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BCE - Rhodium from Andrew! Love it (early review)


JuniorNA

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Hey guys, I normally don't go for BCE's...I'm a SA guy, and I love SOSF's...but with this rhodium dial, i could not pass it up. It looks very classy and I really enjoy the contrast with Rhodium and Black leather...I couldnt pass this up. It is a V3 and i really have no complaints. I havent really had time to inspect it. I just opened it up, took a few pics and posted on here...but i'm going to do a full inspection and report back.

The only thing i noticed is the bezel is a "little" loose, and i mean to the 100th degree. I only notice it when i turn the bezel all the way around from 12 o clock to 12 o clock...but it could just be one of the bezel screws on the side. The Lume sticks are great, and the seconds marker does sit flush at 12 o clock which is a common issue sometimes.

I see no issue on the leather band, except it does say 24-20 on the longer one, which is an obvious rep misprint, but no one will see that unless i take the watch off.

Overall i love it, and I don't have a classy watch like this, I have very dark dials on all my watches and I like the color rhodium.

The pictures i provide show the dial being a little dark, but in person it's much lighter.

When i have more time, i'll do a better review of my findings and the pro's and con's of this build.

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post-18307-094785600 1284737787.jpg

post-18307-086986400 1284737798.jpg

Edited by JuniorNA
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Congrats on your purchase! The rhodium dial reminds of Rollie YM (which is my most favorite watch btw).

I wish there is a commonly understood standards on BCE versions. Because the v3 you have is actually a v4 in my book. I tell this by looking at the bezel markers. Nonetheless, it's still a nice piece.

In response to your comment on loose bezel. On a rep BCE, the only real bezel screws are the ones holding the bezel tabs. All other (domed head screws) are faux screws. I don't think by adjusting the tab screws will make the bezel any tighter unfortunately. One of the ways to make the bezel tighter is to find a way to rise the bezel ratchet ring. This would involve removing the bezel from the case. Some other members have tried tooth floss method, you can certainly check this out as well. Good luck!

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Congrats on your purchase! The rhodium dial reminds of Rollie YM (which is my most favorite watch btw).

I wish there is a commonly understood standards on BCE versions. Because the v3 you have is actually a v4 in my book. I tell this by looking at the bezel markers. Nonetheless, it's still a nice piece.

In response to your comment on loose bezel. On a rep BCE, the only real bezel screws are the ones holding the bezel tabs. All other (domed head screws) are faux screws. I don't think by adjusting the tab screws will make the bezel any tighter unfortunately. One of the ways to make the bezel tighter is to find a way to rise the bezel ratchet ring. This would involve removing the bezel from the case. Some other members have tried tooth floss method, you can certainly check this out as well. Good luck!

As i was typing that, I realized that the screws are probably/most likely just for show. And i remember my friend trying to remove the bezel by trying to unscrew the bezel screws and most of them didnt even unscrew or come out. I'll have to search the tooth floss method. I'm not too too worried about it, but i do use the bezel a lot when I go to lunch or break and I dont want to end up breaking the bezel or over-using it because it was not on tight to begin with.

Can you explain your V4 theory vs. the V3 ? Are the bezel markers really bad in your opinion? Does anything stand out that would lead you to believe it's a bad rep? I think the datefont is decent, better than my skyland avenger, and better than my brothers older version of Andrews BCE that he purchased a few years ago.

Thanks for all the help and constructive criticism. I'm open to all reviews and thoughts !

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In my experience, as of now, there are 4 versions of this watch. You can tell them apart by such:

V1: 60-click bezel, slightly thicker than V2, no forth marker after the 10 on the top sub dial, incorrect font on the date wheel, nice and deep bezel markers.

V2: 120-click bezel, slightly thinner case, four markers between 10 and 15 on the top sub dial, incorrect font on the dw, correct but not as deep bezel markers and tab numbers. The locations of the bezel makers are close to gen.

V3: Same look and feel as V2 except it has correct font on the dw. However, please do note that I said look and feel. Most dealers sell these as V2 + corrected dw.

V4: Most dealers sell this as V3. I'm not sure how many clicks on the bezel. Although the bezel markers are nice and deep which more gen like, all the markers are more closer to the outer edge of the bezel than gen.

From what I read somewhere, V1 and V4 are made by the same factory whereas V2 and V3 are made by a different factory.

My experience on the bezel tells me V2 BCE is probably the best of the bunch, but you will have to fix the font on the dw. Breitling dw is hard to find. The V3 is good too, if you are never going to try to install gen bezel, you should go with a V3.

V4 are nice in a lot of ways. I especially like the deep bezel markers. To a lot of people, they won't know the difference.

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In my experience, as of now, there are 4 versions of this watch. You can tell them apart by such:

V1: 60-click bezel, slightly thicker than V2, no forth marker after the 10 on the top sub dial, incorrect font on the date wheel, nice and deep bezel markers.

V2: 120-click bezel, slightly thinner case, four markers between 10 and 15 on the top sub dial, incorrect font on the dw, correct but not as deep bezel markers and tab numbers. The locations of the bezel makers are close to gen.

V3: Same look and feel as V2 except it has correct font on the dw. However, please do note that I said look and feel. Most dealers sell these as V2 + corrected dw.

V4: Most dealers sell this as V3. I'm not sure how many clicks on the bezel. Although the bezel markers are nice and deep which more gen like, all the markers are more closer to the outer edge of the bezel than gen.

From what I read somewhere, V1 and V4 are made by the same factory whereas V2 and V3 are made by a different factory.

My experience on the bezel tells me V2 BCE is probably the best of the bunch, but you will have to fix the font on the dw. Breitling dw is hard to find. The V3 is good too, if you are never going to try to install gen bezel, you should go with a V3.

V4 are nice in a lot of ways. I especially like the deep bezel markers. To a lot of people, they won't know the difference.

I see. That's very helpful. So in your experience, you think this one is a V4 ?

How do the stick markers, and subdial markers look to you? I also noticed the date font in the dw is better than my skyland avenger. They are not squooshed together (fontwise) and it does not look recessed in anyway. I especially like the BCW, because the less lume dots, the less errors. My SOSF (blue dial) had the large lume dots and it was so obvious that it was a rep because each and every lume dot had drippage out of the lume dot ring. The lume dots were uneven,and some of them even dripped onto the dial. It was a very early version of the SOSF rep, didnt even have AR coating, and it was dirt cheap...but i've learned a lot from getting that watch.

How do you rate this rep when looking at the subdials, bezel markers, length of minute/hour hand, and datefont/datewheel?

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I think it's a v4. It's definitely not a v1, v2 or v3. The stick markers on yours look good. Typically, the lume is not evenly applied to these stick markers on a rep. The sub dial looks good too. Sometimes, the silver edges on the sub dials are not even or dial paint coming off around these edges.

I'll say over all, the watch is a good rep. If this watch was mine, I would wear it the way it is with serviced movement. Don't think about the brand or particular model, just treat it as a nice watch for your outfit. If some day, I run across a gen dial, I will have the rep dial replaced. The thing is, they can never make the rep dial looks like gen. It's just not possible. Gen dial like this is hard to find. I have only seen one for sale (I should have jumped on it, but I didn't), it was sold for $400. If I can get some gen bezel tabs, I will have the rep bezel tabs replaced as well.

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I checked out all parts of this piece compared to a Gen, and bezel is a little off, but it's even passable to people that know a lot of about B-ling, but prob won't pass at an AD, actually it def. won't pass at an AD

Here is what i found on the sub dial marker (the 12 o clock sub)for Minutes

It has a 30 - 10 - 20 . I have to compare it to a gen model but here is what this specific piece has.

30 on top,

then 3 dashes,

then a larger 4th dash representing 5 minutes

then 3 dashes

then a 10

then 4 dashes

then a Larger dash representing 15

then 3 dashes

then a 20

then 3 dashes

then a larger dash representing 25

then 3 dashes

then a 30

So it goes like this.

30

-

-

-

--- (Longer represents 5)

-

-

-

10

-

-

-

-

--- (Longer dash represents 15)

-

-

-

20

-

-

-

--- (Longer represents 25)

-

-

-

30

There is an extra dash between the 10 and 15 minute mark.

and since there is only 3 dashes between 5 and 10, i'm assuming that the 10 counts for 9 and 10. then after 10 is 4 dashes then a longer dask representing 15.

So if you want to time 10 minutes...you wont know because there are only 7 dashes between 30 and 10.

Make sense?

Edited by JuniorNA
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yep and mine has 4 dashes between 10 and 15 and the rest are 3 dashes. so it's exactly like that one.

I found 1 issue, and it might just be my OCD, but i feel the bezel is a little loose and the bezel does not sit at 12 perfectly. One click and it's to much over 12, really a half click would do it, and even though its barely noticable, i notice it and I can tell it's not perfect at 12, but if i wanted perfection i should have paid 4500$ for it, lol

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This is how I do it. I take the bezel tabs off first, then I use a thin stainless steel ruler. Since those round head bezel screws are for the looks, they don't really hold the bezel down (unlike gen). However, you might not be able to remove the v4 bezel without destroying the bezel. If this is the case, don't do it.

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This is what the watch looks like after the bezel is removed.

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This is what the bezel ratchet ring looks like.

IMG_0220.jpg

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I was able to get the bezel off like you and decided to stop there since it was late. So I put everything back but the 30 marker won't screw back in. Either the thread is damaged or screw is short bc no matter method I use it won't stay seated. Keeps falling.out. all others r fine. Maybe its crazy glue time.!!) lol

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yes i jiggled the screw, took it out, back in, and tried again. it just keeps spinning. Either it's just not catching on the thread, or when it popped off it was only there for show and cannot be screwed back. I put a little bit of lock tight on the screw and screwed it in that way, and so far its staying. I just can't unscrew it ever again :)

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