Bark3rd Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 Hey all, I'm at a loss here during a very simple task. I have a Josh "Retro" edition GMT II on which I installed a kevlar strap from Torneau's. Now that I have repaired the Oyster bracelet I want to put it back on but I cannot get the kevlar strap off. I have the correct tools for pushing in the spring bars through the open lugholes but they will not move. The strap fills the entire space between the lugs, so I cant get to the spring bars from inside the lugs without damaging the strap. Why cant I push in the spring bars through the open lugholes? I used the same ones that came on the watch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 It sounds like the springbar rusted internally (cheap aftermarket 'bars will do that). Do you have a proper springbar tool (the part with the solid tip that fits into the lug hole)? You might try putting a drop of penetrating oil into the lug hole & give it a few minutes to work into the springbar & then try again. It may take some moderate force to collapse it enough to remove 1 side of the strap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bark3rd Posted June 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 It sounds like the springbar rusted internally (cheap aftermarket 'bars will do that). Do you have a proper springbar tool (the part with the solid tip that fits into the lug hole)? You might try putting a drop of penetrating oil into the lug hole & give it a few minutes to work into the springbar & then try again. It may take some moderate force to collapse it enough to remove 1 side of the strap. Thanks, yes I actually own one of those cheap Chinese watchmakers kits but the tools are good enough to remove a strap. Ill try the penetrating oil, hadn't thought of that, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyB Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 Did you drill the case holes before you installed the strap? The 'Retro' 16710 I got from Joshua has the case holes, but they are not drilled all the way through. They are just for looks, and it used regular springbars in different 'short' holes between the lugs. If it is like mine, using a springbar tool from the outside won't even touch the springbar. In that case, I'd try a razor blade to get in between the end a nd the lug. If that didn't work, I'd go the the extreme of breaking the springbar using the strap, but that might wipe out the strap too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeeJay Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 If the springbars had the raised ridges at the tip, just slide a pocket-knife between the strap and case, and a tweak of the wrist should engage the ridge without damaging strap or case. Or, if the bars are totally straight tips, you could always try a straightened paperclip to try and press the springbar from the outside Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bark3rd Posted June 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 Did you drill the case holes before you installed the strap? The 'Retro' 16710 I got from Joshua has the case holes, but they are not drilled all the way through. They are just for looks, and it used regular springbars in different 'short' holes between the lugs. If it is like mine, using a springbar tool from the outside won't even touch the springbar. In that case, I'd try a razor blade to get in between the end a nd the lug. If that didn't work, I'd go the the extreme of breaking the springbar using the strap, but that might wipe out the strap too. Aha, that explains it-I didn't drill them and didn't realize they dont go all the way through. There is no space whatsoever between the strap and the lugs, probably going to have to mess up the strap. Oh well. Fake lug holes FTL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeeJay Posted June 20, 2011 Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 Aha, that explains it-I didn't drill them and didn't realize they dont go all the way through. There is no space whatsoever between the strap and the lugs, probably going to have to mess up the strap. Oh well. Fake lug holes FTL. Is there absolutely no chance of working a knife blade between the side of the strap and lug? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bark3rd Posted June 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2011 Joey nailed it, once I realized the lug holes were fake (the amount of wrestling and poking I did at them is comical) I focused on getting to the pins from the inside. After whipping out my handy dandy $6 ebay watchmakers tool kit I had it off in about a minute with no damage to the strap. Thanks for the help! Time to drill out these biatches. Nice watch though, its my 2nd one (1st one was lost) and the only rep that has fooled my Rolex snob buddies (of course I told them it was a rep afterwards). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyB Posted June 22, 2011 Report Share Posted June 22, 2011 Joey nailed it, once I realized the lug holes were fake (the amount of wrestling and poking I did at them is comical) I focused on getting to the pins from the inside. After whipping out my handy dandy $6 ebay watchmakers tool kit I had it off in about a minute with no damage to the strap. Thanks for the help! Time to drill out these biatches. Nice watch though, its my 2nd one (1st one was lost) and the only rep that has fooled my Rolex snob buddies (of course I told them it was a rep afterwards). Drilling could be a problem too. I ruined a case by not being smart. The outside 'half hole' doesn't line up with the inside 'quarter hole'. When you drill and the bit reaches the inside hole it can take the bit and 'walk', following that hole making a very ugly oval on the outside of the lug. I used a 1.0mm split point bit to go all the way through, then followed with the 1.3mm bit. The split point did not walk, made it's own way through. freddy said that with just enough of the bit out from the chuck to go through the lug is stable enough to go through straight. I haven't tried that yet, but his write-up is in the archives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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