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Problem with mvt not holding dial feet?


horologist

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Hello fellow members,

 

it it has been a while since I posted as I  have only been lurking.

 

I have been helping out a colleague with his Parnis submariner look alike as he had asked my opinion about getting it seviced.  I offered to look into it and noticed it to have a dg2813 which we all know what the best  service for that is!! LOL!   I have fitted eta 2836 in the past for this model.

 

 I had a spare sterile eta dial and an eta cone I purchased about 12 months ago sitting n my drawer and asked him if he was happy for me to replace his watch with them and he happily agreed.  I assembled it without problems including the DWO?.............. BUT the dial feet do not hold against the movement clamps that swing to friction hold the dial feet!   They seem to flip off with an movement.  The dial comes loose and hands fall off already cased a couple of scratches on dial!

 

The movement is great in terms of accuracy, even better than some of my genuine etas in my genuine watches.!! I can now see the quality downside to these clones? It may sound trivial, but has anyone ever experienced this??!  What solutions have any of you come up with as I am all ears or more precisely - all eyes!  Thanks in advance

 

 

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1 hour ago, Revere said:

That sounds like it might be more of a problem with the dial having too small of a diameter on the dial feet...

The dial feet seem to go in without feeling loose.  I feel the clamps that rotate onto the feet don't grip or do not seem to sit in place  once you swing them onto the foot post?  I thought of cementing them into movement but would be a horror to remove if in need of a service or further work - obviously  frowned upon by professional watchmaking fraternity

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10 hours ago, horologist said:

BUT the dial feet do not hold against the movement clamps that swing to friction hold the dial feet!   They seem to flip off with an movement.  The dial comes loose and hands fall off already cased a couple of scratches on dial!

 

The movement is great in terms of accuracy, even better than some of my genuine etas in my genuine watches.!! 

 

Very valid question!

 

Just a thought that I will share with you that I think could be a more common issue with those that don't do this on a regular basis!

 

I had a similar problem with my yuki submariner 16610 which I foolishly sold as they are no longer available.

Did your dial have 4 dial feet where you had to cut off two of them to accommodate the ones at 10 and 40 position if I recall correctly for the 2836 ?

If so, could it be that part of the cut feet under your dial may have left stubs or part of the dial feet are still protruding just under the dial? We are talking of about a feas nose.  This may cause an uneven dial or even more so a dial sitting up higher where the feet can just be seen under the movement and not gripped properly from the movement anchors when rotated onto the feet.  This is easily overshadowed by the fact that on those movements you can still have the hands working properly due to the higher hour wheel and minute post and the dial not clamped properly onto the movement. If I were to out money in a bet, I am confident that this is your problem.

best of luck!

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Well it seems like you sort of nailed this one right on the head!!  What I noticed is that the dial was slightly bent and not fully flat.  Maybe a manufacturing issue or I could have accidentally done it myself .   I will never know!!

 

I tried to somehow press on it to flatten it and so far it seems to be in situ!  I juggled it a bit to make sure the movement prongs hold it.  Will see when it is put in action as to how successful the long run will be.  Thank you so much for your input which is what makes this forum a true blessing to be part of!! 

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