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Would a gen 16610 dial, hands and movement (3135) fit into TC case withou mod?


dvn

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"I think I am going to pass on it due to the condition of the dial and hands. Thank you for your inputs."

Passing on the project is a good decision imho for whatever reason.

I have put a few 'Frankensteins' together using genuine 1530 base movements and the truth is I have really been disappointed in them. I had a few spare movements and bought a few more to make F-steins but have totally changed my mind.

Why?

In the past four or five years that I have worn the F-steins, I have had a rash of mechanical problems...broken balance staffs, anodized red reverser teeth chipping, winding rotor axles coming loose in the weight, broken top rotor axle jewels etc. It's been like a flash-back to when I wore genuine rolex watches in years past. It's like the guys who say "They don't make cars like they used to". Thank goodness for that!

When I drove '55, '56, '57, etc Chevrolets in the mid to late 1960s I spent as much time under them as in them.

The truth is that these movements are not very rugged compared to modern (Eta) automatics and just plain fragile compared to quartz movements. The 3035 is not much better in my experience because they have a lot of top winding rotor jewel trouble, hairsprings coming loose on the balance collet, tangled hairsprings, reverser trouble, broken balance staffs etc.

I wore a few watches with 3035 back when they were popular but usually sold them as soon as possible (still have two 3035 watches left though). I doubt the 3135 is a whole lot better (one left). I have owned quite a few 3135 watches but never wore one very much.

There is a reason why RWC has the biggest repair network in the world.

I have had a LOT of experience with 1530 base movements going back to the early 1970s. Broken and worn out parts was not a problem for most of that time but when RWC got psycho serious about cutting off parts, their watches ceased to be worth much to me.

I will admit I am rough on watches (because I can fix them...Ha!) but no more than everyone was 35 or 40 years ago when mechanical watches were common and there was a repair shop on every corner.

If I was going to make a super nice 16610, the movement question would be Swiss Eta or Asian etaclone and TC would get my vote for the rest.

I have had very good luck with genuine Eta 2824/36 etc and if one blows up, parts are plentiful...and cheap!

The best thing about a replica rolex is that it does not have a $rolex$ movement...

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"I think I am going to pass on it due to the condition of the dial and hands. Thank you for your inputs."

Passing on the project is a good decision imho for whatever reason.

I have put a few 'Frankensteins' together using genuine 1530 base movements and the truth is I have really been disappointed in them. I had a few spare movements and bought a few more to make F-steins but have totally changed my mind.

Why?

In the past four or five years that I have worn the F-steins, I have had a rash of mechanical problems...broken balance staffs, anodized red reverser teeth chipping, winding rotor axles coming loose in the weight, broken top rotor axle jewels etc. It's been like a flash-back to when I wore genuine rolex watches in years past. It's like the guys who say "They don't make cars like they used to". Thank goodness for that!

When I drove '55, '56, '57, etc Chevrolets in the mid to late 1960s I spent as much time under them as in them.

The truth is that these movements are not very rugged compared to modern (Eta) automatics and just plain fragile compared to quartz movements. The 3035 is not much better in my experience because they have a lot of top winding rotor jewel trouble, hairsprings coming loose on the balance collet, tangled hairsprings, reverser trouble, broken balance staffs etc.

I wore a few watches with 3035 back when they were popular but usually sold them as soon as possible (still have two 3035 watches left though). I doubt the 3135 is a whole lot better (one left). I have owned quite a few 3135 watches but never wore one very much.

There is a reason why RWC has the biggest repair network in the world.

I have had a LOT of experience with 1530 base movements going back to the early 1970s. Broken and worn out parts was not a problem for most of that time but when RWC got psycho serious about cutting off parts, their watches ceased to be worth much to me.

I will admit I am rough on watches (because I can fix them...Ha!) but no more than everyone was 35 or 40 years ago when mechanical watches were common and there was a repair shop on every corner.

If I was going to make a super nice 16610, the movement question would be Swiss Eta or Asian etaclone and TC would get my vote for the rest.

I have had very good luck with genuine Eta 2824/36 etc and if one blows up, parts are plentiful...and cheap!

The best thing about a replica rolex is that it does not have a $rolex$ movement...

 

Thanks for the wonderful comment. I have already cancelled my the purchase.

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Well... I use the term 'beater' maybe more in the sense in that it's suitable for just about anything the day has to throw at me  :)  And less so in that I put the watch through abuse  ;)

 

The vintage PP are nice... But being pieces from the 40's/50's, they're not water resistant...

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