Looking for a Rolex GMT-MASTER II replica

[sam_ak]

Hi everyone,

I'm new to this website and I don't know how it works yet. I'm looking for a GMT-Master II (steel and yellow gold) replica. Could anyone please guide me on how to start? Should I look for traders on the forum. I have no idea what to do and how to start.

 

Also, among all rolex replica, which model is a better match to the  original. Even though I love GMT-Master II, but if submariner are mostly recommended, then I think I would want to get a submariner.

 

Thanks very much for your help.

-Sam

Edited January 11, 2014 by sam_ak

[247Tinker]

Sam,

 

Let me give you my opinion and experience and maybe that might help, as I was where you were several years ago. The trusted dealer recommended here are good to work with - Joshua and Andrew are professional and straight forward, they seem to be the top dealers. I have purchased from both.

 

I have both Rep Subs and GMTs.

 

Subs:

I have one 116610 TT Ceramic Sub with a Swiss ETA movement. It is flawless in my opinion and I have compared. It was my first big step and my worries were put to rest. I have another Vintage Sub, it is actually my second as the other just died after several months. Both have/had a Asian 2813 movement. It was inexpensive compared to the TT with the ETA movement. The second one runs like a champ and I have adjusted the timing so it is actually one of my most accurate. I actually ware it the most as it is lighter, inexpensive and if it gets knocked around I don't worry. I am trying to get a replacement movement for the broken one and will give that to a friend. I have another Black Ceramic Sub with an Asian movement however first the pearl fell out and could not get the replacement to stay no matter what glue I used. Then the bezel fell off. Still runs but looking for a case assembly and will swap out the movement and put in the replacement bezel, maybe a blue - just tinkering around.

 

GMTs:

I have one Coke with a Asian Movement with the separate adjustment for the 24 hour hand. Runs like a champ. I just purchased a new Black and Blue Ceramic GMT Asian Movement. It has some quality issues! Everything is there and the separate pieces are good quality however the alignment of the Dial to the movement/case is miss-aligned. I reviewed the QC pics and discussed with the trusted dealer and was told that it was the camera angle, however when I got the watch he was wrong! Also the Stem got stuck and I was about to throw the watch in the repair pile. Messed with it for awhile and now it is working again. I will wear it to cut the lawn or give it to a friend. On a good note I like the look of the Black and Blue ceramic and am looking to replace it with and Swiss ETA Movement.

 

I like the Rolex look but I think in the future I will swing toward a Swiss ETA version over the Asian movements. I think the factories pays more attention to there detail so you get a more quality rep. +Cost=+Quality

 

Read a lot of the posts. Were good people on this forum

 

A lot of words but hope it helps

 

Tinker

[panerai153]

I pretty much agree with what 247 wrote. I will add some caveats. First, the supply of ETA movements has gotten so tight and so expensive the rep makers who are selling ETA movements  are using old movements that are cannibalized from older watches. Most if not all of these movements are dry, dirty and some are worn out. So if you get an ETA, I would factor in a movement service.

 

There are some really nice Submariner reps out there, you just need to read and do your research. one question that I always ask (After getting burned a couple of times) Is the case  gen like in construction, and will it take genuine parts. Some do, some don't if you buy one that doesn't it's difficult or impossible to mod the watch. If it takes genuine parts, then at some time in the future you can "Dress it Up" with a gen crystal, dial, crown, bezel. insert, etc.

GMT reps. by and large they are all pretty good, of course you need to get one with a solid movement. I would recommend the 2836, but that's your choice. The ceramic GMT IIC's have incorrect hand stack (ICHS)movements (Correct hand stack movements may be available from some dealers) The correct hand stack(CHS) movements used to be a "ticking time bomb" reliability wise, but I understand they are better. Again I would buy one with the ability to accept gen parts. The biggest tell on the GMT is of courser the hand stack, but if you have seen genuine bezels and inserts, it's and easy tell, as the genuine has deeper cut bolder numbers with real platinum, and the insert looks different, the bezel has a better click mechanism, is thicker and just looks better quality. Genuine crystals have better AR on the Cyclops as well. Like the submariner, the sky's the limit with both the submariner and GMT. If you get the correct cases, you can build a watch that will stand all but the closest scrutiny, and that only from someone who is a real expert on Rolex watches and has yours in hand.

 

I suggest that before you invest any money, you do some research look at a lot of photos and decide which route you want to go.

[Gw4k]

Consider the vintage sd as a quality rep out of the box too

[rek001]

The GMT IIc is one of my favorite Rolexes. Unfortunately I can't live with the flaws of the rep - the thin bezel engravings and innacurate color, and the lack of cyclops AR.

If you can even get one, isn't a gen replacement bezel expensive?

[panerai153]

I believe that at the very least the insert needs to be changed, and better if the whole bezel assembly is changed. Also a gen crystal is still better than the AR'ed rep crystals. I suppose the biggest tell of all is the incorrect hand stack. If you can get one with the correct hand stack, that would be a plus. If you can get that movement in one that will accept genuine parts, that's another BIG plus.
Here are a couple of photos of my GMTIIC.  Case that accepts gen parts, genuine bezel and insert, genuine crystal  and soon to have a genuine dial as well. Just waiting for the word from my guru. I don't have the CHS movement. My watchmaker says that it may be a problem to fit a genuine dial on the CHS movement, as the gen dial is thicker and the CHS movement is taller.



"Black Hole" effect of genuine AR'ed Cyclops



Bezel comparison, genuine on Right, note the bolder numbers. Platinum color different from the Painted numbers on rep bezel insert. Also the bezel is more robust



 

[automatico]

I like GMTs too but never had much luck with any type of tutone model with plated bezels and center links. The bracelet plating tends to wear off and the bezel plating is a target for nicks and scratches.

 

About 8 or 10 years ago you could buy GMT II with new swiss eta movements (not scrounged up Eta put-togethers) with a simple 24 hour conversion that was basically trouble free. The hand stack was not correct but they were dead nuts reliable. They used swiss Eta 2836-2 movements with an Asian 24 hour hand drive running off the day of the week works.

Then Swatch/Eta cracked the whip on movement availability/prices and the Asian etaclones started showing up and things went downhill from there imho. The etaclones came in two flavors...chs and ihs, some with adj 24H hands, some without...the models without adj 24H hands usually had the same 24H drive as the swiss Eta GMT.

The 'old reliable' (Ha!) Asian '21 jewel' powered models have been around from the beginning and I still have a few from 1994 that still run but I would not time a rocket launch with one. As with many '21 jewel' models you have to move around a lot during the day to keep them running all night. Working on the damn things will turn your brown eyes blue.

I never cared much for the newer ceramic bezel models but most will have Asian etaclones or '21 jewelers' of one sort or another.

 

I have not seen aluminum bezel insert GMT II with new swiss Etas for sale in a long time. A new swiss Eta 2836 movement cost almost as much now as a complete watch with one in it 8 or 10 years ago.

My pick of them all is the earlier aluminum bezel GMT II with swiss Eta and ics.

 

 

And then there are submariners...

Who makes the best sub?