waterproofing rep DJ case raffles, etc

[watchu5]

I know there are plenty of rep cases available for the sub/gmt/etc style but I cant seem to find as much for DJ

 

lower priced ones are available easily through raffles but ive emailed the seller and he warned me theyre not water resistant enough for the occasional swim which may happen

 

since there doesn't seem to be much available between raffles and gen (gen which I can't afford) is there some way to improve the water resistance of the raffles cases ?

[bobandshawn]

Some ways. Depends on the severity and/or location of the leak...

 

B

[horologist]

12 hours ago, watchu5 said:

I know there are plenty of rep cases available for the sub/gmt/etc style but I cant seem to find as much for DJ

 

lower priced ones are available easily through raffles but ive emailed the seller and he warned me theyre not water resistant enough for the occasional swim which may happen

 

since there doesn't seem to be much available between raffles and gen (gen which I can't afford) is there some way to improve the water resistance of the raffles cases ?

I purchased a raffles DJ case when I was doing these addictive projects many moons ago and wanted something to be as water resistant as possible!!! (especially if I accidentally put my hand in a water of bucket or went swimming).

 

I am not sure what he sells nowadays if any of his stock can accept genuine parts or not.  What I did was to buy a new glass seal ( a generic one would do) and replace this for a start.  The seal must be tight and if it goes on easily, I would not use it!!!

 

I also had a generic stainless steel crown and tube which I recall purchasing from a watch supply house in Australia.  They were great and value for money. The crown and tube are a must!!! I put Loctite and a seal which was slightly thicker.

 

I also replaced the back case seal with a thicker one which I could just see protrude between the back case and the case.  I would change it every year or two.

 

I never had a problem with it when immersing it in water. At the time I got a watchmaker to pressure  test it and said that it was resistant to 50 meters.  I had my doubts about this, but I tested it at home by seeing how it reacted to extreme temperature differences by removing it from very hot water to icy water and vice versa.  I even left it in the top freezer of the refrigerator over night.  I used it for swimming and for light immersion in water without a problem. It is still ticking away today even though I don't wear it very often.  I was quite satisfied with this especially being a replica.  I would never dare this with a genuine DJ!!! LOL!!! 

 

DISCLAIMER!!!!  I MAKE NO GUARANTEES THAT THE ABOVE METHOD IS GOSPEL IN WATERPOOFING AS IT MAY HAVE BEEN A PURE FLUKE THAT IT WORKED.  IF YOU TRY THE ABOVE, DO IT AT YOUR OWN RISK AS INFORMATION IS INTENDED FOR INFORMATIONAL MATERIAL AND ONLY AS A GUIDE (AND TO SHARE WHAT WORKED FOR ME)!!!  

Edited August 8, 2018 by horologist
repeated sentence - grammer

[automatico]

The method outlined above is the way to go.  

I have a 'DJ' done basically like the 'horologist' version using the following components:

 

Standard 36mm 162xx type case made for Eta 2836/A21j.

ST sapphire crystal with gasket.

ST case back gasket.

ST case tube with gasket.

ST steel fluted bezel.

Aftmkt crown with new cap gasket.

 

Compared the case to a genuine 16200 case and the case neck is the same OD (29.5mm) with a very good finish so the ST oem spec crystal and gasket will work.

Case back gasket was from an ST assortment.

Crown is like the one that comes on JMB '1016' type cases.

Used 'ThreeBond' sealer on the case tube threads and silicone grease on the rubber gaskets.

 

Tested it in a Bergeon 5555/98 tester to 85 or 90psi (about 6atm).  I use a small air tank to pressurize the chamber through a Schrader valve installed in place of the pressure relief valve.  One shot and pressure is up...no pumping.  

Tested it 4 or 5 times.  No leaks.

Still have it a few years later.  It has a black Roman numeral dial, red/black date on white, red second hand, jubilee style bracelet, and a Seagull ST16 movement that runs within 10 or 12 seconds a day (slow).  Need to speed it up...never got around to it.

 

Make sure the case neck is the same as oem (29.5mm) and the case tube threads are oem spec so oem spec parts will work.  Some cases have 5.3mm case tubes and some have 6.0mm case tubes...both should have 6mm diameter crowns. 

FYI...5.3 case tube threads are 2.5mm x .25mm, 6.0mm threads are 3.0mm x .35mm.

 

Read the 'Crown Info' sticky in the rolex section for more confusion.  

[horologist]

Yeah , as Automatico mentioned, I forgot to say about the grease on the case gaskets which one does already without thinking!  Silicone grease is great! 

 

I used white lithium grease on mine.  When you think about it, the genuine DJ case stripped naked without the gaskets, seals and tube etc is nothing special over the the standard DJ case made for eta mvt apart from the stainless steel grade difference being 904L.

 

I never actually tried using a genuine case tube & crown on the silix case but it would be interesting if anyone has!

 

As for the eta DJ case they are closer related to the genuine DJ cases as opposed to the set up on the sub 16610 case made for eta since the crystal setup is different because in the genuine case they have a crystal retaining ring over the crystal. Whereas  in my silix case the crystal is pushed into the crystal gasket! Steinhart and squale homage sub style cases also have same setup as the eta case . If you crack the crystal on your eta 16610, you cannot use a sapphire crystal which is designed for the genuine!!!  You are in deep sh$@ if you need to replace crystal.  If I recall correctly the genuine crystal has a step in the edge like the DJ crystal!,  A star supply case is closer to the real McCoy!

 

[Guest messinapete]

The method outlined above is the way to go.  
I have a 'DJ' done basically like the 'horologist' version using the following components:
 
Standard 36mm 162xx type case made for Eta 2836/A21j.
ST sapphire crystal with gasket.
ST case back gasket.
ST case tube with gasket.
ST steel fluted bezel.
Aftmkt crown with new cap gasket.
 
Compared the case to a genuine 16200 case and the case neck is the same OD (29.5mm) with a very good finish so the ST oem spec crystal and gasket will work.
Case back gasket was from an ST assortment.
Crown is like the one that comes on JMB '1016' type cases.
Used 'ThreeBond' sealer on the case tube threads and silicone grease on the rubber gaskets.
 
Tested it in a Bergeon 5555/98 tester to 85 or 90psi (about 6atm).  I use a small air tank to pressurize the chamber through a Schrader valve installed in place of the pressure relief valve.  One shot and pressure is up...no pumping.  
Tested it 4 or 5 times.  No leaks.
Still have it a few years later.  It has a black Roman numeral dial, red/black date on white, red second hand, jubilee style bracelet, and a Seagull ST16 movement that runs within 10 or 12 seconds a day (slow).  Need to speed it up...never got around to it.
 
Make sure the case neck is the same as oem (29.5mm) and the case tube threads are oem spec so oem spec parts will work.  Some cases have 5.3mm case tubes and some have 6.0mm case tubes...both should have 6mm diameter crowns. 
FYI...5.3 case tube threads are 2.5mm x .25mm, 6.0mm threads are 3.0mm x .35mm.
 
Read the 'Crown Info' sticky in the rolex section for more confusion.  

Being new here and reading your post I never realised just how seriously and knowledgeable people like yourself take in your ‘work’ it’s really an ‘Eye opener’

Do you fix/Sell watches?
Regards


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