tag Heuer watches) that the spacer would more likely be a well-machined piece of steel, as opposed to the cheap stamped brass ring found in the rep.... Does anyone have a picture of the genuine item with the caseback off? As for those who say that it doesn't matter, as it is hidden behind a solid caseback, I would say that it would be a shame to cut corners on such a simple part, when everything else is so close to being perfect. Judging by the more intricately shaped movement spacer in my Franck Muller Conquistador 8005 rep, I can't imagine that it would be that difficult to produce a "proper" looking spacer for the LINK models.

I agree that there should be some restrictions... Firstly, such material bear no relevance to the hobby of watch collecting... Secondly, I am embarrassed to refer this forum to my 14 year old nephew, who is expressing considerable interest in reps. i think that some constraints would not be unreasonable.

Very good suggestions, but if accuracy is important, I would definitely include a FM Conquistador with the ETA 2892 movement, a Cartier Tank Franchise with the correct ETA 2000 movement. In both case, genine dials can be sourced, and both would be near PERFECT. The PAMs and Omegas are nice, but I've yet to find one that a true enthusists would not be able to tell its a fake. The Breitling Navitimer and Avenger Chronographs would also be good choices, as they use movements very similar to the gen, and gen dials can be sourced. I would generally shy away from the Rolexes for two reasons: 1) there is no movement like a gen Rolex movement (unlike many of hte other reps using similar or the same movement as the gen); and 2) Rolex uses 904L steel, which FEELS different in the hand than the more common 316L steel used for our reps (and by 99% of the watch industry)... While these are likely differences that only you would know, the beauty of this hobby is really in appreciating the forger's art, and I would say that the closer they come to the gens, the better.... just my two cents.