Dutch Posted November 29, 2006 Report Share Posted November 29, 2006 I got into Rolex recently and I'm learning more each day. I never got the idea why the submariner was so popular, but now I understand. Simple yet elegant timeless design. What that in mind, I'm thinking of getting myself the noobmariner to start the Rolex madness. But the model that really did it for me was the Submariner 16800 with cream dial etc. I don't have much info and knowledge about Rolex, so I would like to know what it takes to get/build such a piece. Is the noobmariner a good base to start with etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alligoat Posted November 29, 2006 Report Share Posted November 29, 2006 The Noobmariner is a nice watch, but it is too modern- 2005-6, not 1982. A good place to start would be a TW sub case with the lugs holes. May not be easy to find, because people are realizing what great cases they are, so they're hard to come by and they are no longer in production, as far as we know. A gen dial, the older version without the white gold surrounds, cream dial as you refer to it, would be a great and from there a gen insert and Rolex crown and tube would complete the major parts list. An eta (2836) and an old style date wheel w/ open 6's and 9's would complete the package. Wouldn't it be great if the dealers came out w/ this watch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted November 29, 2006 Report Share Posted November 29, 2006 Hmmm... Sapphy crystal with tool matte dial. A fantastic combination if you ask me! Definitely as alligoat suggested- TW Best case, matte dial, gen insert, match lume the hands, add a vintage 3035 'style' (i.e. fonts) datewheel, gen crown/tube, drill the lugs, get a hollow link loose end bracelet and I think you're pretty much set! I'd suggest using a gen datewheel from a 3035, except the date rotates in the wrong direction still (CCW). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutch Posted November 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2006 Thanks for all the info............. Best case would be a TW. This accepts gen parts right? Do the new vintage models sold by the dealers also accept gen parts? Maybe use such a case and work from there if a tw case is impossible to find? And where can one buy gen dials? Looked on Ebay but couldn't find anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted November 29, 2006 Report Share Posted November 29, 2006 Well... You don't want to go with a 'vintage' case, as those use the acrylic/plastic crystals, and they're the wrong diameter. You definitely want to start with a TW Best case, or old MBW modern with sapphire crystal. Gen parts fit with some work. For the insert- You'll have to trim down the back so that the insert fits lower in the bezel. The dial should drop right in. For the crown and tube- The tube will most likely require you to re-tap the case, but the crown will thread onto the ETA stem no problem. For the springbars, you'll have to have the lugs drilled for 2mm bars with 1.2mm ends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutch Posted November 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2006 Gen parts fit with some work. For the insert- You'll have to trim down the back so that the insert fits lower in the bezel. The dial should drop right in. For the crown and tube- The tube will most likely require you to re-tap the case, but the crown will thread onto the ETA stem no problem. For the springbars, you'll have to have the lugs drilled for 2mm bars with 1.2mm ends. Ok, thnx. Hmm, I think I can't do all those mods myself. I'm still a relative noob on this customizing. And to take it as a 1st project wouldn't be the smartest I suppose. I have a old case which I maybe can use. I posted it yesterday, thought I was a vintage style case, but turned out to be modern. But maybe of any use? http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=16202 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lionsandtigers Posted November 29, 2006 Report Share Posted November 29, 2006 tis a beauty that 16800.....was considering building one myself. Do you guys notice the rehaut on that? Pretty shallow in comparison to the 16610.....tw case may be to deep, but i may be wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutch Posted November 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2006 Do you guys notice the rehaut on that? What's rehaut? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted November 29, 2006 Report Share Posted November 29, 2006 Yeah... The 16800 is definitely not as deep in the rehaut area... So, if you don't mind drilling lug holes on a solid lug, a noobmariner case would do the job... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce79 Posted November 29, 2006 Report Share Posted November 29, 2006 Not sure about the rehaut but the first 16800s with the matte dials seem closer to the 1680s...however the 16800 with the transitional dial with the gloss finish and white gold hour markers was morphing into the 16610. I built my 16800 after the latter. I've got a tw case, gen transitional dial with nice cream patina hour markers , gen tube & crown, hands lumed to match cream patina on dial, and gen insert that I've yet to install. I've still got to get the bracelet right as the one I currently have has solid mid links and solid end links. But that will come...I'm just enjoying it right now Quite a few things were changing in the mid to late 90's for these watches that it's hard to keep up. I'm sure Ubi could break it all down but I'm not sure of them all. The dials changed from tritium to luminova, end links changed from hollow to solid, lug holes to no lug holes (may be later than 90's), open 6 & 9 to closed 6 & 9...did I miss anything lol. Ubi and I were talking about my franken 16800 and how it would be pretty hard to distinguish it from the early 16610. Apparently the matte dials are more rare and are coveted by collectors...which makes them dame near impossible to get. I believe the transitional dials are easier to get your hands on. Here are a few pics of my partially completed 16800 with the gen insert that needs to be installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted November 29, 2006 Report Share Posted November 29, 2006 I know of a couple of matte 16800 dials for sale, though none of them are any less than $650. The REALLY difficult one to find is the 16660, but that's another story. Anyways... Regarding 16610 changes... SELs were into'd around the late A serials into the P's; Luminova dials were fully tranistioned around the same time. Lug holes went away in the F serial, closed 6/9's were introduced a bit prior to U serials. Think that about sums it up. Not sure how most people feel about dropping $800 to $1200 on a gen dial to use in a rep, but I will say this- It would be VERY unique as I have not seen this done... Yet! Would be a shame to sacrifice a genuine dial, so maybe anothr option would be to have one printed up. MY comes to mind... And at a bit less than what a gen dial would cost! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce79 Posted November 29, 2006 Report Share Posted November 29, 2006 I know of a couple of matte 16800 dials for sale, though none of them are any less than $650. The REALLY difficult one to find is the 16660, but that's another story. Anyways... Regarding 16610 changes... SELs were into'd around the late A serials into the P's; Luminova dials were fully tranistioned around the same time. Lug holes went away in the F serial, closed 6/9's were introduced a bit prior to U serials. Think that about sums it up. Not sure how most people feel about dropping $800 to $1200 on a gen dial to use in a rep, but I will say this- It would be VERY unique as I have not seen this done... Yet! Would be a shame to sacrifice a genuine dial, so maybe anothr option would be to have one printed up. MY comes to mind... And at a bit less than what a gen dial would cost! Yeah that's a lot of dough...my gen transitional dial put me back $100. With regards to those changes and serial #'s, do you have any dates for those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutch Posted November 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2006 Not sure how most people feel about dropping $800 to $1200 on a gen dial to use in a rep, but I will say this- It would be VERY unique as I have not seen this done... Yet! Would be a shame to sacrifice a genuine dial, so maybe anothr option would be to have one printed up. MY comes to mind... And at a bit less than what a gen dial would cost! I won't be spending $800 plus on a gen dial. So maybe look for the transitional dial. But printing one sounds interesting? Where and how could this be done? Contact the dealers? BtW, thank you all for the info. I've learned many things..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted November 29, 2006 Report Share Posted November 29, 2006 U serial is '97 A/P serial is late '99 into '00 F serial started in Fall of '03 (iirc) and spanned into early '05 For what it's worth, there are a few fuzzy lines here... Some Y serials (late '03) may also have solid lugs; some may not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted November 29, 2006 Report Share Posted November 29, 2006 I won't be spending $800 plus on a gen dial. So maybe look for the transitional dial. But printing one sounds interesting? Where and how could this be done? Contact the dealers? BtW, thank you all for the info. I've learned many things..... You can contact www.classicwatchparts.com to inquire on having a dial printed. It won't be the most accurate dial as far as details go, per se, but they're still well done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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