chris5264 Posted December 12, 2013 Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 I'm sure this link has been posted many times...but I just find it so entertaining to watch...I'm such a watch geek that for me,,,this is almost as relaxing as actually working on a movement. I just don't like rotors....they get in the way...And while a very interesting invention on their own,,,its like inventing a replacement for something one actually enjoys....I like winding... and what I like about this link is that it gives an oil guide....ever notice that some of your watches are hard to pull out to set the time? this shows exactly what needs oil.. http://www.eta.ch/swisslab/6497/6947.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fraggle42 Posted December 12, 2013 Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 It is good. Seen it before, need to save it to disk really so I can so I can play / pause / refer to it at the workbench. One thing they don't mention is the quantity of oil. I assume one drop, but what size dropper to use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris5264 Posted December 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 i go w the smallest...heard once better to under oil rather than over.. open to more experienced opinions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fraggle42 Posted December 12, 2013 Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 I think you're right, under oil is always better than over in these cases. Also things like if you're oiling a stem / shaft, do you put the drop of oil on and then work it all around and evenly up and down the length? Or just leave it as a drop and let the natural action of the watch distribute the oil? And oiling jewels, is the drop placed in the recess? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris5264 Posted December 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 Well...I put a few drops on the stem where it is suggested and then move it around a little with a piece of watch paper....but I think it would move around on its own...but what do I know...having trouble getting the gear train to line up today.....lol... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted December 13, 2013 Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 "One thing they don't mention is the quantity of oil. I assume one drop, but what size dropper to use?" http://www.nawcc-index.net/Articles/BTI-The_Practical_Lubrication_of_Clocks_and_Watches.pdf 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirdiesel Posted December 13, 2013 Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 It is good. Seen it before, need to save it to disk really so I can so I can play / pause / refer to it at the workbench. One thing they don't mention is the quantity of oil. I assume one drop, but what size dropper to use? i believe there is a legend you can click to the right with different oil pipettes to use... By the way thats pretty epic anyone could dissassemble and re-assemble. i'm impressed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ceejay Posted December 13, 2013 Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 Before you start pulling your 6497's apart to service them a word of warning...it's NOT as easy as it looks in that little animation. Taking it apart is easy but theres a few things that is not shown. The barrel is not taken apart to show the mainspring. Servicing of the mainspring is crucial and removing and replacing it requires a special tool. The balance jewels are not removed on this animation, this is another crucial and often overlooked part of a service, it's also a tricky operation. When you have it in pieces do you have the right equipment to clean the parts? if you do not then you are wasting your time. If you think you will be doing good putting oil on to a dirty movement, think again. That will just act like a grinding paste and stop your movement. Do you have peg wood to peg out/polish your jewel holes? Do you know how to replace the balance [censored] so that the impulse pin correctly engages with the pallet lever? When replacing the bridges do you know how to check that all your pinions are seated properly, if you do not you can easily end up with a bent/broken pivot. You should be using a grease on the winding stem, also if you get oil where it is not supposed to be it will 'creep' away and into parts of the movement that could effect timekeeping or stop the watch. Oh, and don't forget to put a TINY drop of oil onto the faces of the pallet stones, you will need a very steady hand and good magnification to do this properly Don't put oil anywhere else on the escapement Just a little insight into what seems like an easy movement to work on Good luck guys 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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