How2make a LEGACY-GPF strap [pics heavy]

[ricardmg]

Hi!

Resting in my little flat by the sea this summer, I received an order from a kind customer, very satisfied with last strap made for him. Although I was in holidays, I had a 'lite' kit for strapmaking with me, so I accepted only this order, a very special order I want to share with all users.

Customer asked me for a LEGACY strap for PAM (strap series usually made for Tudor Black Bay watches) but adding a sewn GPF-mod buckle. I suggested to submit the buckle to an aging process into the sea, because strap will be for a Homage vintage watch project and it will look better instead of 'brand new' buckle. Here I'll show all the process done from the beginning. This is... HOW2MAKE a LEGACY-GPF strap...

First I show you the beach where I use to enjoy my holidays...

Well... I started aging treatment for 3 buckles, one for customer strap (26mm), another for having other strap in stock and for upcoming 'pro' pics (24mm) and last buckle for future strap (24mm).

Buckles were brand new...

First step was a fresh bath, tying buckles using fishing line to avoid lost of any buckle. After 3 hours of free surfing, next step.

Second step was 'gravel and sand hand-brushing'...

and stone brushing...

Here are the buckles after first day in the beach.

After that, I submerge buckles into the sea overnight, tying them to a rock in a hidden corner of the coast...

Meanwhile I started straps, one in 26/26mm for the customer and the other one in 24/24mm. Both 130/80mm. I chose Siena brown for back side and Legacy leather from a spanish tannery.

Cutting 4 pieces, larger than 130mm and 80mm

I use to bend backside for best fitting once strap is finished. Coming up next, I cut Legacy leather, larger than backside leather because is necessary to do lug and buckle holes. Is not necessary to cut this leather exactly because I'll do it later.

Next step is to glue backside and Legacy leather, putting on glue generously...

Wait a couple of minutes and hitch both pieces firmly. After this step, cut excess leather with scissors.

and we have preliminary straps...

At the morning after rescue buckles from the sea and make another hand brushing with gravel, sand and stones, was the moment of a glass of champagne...

Well, not exactly champagne... maybe better a mixture of salty water, sulfhidric acid, copper coins and gravel for these buckles.

And wait one day...

This was the result of corrosion...

Nice, isn't it?

Meanwhile, watching some old movies in the TV at the same time, I was continuing the straps...

Next step was to add a thin leather piece for lug and buckle holes, to improve durability and best fitting:

Cutting excess leather in the sides and measuring always 26/26mm and 24/24mm

For making lug holes, I use a simple toothpick as you can see...

I engage both sides once glue is dry...

Here you can see lug holes done in both straps...

Buckles were submerged again into the sea, so I continued with straps...

Next step was 'edge cut' in large strap part. You can see how I use to do, measuring 130mm in this case and using a cutting tool.

But the edges need something special for this strap, isn't it?

I applied my 'secret formula'...

Do you like it? :thumbup:

Next step was keeper. Customer wanted one big fixed keeper, so I made as silicone PAM straps, one one keeper but not floating, fixed, instead of 2 small keepers (one fixed and another one floating). For this strap, one keeper gives more vintage looking and I prefer because fits very well once is finished.

I cut a small piece of Legacy leather, pasting calf leather in the back side, pasting keeper in the small part of strap.

and we got it!

Do you remember the buckles?

After long time into the sea, I rescued and applied last brushing treatment for taking away oxide.

Buckles finished, more or less 30 years of aging, having a fresh bath in the sea again ready for fitting straps...

Next step in the straps was to cut buckle pin hole, 4 mm width...

And this is how both straps look with sewn aged buckles...

Next step is stitching hole picking... I start with large strap part from edge to case side.

And when large strap is pricked, I make small strap part measuring it with large strap part from case side to buckle side...

I holed buckle side end...

And now, strap is ready for stitching...

Customer wanted dark brown stitching, so I made it and stitched the other strap using natural white thread...

What do you prefer? Brown or natural white...? :thumbup:

Now is time for buckle pin holes in the strap. I made 3,5mm of diameter holes, measuring first hole at 55mm from case end, and the marking 4 holes more using a template for 26mm and another template for 24mm.

And last step... (I use to put a paperboard piece in the back side to avoid undesirable marks on it)

And here I introduce these 2 beautiful straps...

Legacy-GPF 130/80-26/26mm brown stitching...

Legacy-GPF 130/80-24/24mm natural white stitching...

Both together...

And fitting a PAM 111:

I hope customer like it, and you...

Thanks for looking!

 

 

Edited September 11, 2015 by ricardmg

[paulvillo]

That is pure beauty!

Love your pics, they're so beautiful and that detailed how-to is a feast for the eyes!

Congrats, amazing work and skills.

[ricardmg]

Both straps sold, but third aged buckle still available for making last strap like the others... Anyone interested?

[martijnp]

Awesome pictures. You live in a beautiful location in Barcelona. I love that city! 

THanks for sharing

[gasebah]

Hats off to you Sir. Excellent work and nice tutorial.