Need help regarding ROOs

[Kastro]

Hello everyone! Im new here,
 
I have been reading through a lot of posts on here as well as rwi and rwg.biz and I have a couple of question.
 
Firstly, I noticed that there are a few factories that do AP pretty well such as XF, JF and Noob, I was however told that JF made the best ROOs out there and have mostly seen only JF models anywhere.. until i came here and saw [mention=39943]Legend[/mention]‘s post abt modded XF FC Divers and a post stating that XF made really really good detailed dials as well as good crystal. So that being said, may i know what is the difference and pros/cons between these factories are?
 
Second, i have huge wrists, abt 9" i got fat hands HAHAHA . So even though i took a liking to the JF Diver v9, its a 42mm and idk if it might look pretty small on my hand. The 44mm ROOs are nice but their movement is concern since ive read that 7750s are a ticking timebomb when secs@12. Are there any nice 44mm divers out there or thoughts/recommendations on the ROO chronos?? I know AP had a 44mm diver in the past.
 
Any info/help regarding divers and the chronos would be appreciated! Thank you ️

[Legend]

Hello and to answer your questions

 

1. For ROOs (both 42 and 44mm), look for JF made ones. For the FC or ceramic divers specifically, look for XF v2. For the stainless steel diver, I think that the best one is still the JF v7.

2. For differences, you need to do some research, but I have summarized your purchase decisions above.

3. The 42mm ROO is a bulky watch to wear due to the case design and also the lug angle. But you alone can decide what wears big and what wears small.

4. To my knowledge, there has been no 44mm diver produced. Even the old scuba model 15340ST was 42mm. If you do know of a 44mm, please share with the group, we can all learn something new. 

 

 

[tamomota]

Here the answer from the king of legend. 

Thanks. 

[Kastro]

20 hours ago, Legend said:

Hello and to answer your questions

 

1. For ROOs (both 42 and 44mm), look for JF made ones. For the FC or ceramic divers specifically, look for XF v2. For the stainless steel diver, I think that the best one is still the JF v7.

2. For differences, you need to do some research, but I have summarized your purchase decisions above.

3. The 42mm ROO is a bulky watch to wear due to the case design and also the lug angle. But you alone can decide what wears big and what wears small.

4. To my knowledge, there has been no 44mm diver produced. Even the old scuba model 15340ST was 42mm. If you do know of a 44mm, please share with the group, we can all learn something new. 

 

 

Ahh I looked up the 42mm scuba model and i found out that it was usually mistaken as a 44mm, maybe thats where I saw 44mm in some article(cant find it now). 

 

Regarding the chrono ROOs since the secs@12 is pretty bad in the A7750 movement, is there a way to go about making it more reliable via mods? So far the issue with the A7750 movement with the ROO chronos are the only thing putting me off them.

 

Thanks for a butt load of info! Huat ah 🙊

13 hours ago, tamomota said:

Here the answer from the king of legend. 

Thanks. 

Ayeeee truly a legend 😍

Edited October 9, 2018 by Kastro

[Legend]

On 10/9/2018 at 11:47 AM, Kastro said:

Ahh I looked up the 42mm scuba model and i found out that it was usually mistaken as a 44mm, maybe thats where I saw 44mm in some article(cant find it now). 

 

Regarding the chrono ROOs since the secs@12 is pretty bad in the A7750 movement, is there a way to go about making it more reliable via mods? So far the issue with the A7750 movement with the ROO chronos are the only thing putting me off them.

 

Thanks for a butt load of info! Huat ah 🙊

Ayeeee truly a legend 😍

@Kastro

I doubt there was ever a 44mm diver. There are 42mm ROOs and divers, 44mm ROOs, and 48mm ROOs (T3/Legacy/Shaq). The Royal oaks come in sizes of 33, 37, 39 and 41mm.

 

The A7750 sec@12 movement has been improved for the recent batches, and the key issue is friction. A proper service and swiss mainspring replacement will alleviate the friction issue and make the movement run a lot more reliably. One key to remember is to leave the chrono function well alone. Even for genuine AP calibers and LWO movements, the chrono function is not perfectly reliable. So if you are willing to treat the chrono and subdials as perfunctory decorations and avoid using the chrono, you have a much higher chance of having a watch with a long and healthy lifespan after a service. I do not even touch the chrono function on my gen ROOs. Trust me, even on the gen, the chrono function does not have sure-fire reliability.

 

 

[Sogeha]

I’m kind of okay with a chrono function that isn’t reliable on a $500 rep. On a watch that cost $15000 and up, it seems a bit more of an issue. I wish the rep makers would address the date window location, I did hear a rumour about new improved models. Do you know anything about that @Legend 

[Legend]

I’m kind of okay with a chrono function that isn’t reliable on a $500 rep. On a watch that cost $15000 and up, it seems a bit more of an issue. I wish the rep makers would address the date window location, I did hear a rumour about new improved models. Do you know anything about that [mention=39943]Legend[/mention] 

Hey P

Even the chrono on the gen APs isn’t reliable. Common problems are: not resetting to 0, chrono not running smooth and chrono causing the movement to seize up. This on a gen. So whatever improvements they do on a rep, I doubt that they can surpass this even using stacked Swiss chronograph movements like the LWO.


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[Sogeha]

31 minutes ago, Legend said:

Hey P

Even the chrono on the gen APs isn’t reliable. Common problems are: not resetting to 0, chrono not running smooth and chrono causing the movement to seize up. This on a gen. So whatever improvements they do on a rep, I doubt that they can surpass this even using stacked Swiss chronograph movements like the LWO.


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I think you misunderstood me brother. I am only interested in rumours of improved reps across the range and hoping for better date window location. If the ROO came with a date window in a more gen like position and could still be slimmed a little, that would be more than enough to make me happy

[Kastro]

On 10/8/2018 at 2:49 PM, Legend said:

Hello and to answer your questions

 

1. For ROOs (both 42 and 44mm), look for JF made ones. For the FC or ceramic divers specifically, look for XF v2. For the stainless steel diver, I think that the best one is still the JF v7.

2. For differences, you need to do some research, but I have summarized your purchase decisions above.

3. The 42mm ROO is a bulky watch to wear due to the case design and also the lug angle. But you alone can decide what wears big and what wears small.

4. To my knowledge, there has been no 44mm diver produced. Even the old scuba model 15340ST was 42mm. If you do know of a 44mm, please share with the group, we can all learn something new. 

 

 

@Legend sorry if im asking the wrong questions. 

so i looked up v7 and v9 divers and so far from what i read on rwi and rwg it looks like the v9 is a better option according to some and there are others who also prefer the V7s but made no mentions as to why they do so.

so may i know why you think the best one is still the v7? 

also for the XF v2 FC divers, i notice theres a few with diff movements, if i do get one which one should i get thats able to be modded and if you dont mind me asking, what are the mods available or should i get on the v7/v9 divers?

I saw the thread that you posted about the modded XF V2 and it looks amazing.

some of the mods i know of are DW change, cyclops, low beat conversion, AR coating, reluming and possibly a mod for the links so that its more flexible, but im not sure what is really needed and not. It would be nice to have an input from someone that is has lots of experience in the rep scene and a legend regarding modded APs heh.

sorry if im asking lots of newb questions, this would prob be my first rep so yeh. 

Edited November 7, 2018 by Kastro

[Champsy]

[mention=39943]Legend[/mention] sorry if im asking the wrong questions. 
so i looked up v7 and v9 divers and so far from what i read on rwi and rwg it looks like the v9 is a better option according to some and there are others who also prefer the V7s but made no mentions as to why they do so.
so may i know why you think the best one is still the v7? 
also for the XF v2 FC divers, i notice theres a few with diff movements, if i do get one which one should i get thats able to be modded and if you dont mind me asking, what are the mods available or should i get on the v7/v9 divers?
I saw the thread that you posted about the modded XF V2 and it looks amazing.
some of the mods i know of are DW change, cyclops, low beat conversion, AR coating, reluming and possibly a mod for the links so that its more flexible, but im not sure what is really needed and not. It would be nice to have an input from someone that is has lots of experience in the rep scene and a legend regarding modded APs heh.
sorry if im asking lots of newb questions, this would prob be my first rep so yeh. 

I maybe wrong but the v9 had the wrong colour hour markers and hands compared to the v7 being a lot closer to the gen. probably a few other good tells between them also and in regards to what should you go for the ceramic is a beauty in my opinion as is the fc especially once they have been through Legends hands.




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[Kastro]

I maybe wrong but the v9 had the wrong colour hour markers and hands compared to the v7 being a lot closer to the gen. probably a few other good tells between them also and in regards to what should you go for the ceramic is a beauty in my opinion as is the fc especially once they have been through Legends hands.




Sent from me

Thanks! Yeh i noticed the v9 had green ish hands but a relume shud fix that i think heh the FC looks beautiful too, kinda tempted to get both gahaha


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