First project - want to build explorer 1016

[LordByron]

I'm about to start my first watchmaking project and I'm about to start buying parts. I've learned a lot from reading past topics here and I've seen some great watches made by the members here.

I'd like to make an explorer 1016. I want to use a genuine Rolex case for this.I have a few quick questions:

Am I right in thinking the datejust 162XX cases are the best basis for a project like this?

Is ebay the best place to pick them up, or are there any other good sources?

What would be a reasonable price for a case/crystal/crown these days? They seem to have gone up in price since a few years ago.

Once I have a good case, I'm going to get a movement adapter for a 2824-2, then a dial from yukiwatch or ebay, then finally some tudor hands to fit the eta movement. I'm not sure if I have the skill to fit a new bezel/crystal, but i'll see how things go.

many thanks for any help or advice.

[Clockpilot]

I went a different direction. I bought a Tudor Prince. The case had the lug holes and was marked as a Rolex oyster case. The Tudor movement to me was better than fitting an ETA. Istill need to find a Tudor minute hand. The dial was supposed to be a gen from bay but probaably a repaint. I had to remove the feet. I think it worked well. I need to relime one of the indicies now.

It looks great and is somewhat a franken.

HT

[lhooq]

M'lud: I'm presently working on two 1016 projects, with a lot of help from ChiMan12 and jmb. The first is based on a 1601 Datejust, while the second starts out with a 16203. The 162xx franken is a tried-and-true method, so you can be assured of having a very nice 1016-alike in the end. The 1601 build may have some surprises in store, but -based on discussions with my collaborators- there shouldn't be any major problems. (Fingers crossed!) I believe the older Datejust can be just as good a 1016 rep, but there is a higher level of uncertainty right now.

There's a 16234 on eBay that's selling for $210 OBO, though you'll have to find your own bezel and crystal. Generally, 162xx cases have been selling for $200-400 on eBay in recent months. A crystal is $5.25 from Clark's, while a gen wil cost $150-250, depending on whether you get a modern Tropic 22 or a Superdome. (Neither crystal is often listed for sale or auction.) I spent $40 for a gen crown/tube, but if you're patient and lucky, you could just as easily get 3 for $15. But make sure you're buying the right ones! The crown/tube of newer Datejusts are incompatible with older models.

Alternatively, a complete 1016 case set from Yuki is $400-450, but none has been reviewed on the rep forums. I believe Brightlight will be the first to give it a try, so that'll be a post to watch out for.

Stilty can help you out with the movement adapter. Yuki makes the best 1016 dial available, other than the odd rarity on eBay. (The ones currently listed are a bit funny-looking and cost nearly as much as Yuki's, so don't bother.) As for hands, Jojo35 may still be selling his genuine vintage Tudor Sub set for $350. If that's too much for you, you could go with Yuki ($10) or Clark ($15), if he has any in stock. Mk II Watches used to sell Mercedes hands that were supposedly very good. Unfortunately, 1) they cost over $40 2) the hour hand is longer than most, and 3) I'm unable to find Mk II's parts page on their website.

[Brightight]

Just to add to LHOOQ's comments, yes I am indeed about to build a 1016 using Yuki's case. I found the 162xx cases few and far between on ebay, expensive, and those that were available did not have the bezel. A smooth bezel on ebay (which needs to be modified to fit over the gen crystal) is around $250 - $300. Fitting a new bezel/crystal is simple, but you will need a crystal press (pretty cheap on ebay). I took the view that by the time I obtained a case and bezel from ebay, drilled out the lug holes, changed the crystal, modded the bezel, I was looking at costs in excess of the Yuki case and a couple of operations that could go badly wrong! Also if I am lucky enough to pick up a gen 1570 movement in the future, it will slot straight into the Yuki case, the gen 16xxx DJ cases take the 3035 movement I believe. Yuki also sells the ETA adaptor for their case.

I'm expecting my case to arrive around the end of the month/beginning of August so I will know more then.

[automatico]

I made a '1016' out of parts a year and a half ago and here is what it cost (from memory, but close):

Parts:

16220 case...$200 iirc (it shows a lot of small scratches and has a little dent in the back but it's just fine because it makes it look more like a genuine 1016)

lug holes drilled out for 1016 springbars

original case tube and crown that came with case

aft/mkt submariner springbars $10 (they have to be shortened and the ends polished)

gaskets $10+/-

26 jewel hack 1520 rolex movement (cleaned, new stem, and mainspring...$750 for mvt, $15 for ms, $4 for stem)

dial from some forgotten guy in China for about $100 (has SINGER on the back and precise fitting dial feet but it is 100% replica...no lume much at all after 20 minutes in the dark, same as a 30 year old genuine)

aft/mkt hands $15

1016 spec (more or less) bezel $35 iirc from the same guy who supplied the dial (rolex 22 spec crystals have thicker sidewall and top than DJ)

A hogged out DJ bezel will work but iirc they are smaller OD than a 1016 bezel.

GS PA464-64C crystal $10+/- (same as rolex 22 and better than most internet mystery crystals)

Total parts $1100 to $1150

Subtract around $650 for using Eta 2846 etc.

Bracelet of choice...$20 to $400.

Labor more or less:

clean/oil mvt $100

machine bezel to fit the crystal $25

drill lug holes $25

put it all together $25

Prices are a guess as I did it myself.

Any questions...send a PM.

[LordByron]

Many thanks for all the helpful replies, the information is much appreciated. I'll start buying up parts and report back here when I have some more questions. I'll also keep an eye out for any info from Brightight about Yuki's cases.

[LordByron]

I went a different direction. I bought a Tudor Prince. The case had the lug holes and was marked as a Rolex oyster case. The Tudor movement to me was better than fitting an ETA. Istill need to find a Tudor minute hand. The dial was supposed to be a gen from bay but probaably a repaint. I had to remove the feet. I think it worked well. I need to relime one of the indicies now.

It looks great and is somewhat a franken.

HT

Hi Clockpilot,

was this a 34mm case or one of the larger ones? I'm curious which exact model you used as a base

[Clockpilot]

Hi Clockpilot,

was this a 34mm case or one of the larger ones? I'm curious which exact model you used as a base

It was a prince date model. One of the smaller guys. I was mistaken in that it does not have lug holes drilled. I need to do that. Who can drill holes?

Send me your email and I can send you some crappy photos I just took.

I also have a nice one repaustria put together a few years ago with a 40 year hold hand wind movement.

Thanks

H