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Best way to open the caseback of a watch?


Prsist

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that's tough to answer...i'd say it works on 90% of my pieces...would never use it to open a Seiko Diver - for example - as that watch takes dynamite to open the caseback...

R-

I have never had a caseback not open with the ball including genuine Omega Seamasters and Longines divers. Its important you remove the bracelet to get a good grip on the watch case.

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Well I open maybe 20+ various screw backs a day, and if I was depending on sticky balls I would see maybe 1/2 opened! (maybe less)

The best alternative to a Rolex set- http://watchbitz.com.au/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=50 that I have found,

is the multi prong tool-

http://watchbitz.com.au/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=49

however it needs to be used with some form of case holder like-

http://watchbitz.com.au/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=235

and these must really be bench mounted for decent control.

There are a few occasions when none of the above has enough grunt, and I then use an LG Openall-

http://www.jewelerssupplies.com/LG-Openall-Waterproof-Case-Wrench.html

and sometimes even need to use heat as well to open really stubborn case backs.

Some divers watches,...where the owner has noticed a "loose" case back whilst underwater and under pressure, and screwed it back up whilst at depth, can prove a real challenge!

However the most important consideration, is how one reseals the case back. And if you think for one moment that a sticky ball will apply enough torque to snug that case back down, and make it fit for immersion underwater, I would suggest a lengthy examination of articles pertaining to salvaging flooded watches is in order.

There is no way a sticky ball can nip up a case back and make it PERMANENTLY waterproofed!

EVEN if a pressure test offers a positive result, it will only take a knock, or even a motion of the arm whilst under pressure underwater, for the case back to loosen enough to allow water in.

No Ifs, no buts, no maybes.

Been there, done that.

Offshore

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@CC,

I have tried to use the Jaxa....I think some of them are not supplied with very good "teeth" to suit Rolex...and I also think most users believe they can hand hold these things and unscrew the case backs.

There is nothing like having a solidly mounted case press and being able to use two hands to steady and guide the tool.

As a tip, ...I have mounted my case press and a couple of vices, on a seperate piece of ply, about 18" square.

When I need these tools, I just place it on my bench top, and the friction contact is enough to hold enough grip to use these tools or the vices.

Then when finished it goes back on the floor, out of the way.

I do think the multi prong tool gives better "feel" and certainly allows much more grunt.

I 1st saw these in China last year, not very common in the West, but they are the choice of watch repairers in the East, and they really are only a few $$ in the scheme of things....everyone curses loudly when they mark up their caseback, I reckon these are cheap insurance!

O/S

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I just want to tinker with a couple low end reps. I never wear a rep in the water, as I have a dedicated diver watch for aquatic adventures. I want to familiarize myself with the workings of watches. Perhaps adjust a fast/slow watch.

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@Prsist,For slotted case backs, the crab claw-

http://watchbitz.com.au/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=108

is my weapon of choice.

I probably open 80% of all watches using one of these.

As soon as we move away from the slotted style to Rolex, Breitling, some Omega, I would opt for the multi prong, and then finally turn to the LG when all else fails.

Its a bit ironic that the most used tool is the cheapest by far, and a serious investment is required in a tool which sees very little work.

Also the time to set up to use a tool like the LG is extensive, so there is the added cost in time for the professional repairer.

O/S

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  • 3 weeks later...

Narikaa sent me a "sticky ball" some years ago. It works well - like magic, really. It has an inflation valve - make sure that it is pumped up. It won't work if deflated.

BTW - it isn't sticky. Just high friction material.

The only drawback is that I doubt although it will open most casebacks, I doubt that it has enough grip to tighten one enough to give a waterproof seal. I once replaced a Panerai caseback using only the ball. Then I applied the Panerai caseback tool - and it easily tightened it still further.

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