Logan

No.. nothing decent.. which is a surprise as its a very nice looking model and would be fairly easy to rep, although not quite accurately due to the movement of course. I'd settle for a well made 7750 based rep.

Mine would be pretty much any Rolex, real or rep. I've owned near enough to ten reps and a couple of genuines and never really worn any for an extended period. The worst was the stainless Daytona, They looked awesome in pictures and even in the showroom, but the rep just fell flat for me. Likewise the genuine GMT Master I had a few years back.. got really excited to own the real thing finally.. but I just felt like an idiot wearing it. Partly because I had a damm near indistinguishable rep sitting in the watch case. The only Rolex I really wear is the Sea Dweller.

"Ceramic" is a pretty broad term.. it can mean everything from the clay based stuff your dinner plates are made from, right thru to the zirconian based types used for bearings, knives and of course watch parts. Quite what our rep ones are made from is anyones guess of course. There have been issues with cracked bezels on the Big Bangs which doesn't seem to happen on the real thing for example.

Very useful, thanks for posting this.

The strap from Josh or Andrew is very very good.. and fits perfectly. Its expensive but well worth it I believe. Its in a completely different league to the Silix strap. (I have both)

Mine has a V crown guard fitted.. and I can tell you its a tough job. The holes on the case are slightly wrong, so you have to file out the holes on the CG to fit, secondly the crown is far to deep so the crown guard does not come close to touching, let along locking the crown. Third the crown tube inner diameter is smaller than any other Pam rep.. so the genuine crowns or the Palp or T crowns do not fit. I finally had to fit a crown tube from a different watch, and a Palp crown to make it all work.

For some reason the crown guards on these are all crap. Mine was the same. Also be careful of the bezel markers, they do come out quite easily, especially the little square ones. I removed mine and re-glued them with JB-Weld.

Spectacular watches.. but they are a bit like Richard Mille, Lange and many other similar hand made brands, you'll never get the movement even vaguely close to the real thing, and the movement is pretty much everything in these watches. Of course that probably means our Chinese friends will be making perfect copies in about 5 years at the present rate of advancement !!

Guys I've been on these boards long enough to know that.. who knows the history of who made the things, but "oem" is as good of a description as any.

Love the JLC.. its a brand thats not been well repped either..

Apart from the crown position I'd be voting genuine.. If its a rep I'm impressed

I had no idea.. makes sense from Rolex's point of view I suppose. How on earth do you remove it though??

The non oem ceramic ones are mostly brushed, so shouldn't be hard to get. I'd be keeping that OEM one safe, its probably worth more than you think already.

The Ceramic version is out guys.. looks a lot better, although its still seconds at 9 (not entirely a bad thing given the issues with that movement). Its on the King Watch site. No pricing yet..

I'm wearing the ultimate planet ocean rep with black bezel and rubber strap at the moment and I'm really loving it. It feels less bulky and much lighter on the rubber compared to the bracelet, and is very comfortable. Out of all of my collection its one of only 2-3 watches that I'd consider buying a gen of. I also have a couple of regular SMP's (elec blue model and 007 closed factory model) and love both, but not as much as the planet ocean. I'm a fairly slim build but I don't find it too large, in fact it feels smaller than a 44mm Panerai.

Buy the blue gasket lubricator, it makes it a whole lot easier to get an even coverage over the o-ring. The key is less grease rather than more. You'll need some extra grease too, its on the same page.

The crown guards and case would be (more) accurate.. if this was a GMT model, but wrong for a regular model.

I think (well hope really) that I figured out why the seconds at 12 has the seemingly useless spacer plate under the dial.. I'm hoping its to allow a dressed up version to be used when making the skeleton dial watches like the Barrichello.. Think something a bit like the fake perlage or geneva strips glued to the back of the early Panerai's or some of the Lange or AP reps. The front of the seconds at 12 movement is just a blank plate so would look terrible. @Dani.. if you've got so much money that you want the watch to priced higher.. well good for you. The rest of us are hoping for a reasonable price, and not a massively marked up Cartel price.

I'm not quite sure why The Zigmeister keeps editing posts and removing information after its been posted. Anyway I kept a copy so here it is. (original text by The Zigmeisterzumba) Genuine ETA 7750 all variants (all) Hour 2.00mm Minute 1.20mm Center Seconds 0.25mm Subdials 0.17mm Old Asian 7750 version all variants(21,600 BPH) Hour 2.00mm Minute 1.20mm Center Seconds 0.25mm Subdials 0.17mm New Asian 7750 (28,800 BPH) Normal ones - NOT the Daytona model (don't have one to measure) Hour 2.00mm Minute 1.20mm Center Seconds 0.20mm Subdial 0.20mm Also note on the New 7750, the center seconds post, is below the top of the minute hand tube. On all other versions of the 7750, the center seconds post is about 1mm above the minute hand tube, not below it. Therefore the center seconds hand on the new 7750's, has an extra long tube on it, to make up this height difference. So not only is the hand smaller in diameter, it's longer as well...

Very.. you need watch maker experience and appropriate tools. Its definitely not something you should attempt as a first step. It involves removing the hands and dial, stripping and cleaning the front part of the movement, graphite treating parts and re-assembling. There are a couple of good write ups on the process and the 7750 movement in general here on the forum.

We've done pretty well so far with the many models of Big Bang, be patient and there's a good chance something will come along. Rumor has it that more full ceramic models are coming soon, so your chance of an all chocolate is probably better that it was..

Unless you know how to strip the movement and do the graphite fix (search it) then you're best to stay away from this model. The failure rate is very very high on the "seconds at six" version of the 7750 movement

@Dani, I agree, but I deliberately didn't post a price guide as we know the dealers all read this too.. no sense giving them even higher expectations than they already have. Its definitely a "Holy Grail" for me too..

This is a pretty good list for newbies to read before asking all the same questions on the site here. For those who don't know, this is from replica watch report which is written by a long term rep collector who was a member of the early boards (and is probably still around I expect)

Genuine Panerai based on non-chrono 7750 with power reserve? I'm looking forward to hearing whether Panerai really do modify anything in the movement or if it's just ETA all the way.. I know which my money is on..