BP vs ARF 126600 Seadweller

[Cross7]

Here are my thoughts and some of the current crop of 126600 seadwellers. I’m by no means an expert, so these are my basic observations.

 

I currently have 3 different 126600s. I bought the first cheaper version from BP when that was released. Obviously there were a number of issues with that version such as the wrong bracelet width, small font on the insert and the wrong pearl size, shape and height.

 

I haven’t been fortunate enough to see a gen 126600 in the flesh, so my observations are based on comparisons with photos and videos of the gen which obviously doesn’t compare to seeing the real thing.

 

I then bought the BP ‘best’ version when it was released. This addressed the biggest issues, particularly the bracelet width and bezel insert. The pearl on the bezel is lower like the gen but the profile doesn’t look exactly the same as the gen pearl to me. It looks more like a lowered version of a deepsea pearl. The font size and colour seems pretty good and the bezel action is smooth but not too slack, which is good.

 

Recently I also bought the ARF version. For me this is the best version so far. The bezel insert looks particularly stunning. The font colour is lighter and looks much better in low light than the BP best version. The BP colour is lighter than noob v7 but the ARF is lighter than the BP. Also, the font is slightly larger on the ARF bezel but this seems correct when I’ve compared it to gen photos. The BP font is slightly larger than the font on the deepsea v7 but not as large as ARF.

 

The Cyclops on the ARF is also slightly smaller than that on the BP and the magnification seems slightly less.

 

It is true that the bezel teeth are sharper on the ARF compared to the BP and you can feel it when you turn it. On my particular ARF, the bezel action is the most disappointing part compared with the BP. The ARF has more of a rocking action when you press down on it and the action when turned is quite loose and sloppy. I’ve noticed it moving during general daily wear. The action on the BP is much firmer and it does not rock in the same way. This, however, may be just the watch I have. Other ARFs might not have this issue.

 

Both bracelets feel and look good. I’m still in two minds about the 904L thing. At first glance there doesn’t seem to be a difference at all when you compare the 904L and the 316L. However, in certain lights, to me especially in low light, the 904L does seem to reflect the light with more ‘lustre’. I’m not sure if this is an actual difference or wishful thinking.

 

Both the BP best and ARF looked good on the QC pics but on closer inspection once arrived, the cyclops is a tiny bit off being straight and the pearl is not absolutely dead centre on the BP. Everything is spot on on the ARF.

 

There is a difference in the weight of the watches. All the weights are taken with 2 links removed from the bracelets. The original ‘cheap’ BP is 163g, BP ‘best’ is 175g and the ARF is 181g.

I have to say that I’ve messed about with the BP cheap version. I swapped out the pearl for an old style one I had hanging around and I swapped the original insert for an old noob deepsea one I had. The insert fit perfectly but it is about half the thickness of the 126600 insert, so it now sits lower down in the bezel a fraction. 

 

In all the photos the original cheap BP version is BP1 and it has the white deepsea insert, not its original.

 

Both the BP best and the ARF are great watches but the bezel insert on the ARF is the thing that clinches it for me.

[Drifterr]

Great review and summary. thank you.

ARF is the clear winner here.


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[Legend]

Thank you@cross7 for the in-depth review.


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[Replica01]

Great review!

Verstuurd vanaf mijn F5321 met Tapatalk

[Cross7]

Cheers for the feedback. Much appreciated.

[Dorian1984]

well done dude !!! I'm already owning SD ARF and it's an amazing piece !!!

[Drifterr]

Mine says hello..

Stunning piece

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[Dorian1984]

Mine says Hi !!!

 

Edited January 5, 2018 by Dorian1984

[Jessekeeler]

Hey thanks for posting this. Fantastic detailed review and pictures. Just trying to decide which one to go for myself. Strange thing is the TD I’m in talks with is insistent that the BP Factory version has a superior case bezel and strap over the ARF 904l which they also sell. From what I can see and have read, the ARF just looks crisper to me and it’s the right steel. Would be great to get some extra feedback before I dive in! I think I’ve read the ARF is on its version 2 and maybe my TD has the original. Is there a way to tell?

 

thanks guys

[Drifterr]

Hey thanks for posting this. Fantastic detailed review and pictures. Just trying to decide which one to go for myself. Strange thing is the TD I’m in talks with is insistent that the BP Factory version has a superior case bezel and strap over the ARF 904l which they also sell. From what I can see and have read, the ARF just looks crisper to me and it’s the right steel. Would be great to get some extra feedback before I dive in! I think I’ve read the ARF is on its version 2 and maybe my TD has the original. Is there a way to tell?
 
thanks guys

That's cuz no one is buying the BP version and there is plenty of stock..lol

You need to make your own assessment and decision. At the end of the day you will be wearing it.

General consensus is that arf version is superior, but there are some positives on the BP version as well.



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[Jessekeeler]

6 minutes ago, Drifterr said:

That's cuz no one is buying the BP version and there is plenty of stock..lol

You need to make your own assessment and decision. At the end of the day you will be wearing it.

General consensus is that arf version is superior, but there are some positives on the BP version as well.



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It looks superior to me and yeh it’s what I thought. Trying to shift older stock to make way for the 904l stock. Has there only ever been 1 version of this 904l ARF SD? Any recommendations on where to source one?

 

cheers. 

[Legend]

1 hour ago, Jessekeeler said:

It looks superior to me and yeh it’s what I thought. Trying to shift older stock to make way for the 904l stock. Has there only ever been 1 version of this 904l ARF SD? Any recommendations on where to source one?

 

cheers. 

you can buy it from any dealer. Very slight variances in prices (couple of bucks) and ultimately it's about establishing a relationship with your chosen dealer to get better deals down the road.

www.intime02.c0

www.puretime05.com 

 

To get you started.

[508-Fanatic]

Better deals down the road? How long is this road? lol ;-) haha

[Legend]

2 hours ago, 508-Fanatic said:

Better deals down the road? How long is this road? lol ;-) haha

long enough, A my friend, for us to build relationships with fellow members, and TDs too.

 

 

[occb2]

I wanted too add a few things here.  

 

From the orig. post, the OP is talking about the rocking action on the bezel of the ARF when pushed down.  This is very normal on a REAL Rolex.  That is why the clicks are on springs.  It is made so when downward pressure is made on the bezel it is easier to rotate and the locking click stops it from going back, even though on a real 116610 there still is a slight back movement.  

 

On the pre ceramic versions rolex put the tension gasket in to perform this action, so when you would push down the tension gasket released pressure and you could rotate it easier.  Anyone who builds rolexes or reps knows that the tension washer sucks if not perfect.  If it is off at all it will lock your bezel and you wont be able to move it at all.  This is why I use Rolex parts, from crystal ring to bezel to tension washer and insert.

 

Back to the ARF.  The sharpness of the ARF bezel can be taken care of by a simple mod.  If you want them duller then make them duller.  Take pics of a real one and work the bezel teeth to look like the real one. Where jeweler magnifying shades and go too town.  

 

I am very close to cancelling my order of the real 126600.  Only thing stopping me is the possibility of price increase. But I dont think it will be there.  History would show it would be but China has gotten so good at Cloning a Rolex that I dont think 40 years from now that this watch will be like a 60 red sub.  Why because there will be so many clones by that point and probably undetectable.  Think about this hobby and how it has grown in the past 5 years! Hell I can take a noob case and build a perfectly all Rolex 116610LN minus the mid case!  Think when they use 904L and get the rehaut engraving down.  Then the bracelet!  They will use 904 and have that down.  

 

So when my 126600 come in I will most likely flip it ASAP.  That is the only reason I am letting them have my deposit.  LOL.  I am so close to ordering the ARF and just modding the crap out of it.  I have the ETA2824 for it already.  I was hopping for one too pop up on M2M over at RWI but it has been down.  The ARF so far was the closest I have seen.  There is another thread over at RWI where we are talking about the dial.  When I went and ordered it I looked at the Rolexes Display watch and didn't notice if it had a matted dial.  I was wearing my sub and it looked extremely similar to my 116610LN dial.  But the red popped out.  Very RED.  But I have seen pics now in out side videos and pictures, where it has a matted look.  So I am actually thinking of going back to NYC for a day and looking at the display again and see if they allow me too take a picture of it.  I am dying to know.  I dont know anyone who has the real one.  But I know the sea dweller ceramic does have a matted effect on the dial so maybe they did this one the same.  So these are the reasons I am not buying the ARF yet.  The movement with a new ETA will last for years.  The dial, if I can get it correct, amazing.  I will mod the bezel to be what I want it too be.  I want the 904L just for the difference in feeling of the bands.  Extremely excited about how far our hobby has come in the last few years and cant wait for the future.

[Cross7]

7 hours ago, occb2 said:

I wanted too add a few things here.  

 

From the orig. post, the OP is talking about the rocking action on the bezel of the ARF when pushed down.  This is very normal on a REAL Rolex.  That is why the clicks are on springs.  It is made so when downward pressure is made on the bezel it is easier to rotate and the locking click stops it from going back, even though on a real 116610 there still is a slight back movement.  

 

On the pre ceramic versions rolex put the tension gasket in to perform this action, so when you would push down the tension gasket released pressure and you could rotate it easier.  Anyone who builds rolexes or reps knows that the tension washer sucks if not perfect.  If it is off at all it will lock your bezel and you wont be able to move it at all.  This is why I use Rolex parts, from crystal ring to bezel to tension washer and insert.

 

Back to the ARF.  The sharpness of the ARF bezel can be taken care of by a simple mod.  If you want them duller then make them duller.  Take pics of a real one and work the bezel teeth to look like the real one. Where jeweler magnifying shades and go too town.  

 

I am very close to cancelling my order of the real 126600.  Only thing stopping me is the possibility of price increase. But I dont think it will be there.  History would show it would be but China has gotten so good at Cloning a Rolex that I dont think 40 years from now that this watch will be like a 60 red sub.  Why because there will be so many clones by that point and probably undetectable.  Think about this hobby and how it has grown in the past 5 years! Hell I can take a noob case and build a perfectly all Rolex 116610LN minus the mid case!  Think when they use 904L and get the rehaut engraving down.  Then the bracelet!  They will use 904 and have that down.  

 

So when my 126600 come in I will most likely flip it ASAP.  That is the only reason I am letting them have my deposit.  LOL.  I am so close to ordering the ARF and just modding the crap out of it.  I have the ETA2824 for it already.  I was hopping for one too pop up on M2M over at RWI but it has been down.  The ARF so far was the closest I have seen.  There is another thread over at RWI where we are talking about the dial.  When I went and ordered it I looked at the Rolexes Display watch and didn't notice if it had a matted dial.  I was wearing my sub and it looked extremely similar to my 116610LN dial.  But the red popped out.  Very RED.  But I have seen pics now in out side videos and pictures, where it has a matted look.  So I am actually thinking of going back to NYC for a day and looking at the display again and see if they allow me too take a picture of it.  I am dying to know.  I dont know anyone who has the real one.  But I know the sea dweller ceramic does have a matted effect on the dial so maybe they did this one the same.  So these are the reasons I am not buying the ARF yet.  The movement with a new ETA will last for years.  The dial, if I can get it correct, amazing.  I will mod the bezel to be what I want it too be.  I want the 904L just for the difference in feeling of the bands.  Extremely excited about how far our hobby has come in the last few years and cant wait for the future.

Thanks. That’s great information there. I didn’t know that the rocking action is normal on a gen rolex. I’ve never had the good fortune to wear one, unfortunately.

 

[Jordanf1]

I wanted too add a few things here.  
 
From the orig. post, the OP is talking about the rocking action on the bezel of the ARF when pushed down.  This is very normal on a REAL Rolex.  That is why the clicks are on springs.  It is made so when downward pressure is made on the bezel it is easier to rotate and the locking click stops it from going back, even though on a real 116610 there still is a slight back movement.  
 
On the pre ceramic versions rolex put the tension gasket in to perform this action, so when you would push down the tension gasket released pressure and you could rotate it easier.  Anyone who builds rolexes or reps knows that the tension washer sucks if not perfect.  If it is off at all it will lock your bezel and you wont be able to move it at all.  This is why I use Rolex parts, from crystal ring to bezel to tension washer and insert.
 
Back to the ARF.  The sharpness of the ARF bezel can be taken care of by a simple mod.  If you want them duller then make them duller.  Take pics of a real one and work the bezel teeth to look like the real one. Where jeweler magnifying shades and go too town.  
 
I am very close to cancelling my order of the real 126600.  Only thing stopping me is the possibility of price increase. But I dont think it will be there.  History would show it would be but China has gotten so good at Cloning a Rolex that I dont think 40 years from now that this watch will be like a 60 red sub.  Why because there will be so many clones by that point and probably undetectable.  Think about this hobby and how it has grown in the past 5 years! Hell I can take a noob case and build a perfectly all Rolex 116610LN minus the mid case!  Think when they use 904L and get the rehaut engraving down.  Then the bracelet!  They will use 904 and have that down.  
 
So when my 126600 come in I will most likely flip it ASAP.  That is the only reason I am letting them have my deposit.  LOL.  I am so close to ordering the ARF and just modding the crap out of it.  I have the ETA2824 for it already.  I was hopping for one too pop up on M2M over at RWI but it has been down.  The ARF so far was the closest I have seen.  There is another thread over at RWI where we are talking about the dial.  When I went and ordered it I looked at the Rolexes Display watch and didn't notice if it had a matted dial.  I was wearing my sub and it looked extremely similar to my 116610LN dial.  But the red popped out.  Very RED.  But I have seen pics now in out side videos and pictures, where it has a matted look.  So I am actually thinking of going back to NYC for a day and looking at the display again and see if they allow me too take a picture of it.  I am dying to know.  I dont know anyone who has the real one.  But I know the sea dweller ceramic does have a matted effect on the dial so maybe they did this one the same.  So these are the reasons I am not buying the ARF yet.  The movement with a new ETA will last for years.  The dial, if I can get it correct, amazing.  I will mod the bezel to be what I want it too be.  I want the 904L just for the difference in feeling of the bands.  Extremely excited about how far our hobby has come in the last few years and cant wait for the future.

Here’s my gen SD4k





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[occb2]

God that is beautiful!  How long did you wait for it?  Im stuck on a waiting list at my AD.  He has tried too tell me to give an extra $2000 over list and I can have one asap but that doesn't sit well with me.  I will wait and cancel if I like the rep.  I have too many real Rolexes right now.  Might have to thin the heard.

There is a few things that stand out on the real one over the fake.  The grooves in the bezel are larger.  The crown is thinner and higher up.  The rehaut is polished.  Not a big deal as I can polish it.  But still.  I also saw on my QC pics that the date wheel is different and not correct.  I need to find a nice over lay.

[Jordanf1]

My watch guy bought 3 in Hong Kong 6 weeks ago , so I waited less than 3 weeks


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[occb2]

Did you pay over retail or less?  You got everything?  Box and papers?

[Drifterr]

Did you pay over retail or less?  You got everything?  Box and papers?

I doubt it you get it less than retail. Unless you buy plenty of gens from the same dealer.



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[Jordanf1]

Yes all boxes and papers I paid 16.5k AUD


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[Drifterr]

Yes all boxes and papers I paid 16.5k AUD


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That's great pricing . Retail on these in Aus in about 15.4k I believe.

Grey market these are selling for about 18k at today's conversion.



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[Jordanf1]

I doubt it you get it less than retail. Unless you buy plenty of gens from the same dealer.



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My watch guy owns 4 retail watch and jewellery stores he comes back with 2 suitcases of watches every trip to HK , put it this way I’ve never paid retail and nor does he , when you sell millions in watches and diamonds over the year you get what you want. Rrp vs wholesale Rolex to shop prices is not what everyone thinks the difference is not far off 40% and yes I’ve Seen Rolex invoices to a shop so I know what they pay and what price point to work too.


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[occb2]

That is almost $2000 over retail.  I will wait.  I hope this one fills the spot I have for it.  Dont want too drop that much.  I might sale my 116610 and my 116710. Those are all I have been wearing since I finished them.  Or I might break up a bunch of watches or sale them.  I have crazy builds.  All rolex and all rolex minus midcases.  My 16610LV which is all rolex but the phong midcase case, my 1680 which is all rolex but the phong mid case and I just finished a 16610 U serial number all Rolex.  I think if I brake them up or sale them as is I might have enough to cover the sea dweller with out going into my bank account.  Heck just in movements that is 2X3135's and one 1570.  Then LV dial and LV full bezel.  Parting it might be the way too go.

 

Man I hate getting bit by the rolex bug.  Last time I did this I had my AD hunt for a 2000 16610 for nostalgic reasons and I over paid!  Then my wife's Yachtmaster.  

 

Before I do anything I will wear the ARF for a few too see if I like it.

7 minutes ago, Jordanf1 said:

 

My watch guy owns 4 retail watch and jewellery stores he comes back with 2 suitcases of watches every trip to HK , put it this way I’ve never paid retail and nor does he , when you sell millions in watches and diamonds over the year you get what you want. Rrp vs wholesale Rolex to shop prices is not what everyone thinks the difference is not far off 40% and yes I’ve Seen Rolex invoices to a shop so I know what they pay and what price point to work too.


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Doing my math you paid a lot over retail.  Here in the USA the 122660 is $11,350.  I put $1000 down to order it.  Now if you paid 16,500 AUD at an exchange rate of .78 AUD to 1 USD that make is $12,926 USD.  So $1576 dollars over retail.  My AD is telling me to give them an extra $2000 and they will have it quick.  That is bad form.  I would never.  I remember my Porsche dealer trying too do that for my 911 turbo.  They wanted $15,000 over sticker and I would get it.  I drove to the next state PA which had a lot less people and brought it there and I drive it to my local to get the free oil changes!  It makes me sick when they try to screw us.  They are making crazy money on us already.  (I'm back talking about Rolex, although Porsche does too!) It is just greed to try too milk an extra $2000 out of us!