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Need Advice on Purchase or Mod


Tim

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I need some advice on a Panerai. I like the design but I am not madly in love with it. I'd like to have one really nice example. I bought a 117H from Joshua but have come to understand that the pinion, lume, and crown are wrong on it. So I am trying to figure out what to do; either mod this 117H or get a better example. I asked Davidson which models he has that are closest to being 1:1 and he suggested either the PRE V 201A with the new dial or the base Ti 055 with the white dial. They both look nice to me and the 201A looks like it might be a winner.

Can one of the Panerai experts suggest which is the best way to go? Any of the options will seem to cost me around $300. I can either mod the 117H with a new pinion, lume, and crown, or buy the 201A or 055. Davidson of course suggests that I should buy both the 201A and the 055! Go figure, but he did offer me a nice deal.

I'd have less of a decision if Davidson was a little more communicative about how he mods the watches. They look like they already have the pinion problem taken care of and the lume looks very nice.

Does anyone have an opinion on these models? And, what exactly does Davidson do -- is he only reselling what some really good factory is putting out or is he doing the mods himself?

/Tim

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I need some advice on a Panerai. I like the design but I am not madly in love with it. I'd like to have one really nice example. I bought a 117H from Joshua but have come to understand that the pinion, lume, and crown are wrong on it. So I am trying to figure out what to do; either mod this 117H or get a better example. I asked Davidson which models he has that are closest to being 1:1 and he suggested either the PRE V 201A with the new dial or the base Ti 055 with the white dial. They both look nice to me and the 201A looks like it might be a winner.

Can one of the Panerai experts suggest which is the best way to go? Any of the options will seem to cost me around $300. I can either mod the 117H with a new pinion, lume, and crown, or buy the 201A or 055. Davidson of course suggests that I should buy both the 201A and the 055! Go figure, but he did offer me a nice deal.

I'd have less of a decision if Davidson was a little more communicative about how he mods the watches. They look like they already have the pinion problem taken care of and the lume looks very nice.

Does anyone have an opinion on these models? And, what exactly does Davidson do -- is he only reselling what some really good factory is putting out or is he doing the mods himself?

/Tim

Hi Tim,

I'm surely no expert, but I have spent some money and time learning about Panerai. I also have models from Davidsen, Joshua, and Ruby, and they're all nice in many respects.

The first thing that I've focused on is the movement. I feel that if it tells good time, and is reliable, then that's the first step. So all of the PAMs that you're considering have a variation of the ETA/Unitas/Swiss/Chinese 6497. If you do a search, there is a ton of information about this movement. The easy way to go is to get a solid caseback watch (201A for example) which will then most likely come with a reliable base Swiss 6497. If you do that, then you can concentrate on the other little items. The dial, the crown, the lume, the AR coat etc.. If you already have the Joshua and you like it, you could surely mod it which is what I chose to do, but that will cost you and you'll be without your watch for some time. BTW, do you have the 111H or the 177H? I'm not sure what the 117H is??

Every rep will have virtues and flaws. Davidsen has a nice crown and pioneers many of the current offerings, and he does much of the mod work himself. In fact, another rep dealer sold me a 177H that Davidsen lumed. Currently, the new 111/177 dial from Davidsen is probably the most anticipated part in rep land.

The lume is a hotly debated topic. C1 or C3, or a mix?? Vintage lume or no lume?? I like the bright superlume, which looks nice to me, but only if it's done well. And it's hard to do. If you search again, I'm sure you'll find lots of complaints and praises about the lume not only on Panerai, but on other reps as well.

The cannon pin is another thing. Davidsen has corrected this issue in his offerings. I just purchased a Ruby 036 that has this issue corrected. And I think in time, more and more dealers can offer this fix.

The crowns are thick/thin based on models and years. Most people agree that the thicker 2.0 to 2.2mm crown looks better and more correct on the newer PAMs, but only if it doesn't interfere with watch function. It's not always a super easy thing to fit a thick crown and stem onto a "smaller" crown guard.

Now back to the movement. Do you want to keep the clear sapphire caseback? I like the look of the movement. If you do, then you need to decide which flaws you could live with easier? The two movements you'll see with the 6497 are the CDG, or embellished bridges movement (H/I years), or the earlier PANERAI repeated (G) movement. Both look nice to me with the swan neck regulator. Even if it's non-functional.

I currently own the following:

1) Davidsen 111H awaiting new dial transplant, and movement service

2) Ruby 036 which I'll get a relume on and movement service

3) Fully modified Puretime 177H. I'm not sure what that will need.

Hope I've helped!!

skc

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Hi Tim,

I'm surely no expert, but I have spent some money and time learning about Panerai. I also have models from Davidsen, Joshua, and Ruby, and they're all nice in many respects.

The first thing that I've focused on is the movement. I feel that if it tells good time, and is reliable, then that's the first step. So all of the PAMs that you're considering have a variation of the ETA/Unitas/Swiss/Chinese 6497. If you do a search, there is a ton of information about this movement. The easy way to go is to get a solid caseback watch (201A for example) which will then most likely come with a reliable base Swiss 6497. If you do that, then you can concentrate on the other little items. The dial, the crown, the lume, the AR coat etc.. If you already have the Joshua and you like it, you could surely mod it which is what I chose to do, but that will cost you and you'll be without your watch for some time. BTW, do you have the 111H or the 177H? I'm not sure what the 117H is??

Every rep will have virtues and flaws. Davidsen has a nice crown and pioneers many of the current offerings, and he does much of the mod work himself. In fact, another rep dealer sold me a 177H that Davidsen lumed. Currently, the new 111/177 dial from Davidsen is probably the most anticipated part in rep land.

The lume is a hotly debated topic. C1 or C3, or a mix?? Vintage lume or no lume?? I like the bright superlume, which looks nice to me, but only if it's done well. And it's hard to do. If you search again, I'm sure you'll find lots of complaints and praises about the lume not only on Panerai, but on other reps as well.

The cannon pin is another thing. Davidsen has corrected this issue in his offerings. I just purchased a Ruby 036 that has this issue corrected. And I think in time, more and more dealers can offer this fix.

The crowns are thick/thin based on models and years. Most people agree that the thicker 2.0 to 2.2mm crown looks better and more correct on the newer PAMs, but only if it doesn't interfere with watch function. It's not always a super easy thing to fit a thick crown and stem onto a "smaller" crown guard.

Now back to the movement. Do you want to keep the clear sapphire caseback? I like the look of the movement. If you do, then you need to decide which flaws you could live with easier? The two movements you'll see with the 6497 are the CDG, or embellished bridges movement (H/I years), or the earlier PANERAI repeated (G) movement. Both look nice to me with the swan neck regulator. Even if it's non-functional.

I currently own the following:

1) Davidsen 111H awaiting new dial transplant, and movement service

2) Ruby 036 which I'll get a relume on and movement service

3) Fully modified Puretime 177H. I'm not sure what that will need.

Hope I've helped!!

skc

You have helped! The watch I have now is the 177H, I keep wanting to type 117 for some reason. It is nice, like I said, and the movement looks good except for the font being just a tad too tall on the engraving. I'd just as soon keep this one (although I do like the total bridge engraving like on the G models) but like I said, it needs a couple of mods. The crown and pinion really bug me, and the lume, well the lume you don't see unless its dark so it is not in my face. Who does your mods and do you know if there is a better crown available for the 177H?

Thanks for the info.

/Tim

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You have helped! The watch I have now is the 177H, I keep wanting to type 117 for some reason. It is nice, like I said, and the movement looks good except for the font being just a tad too tall on the engraving. I'd just as soon keep this one (although I do like the total bridge engraving like on the G models) but like I said, it needs a couple of mods. The crown and pinion really bug me, and the lume, well the lume you don't see unless its dark so it is not in my face. Who does your mods and do you know if there is a better crown available for the 177H?

Thanks for the info.

/Tim

I think the Josh dial looks pretty good. Which movement do you have in your watch? The Asian 6497 or the Swiss one? And I agree that the recessed pin is unacceptable. I've been sending stuff to Vacuum. I find him great to deal with and very helpful.

Good luck! I just got my 177H back today and I love it. Heck, the strap I have on it right now costs 1/2 of what I paid for the watch

skc

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I think the Josh dial looks pretty good. Which movement do you have in your watch? The Asian 6497 or the Swiss one? And I agree that the recessed pin is unacceptable. I've been sending stuff to Vacuum. I find him great to deal with and very helpful.

Good luck! I just got my 177H back today and I love it. Heck, the strap I have on it right now costs 1/2 of what I paid for the watch

skc

I have the Swiss Unitas, or so I am told. Got it from Joshua so I suppose it is as advertised.

What did Vacuum do for you? Pinion and lume? Does anyone have a better crown for the 177H?

/Tim

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Davidsen 201/a got the AR on the crystal and it should NOT have it.

Latest dial is more of a sandwich dial, while it should be filled with lume.

There are a few cosmetic flaws on the 201/a but Davidsen is the only dealer that has the Pre-V moddels.

Every rep has it flaws....the question is...can you life with it?

The list goes on and on...we'll never get the perfect rep ^_^

Here's an "old" Davidsen 201/a.

216085-15523.jpg

ps My sig is the gen 201/a

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I have the Swiss Unitas, or so I am told. Got it from Joshua so I suppose it is as advertised.

What did Vacuum do for you? Pinion and lume? Does anyone have a better crown for the 177H?

/Tim

Hey Tim,

Luckily for me, all of my watches have the cannon pin issue fixed. I'm having Vacuum re-lume some stuff and service the movements. I'm also swapping out my 111H dial for the new Davidsen when it arrives.

I forgot to mention the crown. I like the Davidsen crown and my Ruby 036 came with a very nice 2.0mm crown. I'm not as sensitive to the crown issues. Palp made some very nice SS crowns at 2.2mm, but they are now unobtanium and $80/ea. At this point, if you're unhappy with your crown, I would think that Davidsen would be your best bet.

BTW, my lume from Davidsen is very nice, but somehow less bright than the hands? No big deal.....still looks really nice.

skc

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Davidsen 201/a got the AR on the crystal and it should NOT have it.

Latest dial is more of a sandwich dial, while it should be filled with lume.

There are a few cosmetic flaws on the 201/a but Davidsen is the only dealer that has the Pre-V moddels.

Every rep has it flaws....the question is...can you life with it?

The list goes on and on...we'll never get the perfect rep ^_^

Here's an "old" Davidsen 201/a.

216174-15519.jpg

ps My sig is the gen 201/a

Wow, you have a GEN 201/a?? Cool!! Do you have any side by side shots with the Davidsen?

thanks,

skc

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