Engine Turned Bezel

[omgiv]

Can anyone please tell me the correct size for an engine turned bezel for a 162xx Datejust? I see a lot on eBay and many say that the acrylic and sapphire are the same. I have also read that is not true due to the sapphire crystal's gasket height. The gasket height is 2.3mm for the sapphire model (or so I am told) so I assume it has to be at least that tall. Any guidance would be much appreciated. Thanks!

[automatico]

The 16200 steel bezel ID is 30.4 - 30.45mm. They are sometimes not exactly round after a few press ons and pry offs.

Bezels for a 16000 and 16200 are very close to the same ID...the case necks are just about the same od too.

The 16200 sapphire bezel is taller than a bezel for a 16000.

A 16000 bezel may be too low to properly cover the crystal gasket when used on a sapphire crystal.

You can get by with a sapphire bezel on a 16000 case with an acrylic crystal as long as the angle on top of the crystal is fully above the bezel.

You can also sand the bezel down on a flat surface to thin it down a little. Sanding a small angle on the bottom of the bezel can help start the bezel over the gasket.

If the bezel goes on unevenly it can cut the gasket and it may not show until it leaks.

A sapphire crystal and bezel will fit a 16000 case but the second hand will probably rub the crystal.

The dial on a 16000 mounts higher in the case than the dial on a 16200.

All 16000 cases use regular 6.0mm case tubes.

All the 16200 cases I have seen used 5.3mm case tubes.

A 16000 case has a flat caseback gasket and a 16200 case has a round section caseback gasket...they will not interchange.

A 3135 will not fit in a 16000 case and a 3035 will not fit in a 16200 case...without machine work etc.

etc, etc...      

[bruce79]

The bezels are indeed slightly different for the sapphire and acrylic crystal datejusts.  They can be interchanged, but the crystal won't look right as the height of the bezels are different.  I've got a gen engine turned bezel for acrylic crystal if you're interested. 

[1680]

Automatico, nothing to add, really...

 

Yes they are interchangeable. I got a engine turned bezel on my 16014 which is for the sapphire version, it was very cheap so I grabbed it.

 

And yes the sapphire version is taller but looks ok on the acrylic DJ, other way roung wouldn't work (mentioned above). I will sand down the bezel one day...

[omgiv]

Wow!!! Thanks for the detailed explanations. I hate to even ask follow up question since the replies were so thorough, but do you know the height of the sapphire bezel for the 16200? That is what I am planning on building and would rather buy one bezel if I can help it. Thanks again!!!

[automatico]

"...do you know the height of the sapphire bezel for the 16200?"

 

The 30.4 to 30.45mm id figures above were from memory and were for solid gold bezels so I dug a few steel and gold bezels out and measured them:

 

two used genuine 16200 steel engine turned bezels:

2.3mm high x 30.5mm id x 34.5mm od

2.35mm high x 30.5mm id x 34.45mm od

 

two used genuine 16000 steel engine turned bezels:

2.0mm high x 30.5mm id x 34.75mm od

2.0mm high x 30.5mm id x 34.9mm od

 

two used genuine 16200 smooth steel bezels:

2.33mm high x 30.5mm id x 34.4mm od

2.35mm high x 30.5mm id x 34.5mm od

 

two used genuine 18kyg fluted 16234 etc bezels:

2.33mm high x 30.45mm id x 34.3mm od (4.9 grams)

2.35mm high x 30.45mm id x 34.3mm od

 

two used 18kyg smooth 16233 etc bezels:

2.3mm high x 30.45mm id x 34.4mm od (4.9 grams)

2.33mm high x 30.45mm id x 34.4mm od

 

two used genuine 18kyg fluted bezels for qs acrylic DJ 16013 etc:

1.9mm high x 30.48mm id x 34.35mm od (3.3 grams)

1.95mm high x 30.47mm id x 34.4mm od

 

two new genuine 18kyg fluted bezels for 16013 DJ etc:

2.0mm high x 30.4mm id x 34.0mm od (3.3 grams)

2.04mm high x 30.45mm id x 34.2mm

 

one 18k 'bark' bezel from 18kyg sapphire DD:

2.48mm high x 30.45mm id x 34.3mm od (5.5 grams)

 

two new 18kyg aftmkt 16234 etc fluted bezels:

2.33 high x 30.45mm id x 34.48mm od (4.9 grams)

2.62 high (!!) x 30.45mm id x 34.25mm od (5.6 grams)

 

The new 18kyg aftmkt bezels are die struck and finely finished same as genuine. The 2.33mm high bezel is ST, the other is unknown.

All genuine gold bezels have rolex coronets stamped on the bottom side.

All other gold bezels are like new so gold weight and measurements are accurate.

All ss bezels are like new so measurements are accurate.

All measurements made with Mitutoyo CD-6"P digital caliper.

All gold weight measurements made by an Ohaus Emerald series scale...accurate but not certified for trade purposes.

All typos are free. 

[omgiv]

Thank you so much kind sir for taking the time and measuring those for me.  I am going to save that information and add it to my files.  That answers my question perfectly.  Thanks again!!!!