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Lamania or A 7750 for PN Daytona Min@9


JimmyGee

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Lamania or A7750? Which is the better Movement for a PN DAYTONA 6239, 6241, 6263 or & 6265, please. Thanks.

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what do you mean by better?

more accurate looking or reliable movement?

because the lemania movement is more reliable. Also, it looks more subdial placement wise. however, it is bi-compax.

The A7750 isn't that bad either. Although you do have to remove the automatic winding components and the subdials are more spaced out.

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what do you mean by better?

more accurate looking or reliable movement?

because the lemania movement is more reliable. Also, it looks more subdial placement wise. however, it is bi-compax.

The A7750 isn't that bad either. Although you do have to remove the automatic winding components and the subdials are more spaced out.

Thank you. Sorry, I meant Reliable. It's not a question of $ as the prices for the watches are very close.

I take it that you mean that the Lemania looks more "accurate" subdial placement wise?, but only has 2 of the 3 sub-dials that work?

I'm a Newb, but try to be self sufficient, so I did a Google of "bi-compax" but it only lead me to some other unhelpful Watch Forum, filled with the usual unhelpful so-called funny sarcasm. Thankfully our Forum does not seem to have these characters.

"Bi" meaning "two" I assumed you could only mean that 2 of the 3 sub-dials worked. I wonder which one is "fixed"? Probably @6?

A a side note: I now have 7 so-called PN Daytona Watches and only 2 are close to accurate Reps of the Gen. The other 5 (bought when I was an even BIGGER Newb, than I am now) are total "jokes". Close to half of these five watches were not even close to the watches that were pictured and what I had ordered and paid for.

Once again thank you for your helpful reply. Much appreciated.

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If you're going with the Sea-Gull ST19 -aka "Lemania"- that means you're not going for a DW Daytona. You have to realize that DW's 7750s are the best vintage Daytonas you can buy for less than $1000. Yes, the subdial spacing is off (by <0.5mm), but it is a more accurate rep than what the cartels sell in almost every other way. The asymmetrical pusher layout (i.e. reset pusher is farther from the crown than the start/stop) is the most noticeable feature, but it's not just that. For a 'budget' case, the dimensions of DW's 6239 and 6263 are remarkably close to gen, and they will accept gen parts with little or no modifications required.

I suppose you could choose the ST19-based rep if reliability were all-important, but there's no reason why the 7750 can't be made to last. You could have the movement serviced immediately, or you could have have a watchsmith remove the auto-wind gears, as praetor suggested. I have one rep with a modified 7750 (16 months) and one with a stock movement (9 months). Neither has failed yet.

Bi-compax means the ST19 has two functional subdials. It has no hour counter at 6, so the one on the cartel rep is a dummy.

Please post a picture of your 7 Daytonas! Give everyone a chance to take apart the bad ones! :)

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If you're going with the Sea-Gull ST19 -aka "Lemania"- that means you're not going for a DW Daytona. You have to realize that DW's 7750s are the best vintage Daytonas you can buy for less than $1000. Yes, the subdial spacing is off (by <0.5mm), but it is a more accurate rep than what the cartels sell in almost every other way. The asymmetrical pusher layout (i.e. reset pusher is farther from the crown than the start/stop) is the most noticeable feature, but it's not just that. For a 'budget' case, the dimensions of DW's 6239 and 6263 are remarkably close to gen, and they will accept gen parts with little or no modifications required.

complete agree,

let me tell you : all my cosmographs are powered with the A7750 type series, this Lemania's concept with frozen hand at 6. bothers me seriously.

But now, these little 0.5mm starts to bother me too... :g:

What to do ? a V72 is to much expensive and unreliable, if something collapse inside, no much more parts...

I reported my frustration building 1675. But with 1655 engraved on the cases, o.k doesn't bother me seriously.

But now, these 1655 engravings instead of 1675 starts to bother me too... :g:

:lol:

Edited by Rolexaddict
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You should check out DW's website :whistling:

Thank you. Sure have checked DW out, and that is where I got my 2: 6239's. One come directly from DW's resent listings on our Forum and the other via his eBay Site, which had a "Shear Time" dial. Sent it to Domi to change the dial but sent him (didn't know better at the time) a ROC dial. David sold me the RC Dial and I sent it to Domi, who also inserted a Swiss Movement and Bigger Crown. Sure, now I have 2 models that look exactly the same, but 2 are better than none!! :clap: As you can imagine I spent quite a few $, and so to keep "my monkey" off my back, I WAS looking to buy the other 3 models cheaper in price and quality, but having read all your replies, I now know that I should save a little and pay more and get much better quality from David. Thanks Guys.

A few days later: Second thoughts: "Stuff My Monkey" I'll get what I want and a New Monkey as well. :D

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If you're going with the Sea-Gull ST19 -aka "Lemania"- that means you're not going for a DW Daytona. You have to realize that DW's 7750s are the best vintage Daytonas you can buy for less than $1000. Yes, the subdial spacing is off (by <0.5mm), but it is a more accurate rep than what the cartels sell in almost every other way. The asymmetrical pusher layout (i.e. reset pusher is farther from the crown than the start/stop) is the most noticeable feature, but it's not just that. For a 'budget' case, the dimensions of DW's 6239 and 6263 are remarkably close to gen, and they will accept gen parts with little or no modifications required.

I suppose you could choose the ST19-based rep if reliability were all-important, but there's no reason why the 7750 can't be made to last. You could have the movement serviced immediately, or you could have have a watchsmith remove the auto-wind gears, as praetor suggested. I have one rep with a modified 7750 (16 months) and one with a stock movement (9 months). Neither has failed yet.

Bi-compax means the ST19 has two functional subdials. It has no hour counter at 6, so the one on the cartel rep is a dummy.

Please post a picture of your 7 Daytonas! Give everyone a chance to take apart the bad ones! :)

Hi LHOOQ. Once again you come to my rescue with another very informative post. You're "the man" (on another Tread) that gave me all the fine details that differentiated the 4 most recognized PN Models and you pointed me to DW. I took your advice and now I have 2 fantastic DW 6239's.

You say: "For a 'budget' case, the dimensions of DW's 6239 and 6263 are remarkably close to gen, and they will accept gen parts with little or no modifications required". Does this imply that 6265 does not come in that category?

Thanks to you guys, I'm gonna stick with David for all my PN's and get them serviced right away. I will take photos of all six of my PN's over the Weekend and post them here, or somewhere else, if you think it more appropriate? (Sorry, I did say 7, but I only have 6) :blush:

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You say: "For a 'budget' case, the dimensions of DW's 6239 and 6263 are remarkably close to gen, and they will accept gen parts with little or no modifications required". Does this imply that 6265 does not come in that category?

Sorry for not being clearer. I was using DW 6239 and DW 6263 as shorthand for his two basic case types. Aside from the engraved reference number, a 6241 or 6265 are just a bezel swap away.

In other words, the accuracy and quality of the DW 6265 are on par with his 6263.

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complete agree,

let me tell you : all my cosmographs are powered with the A7750 type series, this Lemania's concept with frozen hand at 6. bothers me seriously.

But now, these little 0.5mm starts to bother me too... :g:

What to do ? a V72 is to much expensive and unreliable, if something collapse inside, no much more parts...

I reported my frustration building 1675. But with 1655 engraved on the cases, o.k doesn't bother me seriously.

But now, these 1655 engravings instead of 1675 starts to bother me too... :g:

:lol:

OK It makes sense, I suppose, :unsure: but would be better if I knew what you were talking about :drive1: so I would know where to go go next :confused: Just Joking..... I very much appreciate what you have written, thank you! :victory:

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Please post a picture of your 7 Daytonas! Give everyone a chance to take apart the bad ones! :)

Sorry, I have taken photos but they are plain awful. Should I post some of them anyway? or should I try taking photos again in the house because the ones I took today were taken outdoors in bright sunshine and they look awful? My digital camera is 12 years old. I also have an SLR Camera with lenses, filters and all the works but it so old, that I must have bought it when I was 2 years old. This camera has a fit each time I mention digit. Maybe it's time to invest in a digital SLR ???? Don't want to spend a fortune as all I'll be photographing are watches and my dogs. Is there a section to post our pets photos and not watches? ;)

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It is the photographer that makes good pictures, not the camera.

Most of my pics are taken with a 12 year old 4MP point-&-shoot camera, certainly far from state-of-the-art or even modern standards, yet, with a bit of experience (& LOTS of practice), I seem to do ok

1601benz0062__-2_tonemapped1.jpg

1st, read your camera manual (if you do not have it, you can most likely find 1 via google). Then, read Pugwash's pinned tutorials in the Photography forums.

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It is the photographer that makes good pictures, not the camera.

Most of my pics are taken with a 12 year old 4MP point-&-shoot camera, certainly far from state-of-the-art or even modern standards, yet, with a bit of experience (& LOTS of practice), I seem to do ok

1st, read your camera manual (if you do not have it, you can most likely find 1 via google). Then, read Pugwash's pinned tutorials in the Photography forums.

Yes, thank you. Your photo speaks for it's self. I was using my wife's Digital Camera and never bothered to read the Manual and when I did, discovered amazing things. I have a Pre Digital SLR with the works and a 2 year photography course, but have not upgraded to Digital SLR. But as you rightly say it's "not the camera". Thanks for referring me to Pugwash. Remember reading it when I first joined but couldn't remember where to find his fantastic post. OK, Won't be too long now before the 6 versions of PN's are posted for all to pick to pieces. :blush:

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Looking for to them. In the meantime, here is an old pic of a few of mine to inspire you

Nice One! Thank you. Been collecting Pine Cones, Oyster Shells and anything else to add to my next lot of pictures to make them interesting. I hope.

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Please post a picture of your 7 Daytonas! Give everyone a chance to take apart the bad ones! :)

OK, Here goes:

Promise, my next lot of Photos will be better, I hope!

Just wanted 1 PN, preferably a 6239 and ended up with six, a extra 2 dials, an extra movement and a Sterile Crown! OMG

But that's not the worst of it. I don't know how to upload the darn pictures. Pugwash talks about some other "Thing" not PhotoBucket"

Six And One On It's Way (6263 Long Markers) + a DW 6265 long markers to order + 6265 Albino, if someone makes or modifies one. Have one Modern Daytona all silver, but with Faux Dials from my "mate" in the Mall. Worth Keeping onside for minor repares. Hey! Does anyone know if they have Adult Education Classes for Watch Repairs in Kent / East Sussex Border in the UK, or a decent How To Do It Yourself Type Watch Repair Book? The UK needs a Rep Watch Repairer.

16PNs.jpg

Davis Wong + DW Domi Mod (Swiss Movement)(Shear Time Case, with New Larger Crown)(Very Smooth Winding)

2aDavidWongDWDomiMod6239.jpg

Davis Wong (UnModed)(Looks the same as above, except a smaller Crown, and could do with a service to have a smoother winding experience)

2dDavidWong.jpg

2eDavidWong.jpg

2gDavidWong.jpg

DW Domi Mod (Swiss Movement)

3aDWDomiMod-wristshotok.jpg

3bDWDomiMod1.jpg

ReplicaMake = What Model is this?

4ReplicaMakeWhatModelisthis.jpg

Silix-Prime = What Model is this?

5aSilix-PrimeBlackBezelWhatModelisthis.jpg

Silix-Prime = Red Hand? What Model is this?

6aSilix-PrimeBigLadyRedSecWhatModelisthis.jpg

Watch Eden = BigLadyCheapQuarts = Bought before I could get a decent 6239

7WhatchEdenBigLadyCheapQuartsBoughtbeforeIcouldgetadecent6239.jpg

WOW, finally found out how to do it! Hard Work when you don't know How. OK Guys fire away. It would be good to know that I have more than 2 Models 6239 and nothing else that means anything!

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So... I guess you really like Paul Newmans, eh? :)

Good stuff, and it shows the wide range of quality you see with vintage Daytona reps. The DWs are far and away the best of the bunch, though the ReplicaMake 6265 is also credible enough at a distance, symmetrical pushers notwithstanding. What's far more noticeable than the pusher layout is the rehaut, and the proportions of the bezel thickness in relation to the dial. The Silixes and the WatchEden have tiny dials set deep within the case, and THAT is the biggest tell to me. The crown guards don't help things, either!

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Hey! Does anyone know if they have Adult Education Classes for Watch Repairs in Kent / East Sussex Border in the UK, or a decent How To Do It Yourself Type Watch Repair Book? The UK needs a Rep Watch Repairer.

Every time I order something from Cousins, I get a printed catalog that has a few pages about a watchmaking course they offer in the UK. (I'm not sure if it's actually Cousins who organizes this, or if it's an affiliate.) Unfortunately, I don't have a catalog to look at, so maybe someone else here can chime in.

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So... I guess you really like Paul Newmans, eh? :)

Good stuff, and it shows the wide range of quality you see with vintage Daytona reps. The DWs are far and away the best of the bunch, though the ReplicaMake 6265 is also credible enough at a distance, symmetrical pushers notwithstanding. What's far more noticeable than the pusher layout is the rehaut, and the proportions of the bezel thickness in relation to the dial. The Silixes and the WatchEden have tiny dials set deep within the case, and THAT is the biggest tell to me. The crown guards don't help things, either!

Yes, remember seeing PN in the Movie: "Somebody Up There Likes Me". Thought he was great! Thanks again for your insight and will study all your "terms" 'cause I love learning.

Stated out just wanting 1 PN Daytona 6239, but at the time of ordering the first 4 Watches, had no idea what I was doing and doesn't it show? :unsure: It was "Your Good Self" that put me onto DW so: "Thank You". I had a DW Shear Time with Pump Pushers with Domi BUT sent him a ROC Dial. Since I was to order the correct RC Dial from David, I thought "what the heck", may as well get another DW 6239.

Domi suggested a Swiss Movement and I went with it. As for the rest: Bought them before getting the DW's, but don't really mind having them now. Both Silixes where not what were pictured on their Site at time of order, but Saul being a Good Guy is sending me a free 6263 which to me, looks close enough to David's and I can't argue about the price! This leaves me just David's 6265 to get. The WE was just a fill in while I was waiting on Domi's Moded DW. Waiting for the dust to settle at home, before buying the DW 6265. :inv:

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As above, you certainly have most of the various quality levels of Newman reps covered.

I am not fond of those wide straps (wore them back in the 70s), but the asymmetrical samples show promise.

Thank you for your input and advice. Need to ask what you mean by "asymmetrical samples" in term's of the watches or Bands? Had the "70" straps made for me because it was what PN wore (but also find that half the metal bracelets don't work anyhow). I love retro and would say that more than half of my clothing ranges from the 1930's to the 1950's. One of the few guys near London that wont go outdoors without a cap or hat of some description. The 1970's is really not my scene, but made an exception 'cause it's Paul Newman and I loved the Man and his generosity.

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Need to ask what you mean by "asymmetrical samples" in term's of the watches or Bands?

Asymmetrical pusher positioning (top pusher closer to crown than bottom pusher).

Had the "70" straps made for me because it was what PN wore (but also find that half the metal bracelets don't work anyhow).

I do not wear 1, so I cannot point you to a source, but I know these wide straps are readily available today & unless you need a specific design custom made, you ought to be able to find a source via google (or someone else here may be able to suggest a seller).

74widestrap0021.jpg

(Pic of my wide strap in '75)

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Asymmetrical pusher positioning (top pusher closer to crown than bottom pusher).

I do not wear 1, so I cannot point you to a source, but I know these wide straps are readily available today & unless you need a specific design custom made, you ought to be able to find a source via google (or someone else here may be able to suggest a seller).

Thanks for the explanation of "Asymmetrical". Will now look that up. Didn't even realise that some of my PN's had Crown Guards until I photographed them. :blush:

Thanks for your kind thoughts and picture, but I get all my leather straps from: "SteveOstraps". He is a great guy (in the UK) and sells everything, even special orders, for less than £30. You name it, he will make it, and will mostly throw in a free surprise for me. These PN's are my first photo posts, but when I get more time, I'll take and post more photos. Have collected mostly Panerai's to date and most have "StevesOStraps". I love 'em. Non Pan's, I normally leave the bracelets that they came with. Earlier on this Thread, these is a photo of Paul Newman. I sent Steve that photo and he made me the straps. Nice soft padded leather with the 20mm bands/straps going in-between the wider band which is like a sleeve, rather than just one piece of leather with the 20mm bands running against my skin. Anyway, who knows, it may catch on again and become trendy? I don't do "trendy", just what pleases "my" eye.:D

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