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What's the best Daytona currently?


richard591

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Bit late, but happy new year everyone.

 

I'm looking for the best possible version of the Daytona currenly available and prefer the all stainless versions with black dial/bezel - but that's not cast in stone, except for the bracelet.

Can anyone advise on this and in particular the best movement and if that has overcome the previous "secs at 6" issues.

Views from anyone who has bought one would be most welcome, particularly on the issue of reliability.

 

Thanks

Richard

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3 minutes ago, richard591 said:

Bit late, but happy new year everyone.

 

I'm looking for the best possible version of the Daytona currenly available and prefer the all stainless versions with black dial/bezel - but that's not cast in stone, except for the bracelet.

Can anyone advise on this and in particular the best movement and if that has overcome the previous "secs at 6" issues.

Views from anyone who has bought one would be most welcome, particularly on the issue of reliability.

 

Thanks

Richard

Are you looking for a modern or a vintage Daytona or not too fussed?

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Sorry about the shortness of the last reply, but I was just running out of the door to go somewhere.

Fuller answers as follows.

1. I would prefer not to have the watch mod'ed, so looking for the best fully functional version available at present.

2. My preference would be for the latest models, but if anyone knows of a completely stunning vintage model then that would be an option.

3. I'm not limiting the budget, but would want the very best example.

4. I'm looking for a completely functioning full chrono watch, not one with only certain bits functioning. I guess that's the OCD kicking in !

5. I'm familiar with the work from Noob and have two of their watches already. They are both very good, so looking for the same overall quality. I see they have a version available with the 4130  super clone. Is that really a fully functioning movement?

 

Any opinions from the group would be gratefully received, particularly from those who have bought.

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Q:  "What is your budget?"

A:  "As much as it takes."

Good question.  Good answer. 

 

All is imho but I do own a few A7750/53 examples plus a few vintage types with the Venus 175 clone (ST19).

 

With modern 'Daytona' replicas the problem is always going to be the movement.  The A7750 with seconds at 9 was not very good some of the time but at least the movement was a copy of a viable design.

The A7750 with the seconds at 6 are junk imho.  I bought two...one for grins and one for parts.  I never worked up the courage to wear one but they both still tick when I shake them 5+ years later.

A sec@9 model with a genuine 7750 is Ok but the cases are too thick and I read the A7750 hands are not a good fit,  I do not know.  Also read all the 750 models sub dials are not exactly in the right spot.  Maybe the sec@6 is close, do not know.

 

Here is where it gets itchy...the 4130 Dayclona looks the part and everything I have read has been good.  That's fine and dandy but afaik there are no parts except another movement or another watch.  Bad News.  Real Bad News.

You have three 'systems' with potential problems:

1...Autowind.

2...Time keeping.

3...Chronograph.

 

Q...Which 'system' usually causes the most trouble?

A...My guess is #1 and #3 are tied but you can help #3 by not pushing the suicide buttons much at all therefore not running the chronograph.

I read that some genuine parts will fit but they are expensive and not easy to get.

 

Problems with ST19/Venus 175 clones?

None except a pallet jewel came off the pallet fork in one of them.  One is over 10 years old, an early cartel 'Daytona' and it has an oversize case with 20mm lug spacing but the dial is pretty good and it keeps very good time.  I almost never use the chronograph function but it has never failed to work and reset properly.

They have a few more jewels than the original Venus 175 and the beat rate is 21600 where the 175 was 18000.  The subdial spacing is off a little compared to a Val 72 from what I have read and the hour recorder hand needs to be locked in place.

 

Everyone who is familiar with vintage Daytonas will assume any they see 'in the wild' are replicas where someone wearing a modern automatic might get a pass.  That's a Slight Might.

 

Truisms:

"When you opt for revenge, first dig two graves."

"When buying a replica chronograph, buy two...one for parts."   :pimp:

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Thanks automatico, very useful comments and much appreciated.

 

I thought my original question was a bit of an ask to get a favourable answer. Something inside me still regrets selling my lovely 1969  Omega Speedmaster moonwatch last year, with its fab Calibre 861 movement, to a Japanese collector, but I hadn't worn it since switching to Rolex submariners about 40 years ago. So only about 9 years use on it. Nevertheless, watches should be worn and I know it's gone to a good home.

 

Unfortunately there doesn't seem to be a stock movement close to that quality which has been cloned or would provide a reliable chrono funcfion from what I'm reading. Do you know if Yuki have done one, as they did with the 3135 movement? However, if so, that would require a modification once the watch was bought. Meanwhile will look at the vintage models just in case.

 

While writing and for those who may be considering the Baselworld Seadweller 2017 here are some comments on the one I bought at the end of last year.

 

After seeking some opinions from members I finally went for the ARF version in preference to the Noob. Only negative comment I can find is that the bezel on the ARF is not as perfect in feel and operation as the Noob bezel on my DSSD's. That is said after direct comparison with my genuine 16610 Sub and about 40 years of wearing sub's. The feel on the bezels on the Noob's that I have are virtually indistinguishable from the genuine. That said, many wouldn't notice and the watch is absolutely lovely. It was bought from Ryan at Intime.

 

Although I have read some negative comments from others regarding the centering of the date in the cyclops window, mine is perfect. The operation of the auto date changeover is smooth as is the date hacking, providing you do as previously suggested and advance the time well past 12 o'clock before adjusting. I personally only change the date once I've advanced the time to around 8/9 o'clock position to avoid straining the change mechanism when too close to 12 o'clock.

 

The QA photos of the timegragh reading were, as expected, not accurate. Others have wondered if these photos are just stock ones rolled out every time, but I really don't know. All I can tell you is that the +4 secs/day shown turned out to be about +12-15 secs/day, which is closer to what I expected. After many weeks re-calibrating it's now down to a reliable +2/3 secs/day with the watch in the winder up position over night for about 8 hours, which I find acceptable. The Noob DSSD's are all the same too.

 

So, overall a lovely addition to anyone's collection. Hope this is helpful.

 

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