Ephry73 Posted June 24, 2011 Report Share Posted June 24, 2011 I have two ETA movements that look as if they have been exposed to light moisture a LOOOONG time ago. Both seem to work for a little bit but I have to hand wind them. One(ETA 2873) will take the hand wind, but unwind immediately (takes three seconds to loose all motion) i'm hoping its just a case of cleaning and oiling. The other one(ETA 2846) seems to have a rusted stem(outside of the movement is pitted where it goes inside the movement it's pristine) and this one spins and engages all functions, but won't take a charge) Any ideas? I wanted to know if just alcohol to clean the auto wind will help loosen things up, or if I need to get more specialized chemicals(I think I know the answer) I know movements are not too expensive, but if I can do it myself, and learn, I think it will be more than worth it. I tried to play around with DG2813 movements and not too complicated to take apart(hummm) I would like to use these two movements on a seamaster300 military project and the other on a 5514 project. I frankly don't care if the date wheel is there or not. any sites where I can get diagrams or step-by-step would be ideal. Thanks a bunch. E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted June 24, 2011 Report Share Posted June 24, 2011 No short cuts here based on your description. You will need to do a FULL service. The "TimeZone Watch School" Part II has the step by step tear down, cleaning and lube for ETA 28xx. There is a PDF of it floating around the internet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ephry73 Posted June 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2011 I was afraid of that. I guess with the right diagrams it cannot be that hard. I will need to find a source for lubricants though. E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted June 25, 2011 Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 If you are in the USA, Ofrei.com will have everything you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ephry73 Posted June 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2011 I was just checking their listings. Too large a size for chemicals. Appreciate the info. E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highoeyazmuhudee Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 you can find an oil chart here: including what number of moebius oil to use on what part. its all diagrammed http://www.sellita.ch/images/stories/documents/SW220_DOC_FULL_v.19.04.10.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ephry73 Posted June 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Thanks a million Man. E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ephry73 Posted June 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 One last question. I finally received the ultrasonic cleaner and it works. What chemicals should I combine to clean, remove rust or oil deposits? Other than the "store purchase" expensive gallon size only ones advertised in all of the horologists websites. E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highoeyazmuhudee Posted June 29, 2011 Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 theres a few DIY solutions to try 30% simple green 70% hot water 50% pure white vinegar 50% hot water for removing oil naptha (zippo fluid) just becareful of combustion if it gets too hot i personally let it soak a bit with vinegar and water, clean cycle, then a rinse cycle with distilled water. i find this works well but i mostly use this on metal jewellery and bracelets. if youre removing oil naptha is what most old school watch smiths swear by. its since been removed from the market for cleaning , something to do with cancer maybe, but it can still be found as zippo fluid. again becareful since some cleaners super heat to aid in removing debris and heat + lighter fluid.... well... you get the idea. you might need up to 4 cycles to clean everything properly and some ultra sonic cleaners are useless (mostly $60 and less) theres a test you can perform with a pencil and a piece of glass, mark one side of frosted glass with an x with a pencil, place it in the cleaner with water and run, the pencil mark should disappear within 20 seconds for it to pass correctly. you should also see tiny bubbles when cleaning which is called agitation this mechanism is what actually causes microscopic cleansing. the use of vinegar (acid) in your solution helps increase the surface area while cleaning making the agitation a lot more effective than other solutions... anyways this is what i use. there are commercial cleaners that may be superior depending on what your job requires but those can cost $60/gal, where as vinegar is maybe $1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ephry73 Posted June 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 Great to know. Thanks for the tip that was simple enough. I will be dismantling the 2873 movement first as it seems to be the better of the two to clean and then see. Just waiting for the oils I ordered. Missing two according to one of the lists. Should I always replace the main spring when doing overhauls or just "dip" and lube? E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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