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occb2

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occb2 last won the day on July 16 2015

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About occb2

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    This just keeps on getting better...

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  1. My Rolex 116610LV

    Thanks brother.
  2. My Rolex 116610LV

    I'm going too just attempt to cut and paste my RWI post. But fall all of you who know me and that I brought a real 116610 case a few months ago. It ended up being a 116610LV serial number. Well I built it too a fully real 116610 but I used an LN bezel and LN dial. Well today I got too trade for a really nice 116610LV that was a noob V6S. it had a yuki from Craig and real full 116610LV bezel, real crystal. The yuki has a real auto winding bridge and a real date wheel. The 97200 on the V6S is real minus the clasp. The prior owner brought a new real 116610LV dial. So Here is what I did. I am going to just attempt to cut and paste the RWI thread. Ok. Here we go. I wasn't going too do it tonight but I just couldn't wait. Few things. The watch that I got from Therealgoat is good. It is a V6S and it has a real CAR crystal and it had a real hulk bezel that Zocker installed with a rigged up noob nylon ring. Therealgoat thought that it was a real crystal ring and it turned up too be just a noob one. Lucky for me, I have so many parts that I have a noob V7 bezel and nylon ring and I have it with a real rolex ceramic black insert. So my 116610LN 100% rolex bezel will stay as a back up. The case is in fact a V6S and in great condition. Someone went out of their way and engraved it really close to rolex engraving. Not bad. Not the standard noob engraving. The clicks are actually real rolex clicks too which is great. The 97200 is all rolex but the clasp. The two full sides are 100% Rolex. Happy with that too. The yuki is running amazing. Craig did it and it has a real date wheel and a real. auto winding bridge. I am thinking of putting a real 3135 in that bad boy. I put my real 116610LN dial in it. Here is the odd thing. The hands. Only the min hand is Rolex. The hour and seconds hand is noob. So I will be ordering a set of 116610 hands. At the end of the day this will be a case and clasp only fake 116610LN. The 116610LV is perfect! 100% Rolex down too the new nylon ring! The one on Therealgoats was a noob and destroyed. It was kind of an easy job. I just took my hands and dial off and put the new real 116610LV dial on it and repressed my real hands and popped it back in. As everyone knows pressing the ceramic bezel isn't hard. So that snapped in with the new nylon ring like it was made for it. Enough of me typing. Here are pictures. Here is the real dial too the left and the Noob V6S dial with the real bezel on the right. Showing the back of the 116610LV First thing I did was change the bezel on the real 116610. Now this case when I got it I had it run to see if it came up stolen and it was never registered and it came back as an LV. Which tonight it became whole again. For the last few months its been living as an full Rolex LN. Although if Rolex would offer this watch, the LN dial with the LV bezel, I would be all over it! Trust me, I thought of just leaving it like this! LOL. Now here I had to throw in the V6S with the Rolex 116610LN bezel in. This is the real dial on the real 3135 on the left. I wanted to compare the noob dial and the Rolex dial. Another shot of the Rolex dial on the 3135. This 3135 I have too thank a buddy at TRF. It is a brand new Replacement 3135. It came from the factory with factory test dial and holder. Same when I got the 3186 for my 116710LN. Great guy. Here is a shot before I put the real dial on the real 3135. When I put the watch back together. If all of you can see on the top of the pic. That pitting mark on the bottom. Because of that mark I got the real 116610LV case at a great deal. The final result! A fully authentic Rolex 116610LV made by me! Thanks too a bunch of people here and other forums. The final two parts, the dial and bezel assembly, I have too thank Dave for selling them to Therealgoat and for him falling in love with my 1680! LOL. Now too put my real dial on the Yuki 3135. I was debating on doing it now or to wait till I ordered the hands. But I have too many jobs open at my desk from my shoulder surgery so I decided to button it up and just replace the hands and maybe movement at a later date. This is just too show that the V6S band is a real 97200. The clasp is a V6S clasp though. I will find a real clasp somewhere down the road. The end result. Now this is a V6S case, real crystal and real bezel real dial real date wheel. Real min hand. LOL. I will put all real hands in ASAP. The Yuki is a Craig Yuki running in top shape with a real autowinding bridge. I may keep it till it dies or throw in a real 3135. I'll figure it out. That hour and seconds hand has too go! But end result of the V6S with all the real parts but the case and clasp and Yuki.
  3. The noob gmt isn’t a SA3135 which is their version of a clone 3135. They use a sa3186 which is a Asian eta clone with modifications to make the hand stack correct. What we are talking about is getting a Sh3135 and modifying it to be a true copy of a 3185. Then you will have a reliable movement that works as a Rolex 3185. You just need to have it fitted in the case by someone because the noobs are made for eta movements not Rolex or clone Rolex Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. ARF 116660 or ARF 126660

    Hey brother. I got the a 122660 yesterday in the mail. It is amazing. Really a great rep. I would say super rep. Looking at it there really no need to modify it. I will do some things to make it look better that is just because I can't stay still. But a nice polish on the rehaut will do wonders. Also on the bezel itself, it is very sharp. I am going to need to work it and soften it up. One more thing I have noticed it the date wheel. It has too go. So I am looking around for one. But I brought a new 2824 for it. I was stupid. The A2824 is running amazing. Lets see for how long. That are the only flaws. If you want too go nuts then there is one minor one. The crown on the dial is a little lower off the upside-down triangle. By just a little. I wonder if they are all like that or if its just mine. Here are a few pics. The SEL is perfect. The SCUBA link is perfect. Really nothing wrong. This is the first rep Rolex that I dont have too change the crown and tube. It is like butter. Feels are real as if I had put a real crown and tube in. They just go well. This week end I will be pressure testing it. I saw someone had done it too 8 ATM and it passed with flying colors. I can tell you after putting the bezel off too see what was under there, that crystal ring is pressed in perfectly so I have no doubt this sucker is sealed from the factory. All I can say is WOW to the ARF guys. One more shout out. Andrew over at Trusty time. You want too talk about customer service. My god. I have never been treated so well by an AD. Quality, quickness and extremely responsive. I will never go to another TD.
  5. http://trustytime.store/

    Anytime brother. That is why were are here. To help and learn from each other. While the demand for the movement from Yuki himself had drop drastically the demand for the movement hasnt. Everyone still wants a good 3135 clone. Few things has made this hobby blow up and set the preference's really high. 1)The invention of the clone 3135. Yuki or SH. Even the SA if parts were available. 2)The invention of Rolex spec cases. Use to be only phong and some Vietnam places. TC or Sean some WM9 ones. Noob is killing it. Coming out with the 116610 case that can fit every rolex part. Amazing. If they continue down that line the sky is the limit. A good working replica movement will last years. Add that to a real rolex spec case and add all rolex parts, dial, feet, date wheel crystal, bezel..... you have a watch that you can wear with pride. You have a watch that will never get called out. This is why I love his hobby so much. The pride of wearing a watch I made. Heck I build a rolex sub 16610 from all rolex parts. The movement, only the main plate was used. Every other part was new sealed in bolster package's. I didn't have all the screws because it is very hard too find a screw kit. So Mike (Misiekped) ordered them for me. I sent him the parts and it came back amazing. I took that and used rare 16610 dial with just SWISS on the bottom, used 16610 case with late U serial number which would match that dial. New sealed crystal ring. Used beat up bezel (ad character) new click spring and tension washer. NOS crystal with no ar and no LEC from sub007. 703 crown also from Sub007. New tube, I have in stock. New bezel insert. The bracelet had brand new 501b end links I had ahead of time sent my 93150 to Michael Young for service. Everything came back great but the clasp. But it closes and fits perfectly. This is a watch I wanted to build for a long time. Every part is rolex built by me. I call it a ROBEX. LOL. Really this is why we are all so close here on Rwg, Rwi, repgeeks. we all love this hobby and he satisfaction if gives. We all have the same purpose. To have the best rep possible. I have taken it to a little extreme LOL. People ask me, why dont I just buy a real one. Truth is I have. Lots of times. I get zero satisfaction from doing it. In fact everytime I get a pit in my stomach thinking why did I just drop $10,000 on a watch. I can tell you I have never had that feeling after building one. Its always satisfaction and happiness. Pride in a way. I show it off. Love it. Thanks to forums like this and guys like all you guys.
  6. BP vs ARF 126600 Seadweller

    Very nice. I will be testing the case and band as soon as I find a location. I dont see a difference in 904 and 316. TO me they are both good. But so far all the cases and bands that came out where ARF tabled 904 have passed as 904. So I dont see why this one won't. Rob
  7. BP vs ARF 126600 Seadweller

    Thank, Yea I will. I have a brand new top ETA 2824 sitting here that I got from startime. I am looking for the best date wheel cover. I would love to figure out how to get a real datewheel in there but there is just zero room too do that on an ETA 2824. But I will locate a date wheel then go to town. I'm going to polish the rehaut also and pressure check it. In time. I will just wear it for now. Thanks everyone.
  8. BP vs ARF 126600 Seadweller

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Few things I have too do too this. Polish the bezel. Take off all the sharpness. The date wheel is terrible. Looking for a TC. I will see. Need too put a fresh ETA 2824 top version. I will knock it out all at one bang. I will also verify how water proof it is. I will do a 6 bar test because that is all I have. one more thing too add. This is the first watch that the crown and tune are like butter. There is zero reason to update it. It words amazing. Same are the feeling from my real Rolexes.
  9. BP vs ARF 126600 Seadweller

    Yea. 4 days. That is sick. Watch is lovely too. Great condition. I notice a few faults. Datewheel font. Bezel us sharp few little other things but all in all very nice. Wears well.
  10. BP vs ARF 126600 Seadweller

    Mine came in as stated. I ordered this on the 7th today is the 11th. That is record time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pics Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. http://trustytime.store/

    I made it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. http://trustytime.store/

    Ok they are my new TD. Look what came in today Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. http://trustytime.store/

    No the factory that was making it for Yuki started making it for other dealers. Yuki is not a person. Its a family company. Do you remember the bombing in France a few years back? Well one of his family members died there. One of the guys and I were friendly and he messaged me saying that they were closing for a few weeks and going to the services. When I needed parts to repair yukis, I would contact them and they were really cheap. what they started too do was send me broken movements and I would use them for parts. It was hard at first. If I would order 10 yuki's. 4 were bad. I would used 6 and make a few parts movements. The ones that were worst. Yuki knew it. There were two versions of Yuki movements. One time after getting a bunch of the new ones, I got a combo batch. I called them and they had zero idea that there were 2. He doesn't work on movements. He was just the middle man. He brought them from a factory and sold them. What kills me is that now the TD's are selling them for $180. So lets say it cost the TD $100 and they are making $80 on it. If a movement cost Yuki $100 each. He was making $280 per movement and had a monopoly. That is what I started thinking back when I blasted him. They were ripping us off the whole time and when the JF factory started getting ready to sell the SH3135, Yuki tried to make as much as he could before the floor fell out from under them.
  14. http://trustytime.store/

    Yep as is the 3130 that you see on some movements. They are all the same main plate and parts that the factory that was selling too Yuki. They just got better. I dont know if you remember about a year and a half ago Yuki did a price increase. I just explained this in another post. He started charging all of us that were buying in bulk and cleaning them. He jacked up the price $60 a unit and charged shipping. Now the only ones that were going to suffer were the customers. A bunch of us said fine as long as he does some upgrades. He said no that the factory was charging him more now and it was going to have to have to get pass down too us. I wouldn't do it and I blasted him on RWI. Less than 3 months later the JF factory came out with all these watches with he "SH3135 and the SH3130". Tickle was the only one who actually continued with Yuki and became the exclusive USA distributer and repair guy. He did an evaluation on the SH3135 and found it to be a dressed up Yuki. He is the kicker. Yuki was charging almost $400 for the unit. You can get the SH3135 with the upgraded/decorated bridges from trusted dealers for $180. SMH. I still get a little heated when I think of it. While I want people too make money, don't rip us off. A yuki being almost $400 shipped needed service which is about $140. Then a date wheel which is $120 and autowinding wheels and winding wheelsX2 and cannon and hour pinion. Intermediate cal. wheel. Few other parts. Total in parts that I would change would cost someone anywhere between $400-700. Now do the math. min was $1020. Then it could go up too $1600. A real one back then was about $1800-2000. Then he wanted to charge another $60 plus shipping. LOL. It was just a losing battle. I tried to get him too see the light but he wrote me a letter, Me and Craig got the same one. He wrote that I was his best customer and that he needed me. He blamed the factory. The one that is now offering it to other dealers and nothing. If the dealers are selling them to us for $180 dollars, how much is that costing the dealer? Half of that? That was just Yuki trying to get the most out of us while he could before the SH3135 came out. It backfired on him. All of us refused to buy at the price he was selling it at. My loyalty is to my friend here on the forums. Not a dealer in china trying to rip me off. Funny thing was Yuki would charge me $280-320 per unit depending on how many I would order. I would order 10 at a time. So I was getting them for $280. That would save a customer $100 dollars and get them a date wheel. Or get it serviced and really only pay $40 over the price yuki would sell it off his site. I charged $320 to BK's customers that wanted it in the V6S. I did around 10 people for him. Greed is what kills this and every hobby. Sorry for the rant. LOL. RWI is down.
  15. http://trustytime.store/

    Of course you can brother. The SA3135 is a clone on its own build. While it will take a real dial and real hands, it will not take any real rolex parts on the movement itself. There are a few that will fit but in general they wont. It isn't a Rolex spec 3135. The SH3135 is a full clone of the 3135 that Rolex made. Yuki was one of the first to come out with it then the factory started making movements for the JF factory and others. This movement will take almost every part from a Rolex 3135. The Rolex balance won't work on it. The SH3135 is the best movement around because after a great cleaning and a few parts changed for reliability, like the calendar wheel and and the intermediate calendar wheel, you will have a movement that behaves and runs like a Rolex 3135. Great movement for the long haul until you throw in a real 3135. I have some yukis out there that Mike build and that I have built that are 2 to 3 years old and still running perfectly. Like I said the yuki is the SH3135. But they did improvements like engrave the winding and auto winding bridges so they look like Rolex. Mostly cosmetic stuff. But they made a big leap on the hand pinions and the reversing wheels. Really one of my favorite movements side to a real rolex 3135.
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