dont understand

[umairarif]

Hi

when i read reviews here, first mostly they are old, then they talk about 1st, 2nd, 3rd or 4th generation reps. but on the dealers site like trust it dont say what gen is the model or what years is it from. So how should we telle the watches with the reviews ??

regards

[markiemark]

What ya lookin for mate?

[umairarif]

I am not ready to buy yet, just doing my research thats why I come up with new questions every day. like today I was looking at omega seamaster 45mm review and it was done in 2010 and then it was talking about 1, 2 ,3 and 4th gen models which confused me alot.

[markiemark]

Well factories keep producing newer models with improvements. Most of the time the newer version is the best. But sometimes a v3 is better than a v4 on a particular make/model.

Most dealers always carry the latest version, unless you ask for an older version...

[masmannan]

^ agree that some situations do arise where a v3 can be better than v4.

However, if you can't decide when it comes to purchase time, ask the TD. They are TDs for a reason and I'm

Sure they'll happily guide you.

[freddy333]

Regardless of the hyperbole of sellers, no rep is ever a 100% accurate copy of a genuine watch. Although gens are somewhat overpriced, it is virtually impossible to make an exact copy of a $10k watch for $300, especially when the rep copy is assembled under less than laboratory grade conditions & without rigorous QC. Each rep has its own set of sins (inaccuracies). The rep made from factory A may get 3 details wrong on the dial & 2 on the bracelet. The same model watch made in factory B may get 2 different details wrong on the dial & a different 1 on the bracelet with an additional mistake on the crown. The point is that each rep has its own set of sins & different people rank different sins differently. That is why I can tell you which rep of 3 samples is the best for me, but it may not necessarily be the best for you. What you need to do is spend some time researching pics & details of the specific gen watch model you are interested in. If it is a current model, make a few trips to dealers & try them on (it does not cost anything to try on watches). Note how the watch feels on your wrist. Note how the metal feels & reflects light. Note how the crown feels when you wind the watch & set the time. Note how the bracelet or strap feels & reacts to your wrist movements. Once you have a good feel for how the real thing looks & feels, then you are in a good position to select the rep that you can be happy with.

[watchfreund]

Regardless of the hyperbole of sellers, no rep is ever a 100% accurate copy of a genuine watch. Although gens are somewhat overpriced, it is virtually impossible to make an exact copy of a $10k watch for $300, especially when the rep copy is assembled under less than laboratory grade conditions & without rigorous QC. Each rep has its own set of sins (inaccuracies). The rep made from factory A may get 3 details wrong on the dial & 2 on the bracelet. The same model watch made in factory B may get 2 different details wrong on the dial & a different 1 on the bracelet with an additional mistake on the crown. The point is that each rep has its own set of sins & different people rank different sins differently. That is why I can tell you which rep of 3 samples is the best for me, but it may not necessarily be the best for you. What you need to do is spend some time researching pics & details of the specific gen watch model you are interested in. If it is a current model, make a few trips to dealers & try them on (it does not cost anything to try on watches). Note how the watch feels on your wrist. Note how the metal feels & reflects light. Note how the crown feels when you wind the watch & set the time. Note how the bracelet or strap feels & reacts to your wrist movements. Once you have a good feel for how the real thing looks & feels, then you are in a good position to select the rep that you can be happy with.

100% agree.

Funny: the research/sourcing information plus the hunt for the parts is the biggest fun part for me.

[jtiis]

+1 on Freddy's comment above.

 

Perhaps my most accurate reps is a 111/390; 111 case from the Noob factory with dial, hands and caseback from a 390 from the H factory. My smith louped the dial and actually thought it was gen. Some of the rep parts are very well executed.

 

It's not possible to "combine" watches from different factories all the time - parts might not fix etc. but it's often done to varying degrees and with varying expense. When the rep factories don't "combine" into a desired watch, time to get Frank(en)... or go gen... or,... give up.

[umairarif]

ok i understand what you guys said. So if I want to buy for example omega planet ocean ti, do I need to mention to the dealer to send me a specific model like v1 or 2 or 3 or the year according to the reviews I have read?

and also how true are these specification on the sellers website about the watch? because if these things they have said in description on the item are true than why they hel would any one buy gen watches? 

for example

MOVEMENT:  Nickel Plated Swiss Eta 2824-2 Automatic Movement, 28800bph, 25J, Decorated Insignia Rotor, All Markings of Omega 8500 Calibre Present
CASE DIAMETER: 45.5mm - With Correct 22mm Lug Width
THICKNESS: 17mm 
DIAL COLOR: Blue Liduidmetal Dial (Same Toen and LIQUIDMETAL Texture as Genuine), Embossed Steel 6/9/12 Numeral Markers, Correct Omega Logo - No Happy Feet, 2 Colour Superlume Blue/Green, Blue on Hour Markers and Hour Hand, Green On Bezel and Min Hand... As per Genuine for Easy Reading Against Bezel Minute Index during Diving
CASE MATERIAL: Titanium Caseset in Sheen Finish.... Same Finish and Tone as Genuine, Correct HE Position, Serial Numbers Engraved on Back of Lugs near 7:00 position
BRACELET: AntiDust 1 : 1 Blue Rubber Strap/White Stitch with Single Fold Deployant Clasp
FRONT GLASS: Swiss Grade 1 Sapphire Crystal with Correct Purple Hume AR Coating as per Genuine, the Highest Clarity Sapphire Crystal ever used on Replica Watches
BACK GLASS:  Display Case Caseback With Insignia Logo and Anticounterfiet Print
BEZEL: Blue Ceramic Bezel (Same Tone as Genuine), Uni-Directional Rotating Bezel
HACK MOVEMENT: Yes 
CLASP TYPE: Deployant Clasp
DATE INDICATOR: At 3:00 position

Edited October 2, 2013 by umairarif

[jtiis]

If you stay with TD (trusted dealers listed here) - you can be FAIRLY sure you're getting what is described... go to the AAA Swiss sites and you're sure NOT to. Also, over time dealers stop selling v.1,2 and only have v,3 (they move stock don't ya know). Sometimes the v.1 is about the best - but ... they're gone. For example, some v.1 IWC 3717's were as good as you could get without going Franken/Gen. It just depends. It takes some time but things become less confusing over time.... keep with this little hobby if you want an "interesting" ride... or... just find a nice cheap watch and be gone... but do it with a trusted dealer... you'll be happier that way.