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Let there be bevels


dbane883

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I've cut bevels by hand before (most notably on my 6538 phong case). 100% accuracy is not necessarily required on a 50+ year old case because the cases need to be slightly weathered. But using a Dremel will result in the angle of the bevel varying slightly and the edges being slightly rounded. To the naked eye at arm length, it can be perfectly fine. But my goal for the past year was to be able to maintain the same exact angle throughout the bevel run from lug tip to lug tip. This cannot be achieved if either the cutting tool or the case is hand held.

I use about 6 different abrasives discs and can maintain the angle exactly the same through each of the disc changes. It's a tedious process but worth the effort.

In a similar fashion, the case sides and bezels can also be shaped and polished.... Either with a mirror or satin finish.

I have seen some of ABC's work and it is impressive for the most part. I've seen some questionable examples too.. I have no idea how they cut their bevels/chamfers, but my guess is that they hand hold the cases ala old-school. Would be curious to see what lapping machine they use.

At any rate, there's always room for improvement in our collective pursuit of perfection.

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Here's an example of why there are no bevels (chamfers) on modern Rolexes: 

 

TudorBlackBay3_zps96aa2326.jpg

 

This is a macro of a Tudor BB.   Note how the bevel varys from thick to thin, back to thick.  The top edge sharpness is ok, but the side edge has been rounded over.  This is not very well done if you ask me.  The mid-case was clearly hand-held when it was cut and then the sides were finish-polished later.  Frankly, this case should have been rejected.

 

 

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If you read the current Hodinkee article (pretty good article) it states that all Rolex cases are hand polished - assuming the same for Tudor, you would get this. 

Bane, I assume you are using a mechanical method to guide the case along the lapping machine to maintain angle?

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thats a good article:  http://www.hodinkee.com/blog/inside-rolex

 

Even on modern Rolexes, there will be varying thickness of crown guards and other assymetric characteristics.

 

Yes, my cases travel along 3 axiis to get the right geometry.  A CNC could produce similar angles, but the finish would have to be hand done - which would then remove the  crispness of the edges. Case sides however still need to be rouged on a wheel.

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