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Got the luck to try on two pieces of ROO Diver carbon respectively from noob and h factory


Chrononna

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Sorry guys, but I'm still not sure where to get the noob or h factory. Is noob puretime or trusty? Thanks!

I *think* PureTime is selling the Noob version, as it mentions V3.

 

Not checked out Trustys site for it yet.

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Sorry guys, but I'm still not sure where to get the noob or h factory. Is noob puretime or trusty? Thanks!

 

 

Is the V3 from the Noob Factory? I thought it was from another factory.?..

 

It does surpass the H factory in build quality IMO and is worth the extra $130.00

 

 

I *think* PureTime is selling the Noob version, as it mentions V3.

 

Not checked out Trustys site for it yet.

 

 

I have made a correction in comment that it's actually not the noob but the Z factory... sorry guys. :fool:

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Just a touch off the subject, but does anyone have a plausible reason as to why AP uses a relatively slow beat movement, when the trend for years has been a movement toward faster beat movements? 28800 seems to be the norm, with some movements at around 33000. Sort of looks like a step back in time. I know that they use their own in house movements, but it seems like it would be just as easy to build a fast beat.

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Just a touch off the subject, but does anyone have a plausible reason as to why AP uses a relatively slow beat movement, when the trend for years has been a movement toward faster beat movements? 28800 seems to be the norm, with some movements at around 33000. Sort of looks like a step back in time. I know that they use their own in house movements, but it seems like it would be just as easy to build a fast beat.

This gets invovled in another subject about the stability, slow beat movement is more stable than higher beat movement, whereas hand goes smoother for higher beat movement.  ;)

 

and also AP values more about other aspects of movement like polishing or materials used, the beat maybe is not the priority...

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and.. what are you waiting for Mr. J? Time for one on your wrist, you think? ;)

 

A

Gotta see one on ur wrist first :p 

 

Afterall, it'd be rude to surpass the AP master. hehe

 

 

to OP:

 

Would you mind posting clearer pictures of the inner bezel? I think it would be helpful in also determining which is more accurate? 

 

Thanks in advance Chrono!

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Gotta see one on ur wrist first :p

 

Afterall, it'd be rude to surpass the AP master. hehe

 

 

to OP:

 

Would you mind posting clearer pictures of the inner bezel? I think it would be helpful in also determining which is more accurate? 

 

Thanks in advance Chrono!

Actually, I think that you have long surpassed me in your knowledge, having seen you flit from one AP thread to another, and your postings. You already know what to look out for, for each specific model, like you asking for the inner bezel pics on this one.. ;)

 

I would not be getting one Mr J, simply because I don't like yellow.. :lol:

Else you could bet your last watch that I would have bought this when it was first released.

 

Good luck, and I think its a watch that you would truly like!

 

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The lume on the H is slightly yellowish.....not good.

+1

 

PS. Thanks for the picts Chrono, but i think you missed the zoom on the H factory, alittle blurry to see the details. The bezel markers are quite well made I'd have to say. 

 

@ Mr.A, for an AP we could be colorblind =D, the model and design on the CF could overwhelm the yellow, or did i mean your preferred color, orange? =D

Edited by folex
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i think you missed the zoom on the H factory, alittle blurry to see the details. The bezel markers are quite well made I'd have to say. 

Both of the two watches are returned now, the pic are taken a while before when I have them... do not realize take a macro pic of the inner bezel though... :wounded1:

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