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14060 No Date Sub


nonskeder

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This is one of my favorite subs. I have the gen Rolex but now am looking for a good rep of the same. I have been up one most of our dealers sites for a look see but really cant tell from the pics if it is ok or not. Anyone have any thoughts on this! I know I know this does sound like "who has the best sub?". Thanks is advance, John.

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Maybe the solution is to build one ;)

Start with the case- Perhaps the $100 TTK special, add an ETA 2836 (minus the datewheel), genuine dial and hands... Follow up with a gen crown/tube, insert and call it done!

One smokin' piece for not a lot of money (in relative terms)...

TTK Sub $100-ish

ETA 2836 $65

Hands $30

Gen dial $250 (guesstimate based on the last one I saw for sale)

Gen crown/tube $80

Gen insert $100

Grand total- $625

Of course, that figure can flux up/down depending on cost of dial and other parts. I know that the crown/tube and insert can be found for less, so it might all balance out...

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Maybe the solution is to build one ;)

Start with the case- Perhaps the $100 TTK special, add an ETA 2836 (minus the datewheel), genuine dial and hands... Follow up with a gen crown/tube, insert and call it done!

One smokin' piece for not a lot of money (in relative terms)...

TTK Sub $100-ish

ETA 2836 $65

Hands $30

Gen dial $250 (guesstimate based on the last one I saw for sale)

Gen crown/tube $80

Gen insert $100

Grand total- $625

Of course, that figure can flux up/down depending on cost of dial and other parts. I know that the crown/tube and insert can be found for less, so it might all balance out...

Ubi if I had your talent that is exactly what I would do.

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Guest chronomat123

Ubi--

Do you think the Rehaut on the Noobmariner is good enough? As I am considering doing the 14060 as my first build project. I've always loved the 14060 especially the non SEl bracelet.

I was thinking that to improve the rehaut, I was going to try to track down a very thin auto movement. This should occupy less space in the case, no?

I'm curious as to what you think.

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Well... I think the rehaut could be better, but for the price, the noobmariner is a hard bargain to pass up.

Unfortunately, with the rehaut there is nothing that can make it look taller than what it is. It's either deep enough, or not. The only way to add depth is to add metal... Not exactly the easiest way to go.

The best way to achieve a 14060 (in my opinion) will require a little more money spent, and more work in tracking down the now discontinued TW Best Classic. This is the BEST basis to start with as it already has the lug holes (that need to be drilled out to accomodate 2mm springbars), the rehaut is deep, it already has the ETA inside, and adding a hollow end link bracelet is a snap. You'd still need to add the dial, crown, tube and insert, but it's the best platform to build this one on...

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Randy, the rehaut on the TW classic may be too deep for the 14060. That is one massive case. :D

An option may be the more recent (revised) TW case which is shallower and maintains the side case holes. These are probably a heck of a lot easier to source as well.

Regards,

Jet

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This was going to be a project of mine up until 2 months ago. I bombarded Ubi & Jet with tons of questions such as these (sorry guys) but fell up a little short in the dial area. IMO, the TW classic is the only way to go as the 14060 is the only sub to still sport the lug holes. I was unaware there was a new tw classic, I know there was the tw best but I thought this model came without the lug holes. With regards to the rehaut, I'd rather be a little deeper than too shallow...

At any rate, like mentioned above the tw classic is the way to go. Perhaps even harder to source though would be the dial. As we all know, all of the rep dials fall short when it comes to accuracy. The 14060 is a unique dial with respects to the small hour indices and the fact that they are so close to the hash marks. For what ever reason, the dial font is pretty bad on all of them too. I'd consider Angus' 14060 to be the most accurate but I've heard he can't source his advertised model any more. Plus, he's a little sketchy right now.

With respect to a gen dial, I exhausted about every avenue on the web that I know of and was still unable to find a decent dial. There were a few on ebay but all looked to be redials and pretty bad ones at that. The dial will definitely be the hardest part of this project and the most costly. I finally gave up when I was able to source a gen 16800 dial and decided to do that project instead.

hope this helps ;)

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I think I remember Eddie Lee having classic subs with the lug holes still for sale. Would a correct dial be available from a Rolex AD and would it fit in a TW classic case? If that were all doable a great watch could be made from a doner TW classic sub, CG's done, gen dial, and case drilled out and your about done. I would love to do this project as it has the very classy but understated look to it. Great knock around watch too!

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I think I remember Eddie Lee having classic subs with the lug holes still for sale. Would a correct dial be available from a Rolex AD and would it fit in a TW classic case? If that were all doable a great watch could be made from a doner TW classic sub, CG's done, gen dial, and case drilled out and your about done. I would love to do this project as it has the very classy but understated look to it. Great knock around watch too!

No parts of any kind can/will be sold from an AD.

I've been thinking about a no date as well, got a joshua sub with really nice rehault but scratched datewheel and scratched cyclops... Biggest thing stopping my is drilling lug holes in a case without. Anyone have a suggestion?

I would not suggest using that sub to create a 14060, mainly due to the case. Definitely start from a tw sub

Edited by bruce79
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@bruce79 AD=authorized dealer. Was wondering if you could source a gen dial and make it work in a TW sub case? John.

I know what a AD is but I didn't know if he was joking or not. After realizing that he wasn't, I changed the response.

With regards to sourcing a gen dial, I touched on this in the above post. IMO, the only way, and easiest way, to create a franken 14060 is with a tw sub and gen dial as the rep dials are pretty bad. You could check ebay.

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I know what a AD is but I didn't know if he was joking or not. After realizing that he wasn't, I changed the response.

With regards to sourcing a gen dial, I touched on this in the above post. IMO, the only way, and easiest way, to create a franken 14060 is with a tw sub and gen dial as the rep dials are pretty bad. You could check ebay.

Nope not a joke. Did not know you could not buy parts from a dealer.

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Unless you sent your gen in for service.

You could buy a cheap/bad redial for your gen 14060, have an ind. watchmaker install it, send it in for service and upon cracking the case open and tearing everything down, Rolex will require that you change the dial with genuine. So, you would have your original dial, as well as the new service replacement dial from the RSC.

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Unless you sent your gen in for service.

You could buy a cheap/bad redial for your gen 14060, have an ind. watchmaker install it, send it in for service and upon cracking the case open and tearing everything down, Rolex will require that you change the dial with genuine. So, you would have your original dial, as well as the new service replacement dial from the RSC.

I stand corrected :lol:

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:D

Unless you sent your gen in for service.

You could buy a cheap/bad redial for your gen 14060, have an ind. watchmaker install it, send it in for service and upon cracking the case open and tearing everything down, Rolex will require that you change the dial with genuine. So, you would have your original dial, as well as the new service replacement dial from the RSC.

OK OK I give up. I had no clue that it would be this hard. To all that answered--Thanks for your time and input. John.

Edited by nonskeder
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Don't give up after a day. :bangin: It's not that it can't be done, it's just that it will be challenging. Just keep your eyes peeled for a used tw sub on these forums. They pop up here and there and you just have to jump on them when they do. Do the same with the dial. They pop up on ebay every once in a while. Gen dials are hard to come by and if they were easy to find, this hobby wouldn't be as fun. I would have followed through with the 14060 project had I not came across a gen 16800 dial. Hang in there. ;)

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First of all, if you were to find a genuine dial for a 14060, I doubt it would fit in a rep case. A year ago I tried to put a gen 16610 dial in a CN case, no bueno. 27mm vs 28mm. And a 14060 is slightly smaller than a 16610, from what I can gather looking at dimensions at the reference section on Watchtrader.cc/. Bezel insert is smaller than a 16610 bezel insert...

It has been my experience that rep dials are typically at least 1mm bigger than the gens, except, as Randy will tell you , in the case of the MBW/WM 1680/5513 case!

Which gives me an idea, maybe you could build a 5513. Of course, that would be tantamount to sacrilege, cause you'd be using a MBW/WM case to start. And expensive to boot.

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i took some shots of my precious 14060m beside a TW best..

i think the TW is not the donor watch for this project..its too big. rehaut too deep..the rehaut is less on the 14060 than the date model...and the TW rep.

also the bezel is too thick on the TW.

let me see if i can post these pics...

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