Katerchen Posted October 13, 2009 Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 Please Admins... This deserves to be PINNED into the "Watchmaking Resource Center"!! lol (sorry cant restrain) At least nobody can or will ever be able to tell if this particular watch is a rep or no Even a vintage rolex would look 100% the same after such a lume-job In germany they say "hold your head up - even if the neck smells" *ggg George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeeJay Posted October 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2009 Please Admins... This deserves to be PINNED into the "Watchmaking Resource Center"!! lol (sorry cant restrain) At least nobody can or will ever be able to tell if this particular watch is a rep or no Even a vintage rolex would look 100% the same after such a lume-job In germany they say "hold your head up - even if the neck smells" *ggg George If anything needs pinning, it's the Dudemeister's thread, as he had a much better outcome than my attempt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RWG Technical Posted October 14, 2009 Report Share Posted October 14, 2009 Understand completely on the cost of SL being an issue. The real issue is that SL and what you are using now have no relationship. Even if you produce good results, you won't be able to transfer that experience to using SL. Given that there are no lumer's in the EU, and with your artistic background...a kit of SL, along with practice, may well pay off in the end... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanikai Posted October 14, 2009 Report Share Posted October 14, 2009 Understand completely on the cost of SL being an issue. The real issue is that SL and what you are using now have no relationship. Even if you produce good results, you won't be able to transfer that experience to using SL. Given that there are no lumer's in the EU, and with your artistic background...a kit of SL, along with practice, may well pay off in the end... Great example of the #1 encouraging others to "learn", it's what this community is all about !!! your character and ethics will always be #1 in our book ZM !! AC Lani Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeeJay Posted October 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2009 Understand completely on the cost of SL being an issue. The real issue is that SL and what you are using now have no relationship. Even if you produce good results, you won't be able to transfer that experience to using SL. Given that there are no lumer's in the EU, and with your artistic background...a kit of SL, along with practice, may well pay off in the end... Is it a very different medium to work with, rather than simply being 'a smoother paint'? Did I once read that you said you used a palate knife for lume work rather than a brush, or am I thinking of something else? Thanks again for the feedback and encouragement, it's much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dudemeister Posted October 14, 2009 Report Share Posted October 14, 2009 TJ, I tried both the "good" stuff and after market stuff. The AF Swizerland lume powder is supposed to be SuperLuminova. I doubt it, but that's how it's marketed. The powder grain is superfine, and the mix it creates is very smooth and easy to apply. You can get it into the tiniest corners. I used an oiling pike as well as a sharpened toothpick. My problem was the relatively week lume. The other Glow-in-the-dark stuff I bought is avalable in different grains. The finest stuff they offer has 10-20 micron particles, which to my untrained eye (as if I could actually see that) results in a paste that is just as smooth as the AFS product. So give their stuff a try (get the finest grain Ultra Green V10), and work with it. I think that you'll find that the base binder (the clear paint you mix the powder in) will probably make more of a difference than the powder itself as far as consistency and ease of application. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeeJay Posted October 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2009 TJ, I tried both the "good" stuff and after market stuff. The AF Swizerland lume powder is supposed to be SuperLuminova. I doubt it, but that's how it's marketed. The powder grain is superfine, and the mix it creates is very smooth and easy to apply. You can get it into the tiniest corners. I used an oiling pike as well as a sharpened toothpick. My problem was the relatively week lume. The other Glow-in-the-dark stuff I bought is avalable in different grains. The finest stuff they offer has 10-20 micron particles, which to my untrained eye (as if I could actually see that) results in a paste that is just as smooth as the AFS product. So give their stuff a try (get the finest grain Ultra Green V10), and work with it. I think that you'll find that the base binder (the clear paint you mix the powder in) will probably make more of a difference than the powder itself as far as consistency and ease of application. Good luck. Thanks for the suggestion, I'll certainly look into it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RWG Technical Posted October 14, 2009 Report Share Posted October 14, 2009 Being an artist as well, the best explaination I can offer is this: You may be a great painter and skilled with Acrylics, moving over to oils you have to start all over again. Same if your an oil painter, moving over to acrylic, you have to start all over again. The skill set from one is not transferable to the other. I use oilers for the lume application, a good mixture of lume is the consistancy of snot, on a cold canadian winter's day playing hockey... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeeJay Posted October 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2009 Being an artist as well, the best explaination I can offer is this: You may be a great painter and skilled with Acrylics, moving over to oils you have to start all over again. Same if your an oil painter, moving over to acrylic, you have to start all over again. The skill set from one is not transferable to the other. I use oilers for the lume application, a good mixture of lume is the consistancy of snot, on a cold canadian winter's day playing hockey... I have to admit, I've never actually tried using oils for painting, I never could get to grips with water color, and my skills with acrylics is 'limited', to say the least... What I really need to try my hand at, is tattooing... 100% concentration required, and almost no margin for error (I would say 0%, but sometimes, things can be 'fixable') That was the mindset I tried to have when working on my dial So consistency wise, we're talking something like hairgel? More viscous than water, but not as solidified as Swarfega? Thanks for the advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dudemeister Posted October 14, 2009 Report Share Posted October 14, 2009 I use oilers for the lume application, a good mixture of lume is the consistancy of snot, on a cold canadian winter's day playing hockey... You sure that's not the consistency of coagulating blood on the hockey player's nose after a nice little fight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stallonepanerai Posted November 6, 2009 Report Share Posted November 6, 2009 where would I get some superlume from? anyplace local? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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