highoeyazmuhudee Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 Hey guys I came across a WM9v1 and was wondering what mods this puppy needs. The crown looks great, nice sharp teeth and looks to be correct width (better than the euromariner crown) CGs need doing The dial print is kind of faint looking so thats gotta go, WM9v2 w/superlume on hand with matching hands rehaut has engraving, but I dont trust myself to smooth it off, engraving isn't that bad. Crystal is nice and clear but the date mag kind of sucks, so Clarks 295 with C gasket coming in. bezel insert print is kind of fat, bezel teeth are kind of shallow SO WM9v2 bezel ring, retaining ring and GENUINE insert on hand Noob bracelet, WM9v1 clasp or noob clasp.... hmmm have both. Which to use? Date wheel print is kind of thin, how's it compare to the noob? should I sawp for a noob date overlay instead or is the thin datewheel print better? Did I miss anything you guys can recommend or would change from my initial recipe? thanks PIC: LEFT: EUROMARINER w/wm9v2 bezelring and gen insert / RIGHT: WM9v1 fully stock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
By-Tor Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 Why would you change the bracelet as the SELs are the best ever done on a Sub replica? I recall the clasp coronet is perfect on v1 as well. I actually installed the v1 SELs on my v2. They're SO much better. I would just do the crown guards and live with it. I loved the "flat S" on my v1. Such a great Sub... the only reason I got v2 was the lume. This was mine. Loved it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highoeyazmuhudee Posted November 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 They are pretty nice, it's just the solid mid links as an inaccuracy that bothers me personally. And the dial print is too faint and not SL'd, I just cant decide if the datewheel print is good or not. i.e too thin. thats a nice one ya got there by-tor, how do you find the stock cyclops on yours? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vlydog Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 I would take the V1 SELs if you are not going to use them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gplracer Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 It is interesting that you posted this. I had a BKmariner and I upgraded to the gen construction Euromariner case. This was before BK had the WM9. Yesterday I just upgraded that to a WM9 v2 dial and hand set. I love the glow of the super luminova. I am very happy with this watch. A while back I got a watch material pearl as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highoeyazmuhudee Posted November 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 Oh yeah, anyone know how to remedy a VERY stiff turning bezel? replace the click spring or bend it? or something more sinister? this wm9 subs bezel doesnt turn very well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bklm1234 Posted November 13, 2009 Report Share Posted November 13, 2009 on the stiff turning bezel, if the clicking is loud, the stiffness is most likely the click wire being too bent. Just straighten the click wire some. If clicking is soft, the fit between the bezel and the retaining ring might be the problem. Check if the bezel is bent/warped. It's hard to flatten a bent/warped sub bezel though. The spring plate can be another reason if the clicking is soft. Check if it's bent/warped. Also you can sand it thinner. -bk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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