Chronus Posted April 1, 2006 Report Share Posted April 1, 2006 crazy, just crazy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbj69 Posted April 2, 2006 Report Share Posted April 2, 2006 this is what i recommend using, and what i am going to use for my submersible, thanks neil i was aware the arktos was like that but i wasnt about the subs, so now i will do mine even though i did a fingernail test on pulling them i think maybe if they get alot of sun they will fall out like u mentioned, but read about this metalset , its good stuff, it hardens like steel and when u sand it, it feels like steel, hope this helps u guys btw this stuff is not tha expensive, a little more than regular epoxy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finepics Posted April 2, 2006 Report Share Posted April 2, 2006 I am a Dental technician and there are cements (thats what we call glue) that cure chemically or with the use of UV light. UV light will not work as it cannot penetrate solid objects and the cements are not usually designed for metal to metal but for tooth to metal - however I am sure they would work. Soldering steel is not easy, as has been mentioned, and the heat will discolour the bezel which would need lots of work to restore the brushed finish especially around the numbers. The gen 187 has white gold markers which cannot be soldered to SS so they must be fixed from under the bezel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sailadams Posted April 2, 2006 Report Share Posted April 2, 2006 Joe's epoxy with metal powder added is cosmetically the best, if any part of the bond will remain visible, because the "glue" looks like metal and blends in. There are many brands; Evercoat has several versions, too. Remember that it is an epoxy and depends on a good physical grip to hold two parts together. For a better bond, use 3M 3200 adhesive, if the bonded area is not going to be too thick (i.e, obviously visible). Sikkens now has some similar equal-quality adhesives, too, and one is white instead of brown after curing, which might be a better color choice. I prefer local flash welding myself. A thin wafer of nickel with a very-high-flam coating on both sides is placed between the two pieces (marker and bezel) and electrically ignited (high temp spark) to flash weld the three pieces together. With the nickel in between, you can even weld steel to aluminum this way. Too much, you say? Over the top? Well maybe. But my metal bits ain't coming apart. burma shave EDIT OOPS That's 3m 5200 adhesive, not 3200. 3200 is reflective film. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trustywatchguy Posted April 2, 2006 Report Share Posted April 2, 2006 GREAT TTK Declaration to all.. The ARKTOS were instead very bad in terms of the bezel font. I had 3 pieces that came in stocks out of 20 pieces with BEZEL FONT dropped off. I had a customer who had the bezel font fall off also. TO ALL who bought from me... If your bezel font fall off, if you can fix it, that's good... if not, send it back to me. One for one exhange! You know... I am Trustywatchguy.. =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TTK Posted April 2, 2006 Report Share Posted April 2, 2006 (edited) @trusty......t'would have been better ( and seemed less like self-promotion ).....if you had just elected to e-mail the customers who bought from you.....but...ever the self publicist.....please don't hi-jack a thread for publicity purposes....! Edited April 2, 2006 by TTK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikellem Posted April 2, 2006 Report Share Posted April 2, 2006 @dcrooz.....varnish is a good alternative for screws that are in situ......the legends on the bezel are a different proposition entirely....the bezel is probably the most 'exposed' part of a watch.....simply ask all the members who have lost a bezel pearl from their Sub...! Thanks Neil...Great imformative imformation as usual.. Thanks for the update. Much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cracker Posted April 2, 2006 Report Share Posted April 2, 2006 I was told that the 187 had them put on with reverse soldering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TTK Posted April 2, 2006 Report Share Posted April 2, 2006 Not on any I've seen......! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbj69 Posted April 2, 2006 Report Share Posted April 2, 2006 Joe's epoxy with metal powder added is cosmetically the best, if any part of the bond will remain visible, because the "glue" looks like metal and blends in. There are many brands; Evercoat has several versions, too. Remember that it is an epoxy and depends on a good physical grip to hold two parts together. For a better bond, use 3M 3200 adhesive, if the bonded area is not going to be too thick (i.e, obviously visible). Sikkens now has some similar equal-quality adhesives, too, and one is white instead of brown after curing, which might be a better color choice. I prefer local flash welding myself. A thin wafer of nickel with a very-high-flam coating on both sides is placed between the two pieces (marker and bezel) and electrically ignited (high temp spark) to flash weld the three pieces together. With the nickel in between, you can even weld steel to aluminum this way. Too much, you say? Over the top? Well maybe. But my metal bits ain't coming apart. burma shave definitely flash welding is the best way, but if u dont have a friend that can do it, u may expect to pay quite a bit to get someone to do this type of weld for u, i for one have never done any welding but i do know some welders that do and they get paid pretty darn good , lol i really feel u will be ok with metalset or any other metal strength epoxy(stronger kind) but i cant guarantee it lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bres3000 Posted April 4, 2006 Report Share Posted April 4, 2006 (edited) @trusty......t'would have been better ( and seemed less like self-promotion ).....if you had just elected to e-mail the customers who bought from you.....but...ever the self publicist.....please don't hi-jack a thread for publicity purposes....! ? If you're serious, you're being petty. Anyway..... Thank you, Neil, for turning us onto the "Araldite" stuff. All the things I inadvertently bond together I'm sending to you for repair. (And, thank you, Andrew for your "announcement!") Edited April 4, 2006 by bres3000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TTK Posted April 4, 2006 Report Share Posted April 4, 2006 (edited) No pettiness involved...I'm not young enough to be petty.....but I know when to spot a photo opp or spin when I see it..... Comprehension isn't your strong point is it.......hence the reason you keep calling me "Neal"...... Edited April 4, 2006 by TTK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TTK Posted April 4, 2006 Report Share Posted April 4, 2006 (edited) BTW......no need for me to replace anyone's watch....I've started de-constructing the bezel and 'cementing' the offending items in place with an 'aircraft' quality two part metal compound.... for MY customers.......what's the point of sending out a replacement......that ain't gonna solve the problem......just perpetuate it.....! Edited April 4, 2006 by TTK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bres3000 Posted April 4, 2006 Report Share Posted April 4, 2006 No pettiness involved...I'm not young enough to be petty.....but I know when to spot a photo opp or spin when I see it..... Comprehension isn't your strong point is it.......hence the reason you keep calling me "Neil"...... Would you prefer me to call you "Kneel?" So, how come Joe didn't get a spanking for his thread crapping? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TTK Posted April 4, 2006 Report Share Posted April 4, 2006 (edited) Sorry.....but I never discuss my 'preferences' with complete strangers......you can call me Polyanna if you like......I'm thick-skinned.......just be prepared......: Sorry....you MUST be reading a different topic than I am......I fail to see where Joe 'crapped' in this thread.....I think he was a significant contributor.....the only 2x people 'crapping' in the thread......were you and Dusty McTrusty.....the brokeback twins........! BTW.....editing your post after the fact isn't likely to impress me...... Edited April 4, 2006 by TTK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bres3000 Posted April 4, 2006 Report Share Posted April 4, 2006 BTW.....editing your post after the fact isn't likely to impress me...... Yeah.... impressing you is on my list of "Things To Do" - somewhere after 'licking Satan's balls.' So..... its gonna be a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TTK Posted April 4, 2006 Report Share Posted April 4, 2006 Don't waste your mazoolah on any more reps.......put your money on licking ole Louis Cifer's balls.....well before impressing me..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FxrAndy Posted April 4, 2006 Report Share Posted April 4, 2006 Just on a quick note reference any one about to use locktite, generaly in use are two main types, 242 and 272, if i want to be able to take some thing apart with hand tools only i would use 242, if i did not want to ever take the thing apart or wouyld be useing an impact driver or some type of air tool or power tool i would use 272., I do a lot of waok on harleys and this has worked for me for the last 14 years, Be aware that neither of these are glues but thread locks only. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TTK Posted April 4, 2006 Report Share Posted April 4, 2006 Wot the man said....Loctite 242....for da screw......! 2 pack epoxy to give your bezel...moxy....! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sailadams Posted April 4, 2006 Report Share Posted April 4, 2006 definitely flash welding is the best way, but if u dont have a friend that can do it, u may expect to pay quite a bit to get someone to do this type of weld for u, i for one have never done any welding but i do know some welders that do and they get paid pretty darn good , lol i really feel u will be ok with metalset or any other metal strength epoxy(stronger kind) but i cant guarantee it lol Yes, I agree, Joe. I was speaking tongue-in-cheek about the flash welding. I wouldn't have any idea how to do it on something so small as a bezel marker without destroying it. Hmm... sounds like a nanuq project to try on an old beater. Now you got me thinking again... and you know what happened last time, not pretty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bres3000 Posted April 11, 2006 Report Share Posted April 11, 2006 Looking pretty tight....and being pretty tight are two different things....my markers were simply glued on.......don't know what with.....I have no faith in Superglue....2 part epoxy resins are my weapon of choice....Araldite being the best.....it'll stick a policeman to his beat.....! Neil, (how'm I doin' so far?) Can you tell me the four digit product number of the Araldite that you use? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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