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Puffy Tritium Dials?


JAZ

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Hi all, I've been lurking for ages, admiring your huge body of knowledge and inspiring efforts. I've started vintagizing dials and hands using matte spray, cigar smoke, toaster oven, and halogen lamp, which has been fun and a learning process. Now I'm wanting to work with a dial made using a decal. I want to build up the dial markers in a vintagized way (meaning there's room for error and a lack of precision), which I assume can perhaps be done using lume paint from glow, inc, but wanted to ask:

Does anyone have any advice on how to build up the lume markers so that they are a bit puffy and have that eroded tritium look? I read in this thread about combining nitro-lacquer and lume powder (though his looks a bit heavy on the wood dye): http://www.repgeek.c...highlight=tudor

I would like to build up the lume markers so that I can then proceed to age them a bit using matte spray, cigar smoke, and maybe a halogen lamp combo. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks, JZ

I'm thinking about something in this direction: 5513giltlume-2.jpg

or this: http://www.rwg.cc/topic/129705-a-tudor-7922-small-crown-sub/page__hl__%2Btudor+%2B7922__fromsearch__1

or Woof's in this thread (third entry down) --> http://www.rwg.cc/topic/139103-building-a-tudor-7928-many-details-comments-welcome/page__hl__tudor__fromsearch__1

Edited by JAZ
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nice but not very genuine looking ;)

i whould keep the lume as flat as possible and relume the dial with an Revell Night Color mix - not too much :) and pointy with an watch oiler - gives a nice texture ..

the first picture looks like its water damaged.

cheers,

Frank

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I've been using the water slide decals for a couple of years now. I'm still learning how to lume, and not very good at it yet. I intend on using the fine oiler method to see if I can get better. But what I use for lume is an acrylic water based 'Glow Paint'. It comes in a whitish lume looking color, and I tint it using one of those 99¢ kids water color paint set. A tiny piece of the dry/hardened brown mixed in until it is the color I want. It gives that grainy textured look. So far, in over 2 years I haven't had any failure in terms of adhesion or breaking down at all. Here are two samples, again not much talent, especially on the markers, but you can get an idea of the material.

Rolex6542BlackDial.jpgMydialpic.jpg

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nice but not very genuine looking ;)

i whould keep the lume as flat as possible and relume the dial with an Revell Night Color mix - not too much :) and pointy with an watch oiler - gives a nice texture ..

the first picture looks like its water damaged.

cheers,

Frank

Thanks Frank. That's really helpful. Would you mix the Revell Night Color mix with lume powder? Also, does this look like a good oiler for the task? --> http://www.ebay.com/...1#ht_1077wt_902

I've been using the water slide decals for a couple of years now. I'm still learning how to lume, and not very good at it yet. I intend on using the fine oiler method to see if I can get better. But what I use for lume is an acrylic water based 'Glow Paint'. It comes in a whitish lume looking color, and I tint it using one of those 99¢ kids water color paint set. A tiny piece of the dry/hardened brown mixed in until it is the color I want. It gives that grainy textured look. So far, in over 2 years I haven't had any failure in terms of adhesion or breaking down at all. Here are two samples, again not much talent, especially on the markers, but you can get an idea of the material.

Rolex6542BlackDial.jpgMydialpic.jpg

Those are exactly what I'm aiming for being able to do. I have some of JMB's waterslide decals and two nicely painted black dial blanks all ready for the decals. You mentioned:

"But what I use for lume is an acrylic water based 'Glow Paint'. It comes in a whitish lume looking color, and I tint it using one of those 99¢ kids water color paint set. A tiny piece of the dry/hardened brown mixed in until it is the color I want. It gives that grainy textured look."

Where do you get the "Glow Paint" you're referring to? Can you hook me up with a link? Since you haven't been using an oiler, what have you been using? Thanks tons, JZ

Edited by JAZ
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It's called "Glow Paint", I found it at an art supply store, 4 oz for about $5.00 usd. I believe Justin uses an acrylic to seal the decals as I do, so it should all be compatible. I've used all sorts of things to apply it. For the round markers I use a round toothpick that I flatten the tip on. One drop dead center, let it dry a few minutes (usually by the last marker) and give it a 2nd drop. For the coronet and straight markers I've tried various shapes with the toothpicks, a sewing needle (recommended by RolexAddict, he uses a water based like this too), and of late a nib and nib holder - like a calligraphy pen or the dip old fountain pen. So far I have discovered two things I just can't seem to be able to do. One is to take decent macro pics and the other is to make a straight line when luming. But I never quit!!

The nice thing about this glow paint is that you can add water to thin it if you wish to, and if you mess it up you can simply wipe it off with a damp tissue. I have successfully removed lume that was dried for weeks with no damage to the dial/decal. That's why I like it so, it's very forgiving.

You said you have black painted dials. You'll need to know if Justin printed the decals on white decal paper or clear decal paper. On white should be no problem. If on clear the black dial will hide the lettering and markers. Inkjet does not print white, so the lighter colors such as whites, yellows and gold are very opaque. I did my first on a black dial and saw no lettering at all! Since, I've used white on the dial, almond, and bare brass with varying smoothness. The dial above on the left is bare brass finish sanded with 1500, very smooth. The one on the right is sanded using 400 grit and leaving the swirls in for a more 'gilt' look. And of course, I'm still learning!

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The decals were printed on an ALPS MD5000 which prints white/gold so they are applied over whatever color you want the dial to be. :)

As far as lume, I've been using Glow, Inc watch lume and although it is easy to tint with acrylic paint, and glows all night, I'm not really happy with the surface "texture" and it dries rather translucent. This translucency requires you to have some light color (white, yellowish, etc) on the dial where your markers are as it will show through. I think the binder is a water-based latex as it seems a bit rubbery. I re-lumed a set of hands somebody sent me for a project with a Luminova kit he sent with them and I like the way it flowed out and looked so I ordered a kit and I'm fixin' to make another "Blue Snowflake" dial and will use the Luminova. I believe the Luminova kit uses a lacquer binder.

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Thanks guys!

This is all very helpful. I've ordered some Glow Paint, and also some Glow Inc paint and an oiler.

@ JoeyB --> Now I'm a little confused because I'm not sure what kind of decals I'm dealing with exactly. They're waterslide. Two are on a light blue-ish paper and have both gilt minute and hour markers, but with the text in white (they're tudor 7928s), and one, all gilt 7928, on white paper. I was assuming all would slide off the backing to be clear apart from the printed text, and that they would stand out nicely atop the black painted background. I'll be trying one of them out tonight, and will let you know what I discover.

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I would keep the tritium as flat as possible and vintagize it from there. Puffy markers are an indication of a later relume most of the time. Gen tritium markers are flat.

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Absolutely. That Comex has legendary status from the old days, and I remember that Tribal did the CGs during one of the EU GTGs which Stephane hosted then. :)

actualy i did the CGs - Tribal the tube+crown ;)

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