Blancpain Fifty Fathoms- Addrerssing those pesky lugbars!!

[panerai153]

It looks like interest has waned somewhat for the BP Fifty Fathoms models. Some of this may be attributed to the market being satiated, or it could be a combination of relatively high prices, the lack of new versions, and the step backward in accuracy of the V2 & V3 S/S Black dial. But for those of us who have the watches, there seems to be a recurring theme no matter what model, what tool do we use to change out straps. There have been several threads on this, even on the genuine forums, where the problem persists as well. Some of the first threads on the various forums advised using a Torx screwdriver to unscrew the threaded end caps. Problem was/is, different size Torx screwdrivers were needed. however they seemed to do the job. After reading another thread a couple of days ago from someone who was trying to figure out what tool was needed, I thought about recommending Torx as well, as I had used them to change the strap on my Rose Gold. Before recommending anything, I decided to google Blaincpain Fifty Fathoms Spring bars. It lead me to quite a few discussions both on the rep forums as well as gen forums.
Reading about the springbar dilemma, it was soon apparent that the Torx screwdriver was the wrong tool for the job. The guys on the gen forums were all pretty angry at Baincplain, as they would not sell the proper tool, and required the watch be sent in to an AD just for strap changes!! Probably OK if you were in a city with a convenient BP AD, not so good if you were 3-4 hundred miles away. So actually , we have it pretty good, as we are able to remove the end caps, usually with not too much trouble. Another problem with the gens, BP uses some type of thread locker on the screws, so even with the proper tool the screw must be heated to release the thread locker. Some of the more ingenious guys were able to figure out that the gen end caps used a .9mm Hex head Allen wrench.
After reading through forum discussions on both rep and gen, I decided to have a look at the screw caps on my BP RG as well as my BP Blue dial. I took some close up photos of the ends to let everyone see what we are encountering. My Rose gold has had one strap change from the rep strap to a gen strap, my Blue has not been touched except when the strap was attached at the factory.
One thing that was pretty apparent to me after looking at the photos, these screw ends are constructed of very soft metal. As you can see from the photos, the original hex heads have been distorted and you can see the grooves cut by the Torx screwdriver. Any decent metal with proper hardness would not be recontured like this.

The first  photos are the screw caps on my Rose Gold. as you can see, they are pretty "boogered up". I am concerned that over time, the Torx screwdriver will completely round out the opening and there will be no way to remove the screw end. The one in the first photo is the best of the lot, it still retains the hex shape

The next  one is not so good, you can see the grooves where the Torx screwdriver bit distorted the metal.



The next photos are the Blue dial, no strap changes and it's pretty easy to see the distinctive hex heads

 

 

So what did I conclude from this. First off, you need to be very careful when changing out the screws. Just looking at these photos, it's pretty apparent that the correct tool is necessary. Using a Torx bit is probably fine as long as you are careful that it's the correct size and is not slipping and rounding out the inside of the screw head. If I were starting with a fresh set of screw ends, I believe that I would try to see if I could find a proper hex head Allen wrench. Another alternative is to use a fat 23mm Spring bar like the Seiko bars. I have a V1 incoming and the owner told me that he lost one of the screw ends the first day he had the watch. He purchased a set of tubes from Essinger which need to be cut down slightly, but the screw end works with the original bar. So that is and alternative. Another alternative is purchase a set of genuine bars from a BP AD. Downside of this is the expense, the bars with screw ends are around 40.00 USD each. So a set would be 80 bucks per watch!! That's pretty steep for a set of bars.

So there are definitely several alternatives, everyone has to decide which one they are going to use. I would say if you are into frequent strap changes, then the Fat Seiko bars might be the best alternative. Replacing the hex head end screws with the Essinger slotted would also be and alternative. Finding the correct size hex head wrench is another. .9mm is the correct size for the gen but it might not fit the rep. Torx bits have been and are being used, just be careful that you get the correct one and be mindful that over time the Torx is going to completely distort the original contour of the screw end. It's just too bad that the makers didn't use better quality material for these screw ends as well as using a standard size that would accept the correct hex head wrench, problem solved!!

 

After a lot of thinking and looking, I contacted a friend who has a genuine BP Fifty Fathoms. luckily he lives pretty close by.  I asked him if he had ever changed out the strap on his FF. He told me that he had a couple of times, but always seemed to go back to the OEM sailcloth strap. I told him what I was doing and asked if he could stop by at his convenience and let me try the genuine lugbars in my latest addition A V1 BP FF. I told him that I was thinking about trying to find a set of gen lugbars, but I didn't want to shell out 80 bucks or so only to find that didn't fit. He agreed to come over if I supplied a "wee dram" of single malt!! Yesterday he came over and we sat at my bench and removed the lugbars with the two 0.9mm hex drivers he brought over. Much to my surprise and delight they fit!! I was able to take some close up photos of the screw ends and the hex driver we used.

 

While this is a welcome update and certainly adds another option to the question of what to use for  the lugbars on your FF, it is a rather expensive option. I don't see a lot of folks rushing out to a BP AD ands springing for a set of genuine lugbars.I would expect that some folks will if they know in advance that the OEM lugbars will fit their watch, just as some folks have sprung for a genuine sailcloth strap.

 

Photos of the correct hex driver and OEM screw heads

 

 

 

 

 

So there you are, the OEM lugbars on a BP FF V1.

 

Here are my conclusions  and  a bit about each:

 

1. Lugbars that come standard with your watch

Pros: You already got em

         Fine if you never change the strap, or are very careful

         fit very nicely in the lugholes

Cons: Very soft and easy to round out the screw ends if not very careful

         Must purchase  Torx Screwdrivers or file down a Hex driver(s) The 0.9mm Hex driver that fits the OEM Screwheads WILL NOT fit the rep screw heads.

         they are too small

 

2. Essinger bars and screw ends

Pros: Cheap and available

         Screw ends will work with the rep bars

Cons: Screw heads are slotted, and the ones I got were a little too big and did not fit inside the lugholes, aesthetically not very nice. And a dead giveaway,  

         if someone with knowledge of  gens looks closely.

 

3. Seiko "Fat" springbars (Or equivalent)

Pros: Cheap, readily available

        Makes strap changes very easy and quick

Cons: The shouldered springbars don't fit well inside the lugholes, never having tried them, I cannot say, but if only the very end of the springbar

         fits inside the lugholes, they don't look very secure.

 

4. OEM Lugbars

Pros: Look great, fit well

         Very secure

         Strap changes pretty easy with the proper tools

Cons: EXPENSIVE!!!   

 

What would be a great alternative would be 23mm shoulderless springbars like the "fat" 2mm ones used in Vintage Rolex sport watches with lugholes. Unfortunately, despite searching all over the internet, I could not find any source for 23mm Shoulderless springbars.   

 

That is my summation of the various lugbar  options available for the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms

 

[Phener9]

Thanks for this post the and I concur with everything you have said here, Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is my favourite watch so getting the right fittings is essential

So spring bars will work but they are an easy fix don't satisfy the perfectionist in me, so I am working on Titanium torx head screws these are going to be hard and strong and a big improvement on the stock hex screws which are really quite soft and easily chewed up. Also the Torx head are going to look so much better.

I will have to buy far more than I need and the screws are too long and will need cutting down my question is would enough people be interested in buying a set of four from me to make this feasable.

I am hoping to cut these down to size with a Dremel 

You're thoughts please.

 

[DonDucker]

This was a very helpful post... Initially I was set on the JLC Diver but kin of leaning towards the BBFF I think the bigger size will be a great fit alongside my Sub.

My only hesitation was the inability to easily change straps... but this seams like a good hack. 

By changing to the OEM Lugbars or the SEIKO this should be very easy to change straps.

 

Can someone tell me what the 'tells' are wit this watch?

And am I correct with that the ZF Black is the most accurate version?

Some ppl might find this link of comparison shots between a noob, ZF and Gen interesting (unfortunately in Chinese but pictures are helpful). 

http://tieba.baidu.com/p/5145026194

 

as far as I can tell the ZF looks very much like Gen... but are there any direct known tells?

 

[archierocks]

I've struggled for ages getting spring bars that fit still on the hunt if anyone has any please let me know 

[eunomians]

I've struggled for ages getting spring bars that fit still on the hunt if anyone has any please let me know 

23mm Seiko ‘heavy duty’ spring bars fit great on both the rep and genuine 50 Fathoms. I am sharing from my personal empirical experience with both