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Rolex: ETA vs ETA Nickel


Uhrenfreund25

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with nickel, you can fly to the moon ;)

no, just kiddin, it doesnt really matter which you get (quality&accuracy wise)

:-)

But the Nickel-version is closer to the original? Does the original have also the Nickel-look?

The ETA is the best movement you can get for this watch, isn't it? (is it the closest to the original?)

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the best& clostest ist probably a genuine rolex movement ;)

i believe the genuine rolex movement is nickel and looks sort of like the nickel eta which is pictured in your first post!

I'm looking for something like that: http://www.jumboprawn.net/jesse/naligaa/faulex/sub_under.jpg

There is no plastic-spacer-ring, the movement has the correct size.

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That brass colored movement is a loose pack ETA, swiss manufactured parts assembled in Asia. The nickel finished movement is a swiss pack ETA movement, same parts, nickel plated and assembled in Switzerland. As you can see the nickel finished movement has some decoration to make it resemble the Rolex Caliber 3135 movement in the Submariner, Sea-Dweller, Datejust, and Yacht-Master.

ETA nickel movement:

29144-274.jpg

Rolex 3135

29144-275.jpg

Both the brass colored ETA movement or the nickel plated movement should be fine, if the price is the same get the nickel one as it looks nicer I think.

By the way, both the Rolex and ETA movements are made of brass and then electroplated with nickel. Unless one or the other has changed their process in the last couple years that is.

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That brass colored movement is a loose pack ETA, swiss manufactured parts assembled in Asia. The nickel finished movement is a swiss pack ETA movement, same parts, nickel plated and assembled in Switzerland. As you can see the nickel finished movement has some decoration to make it resemble the Rolex Caliber 3135 movement in the Submariner, Sea-Dweller, Datejust, and Yacht-Master.

ETA nickel movement:

29182-259.jpg

Rolex 3135

29182-260.jpg

Both the brass colored ETA movement or the nickel plated movement should be fine, if the price is the same get the nickel one as it looks nicer I think.

By the way, both the Rolex and ETA movements are made of brass and then electroplated with nickel. Unless one or the other has changed their process in the last couple years that is.

@ Hari Seldon

Okay. Thanks. But what kind of movement (seems also to be available for Rolex-Replicas) is this one, which doesn't need to be kept in with a plastic ring:

post-1444-1145513352_thumb.jpg

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the movement in your picture is a standard ETA 21 jewel movement. I dont quite understand when you say "doesn't need to be kept in with a plastic ring", none of the ETAs are kept in plastic rings. In addition, plastic or metal rings are just what they are, MOVEMENT holders, they can be made out of titanium if you want, its all cosmetics.

hope clears it up for you.

Edited by Marrickvilleboy
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the movement in your picture is a standard ETA 21 jewel movement. I dont quite understand when you say "doesn't need to be kept in with a plastic ring", none of the ETAs are kept in plastic rings. In addition, plastic or metal rings are just what they are, MOVEMENT holders, they can be made out of titanium if you want, its all cosmetics.

hope clears it up for you.

Okay, so that would mean, that the 25jewels Movement (which is offered by the dealers here) is in every case better than the 21jewels I posted a pic of?

Edited by Uhrenfreund25
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Number of jewels is not the important issue :)

Both movements are fine since there is no way you can see the movement with the back caselid on it should be a minor issue....price might differ...any knowledgable person will imediately see that that these are not genuine rolex movements...nickel or no nickel B)

Gran :euro:

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29225-249.jpg

The one posted in the pic here is a 2846. Because of their slower beat rate, I typically install these in my vintage MBW's to match the genuine a/h of 19800bph.

ETA 2846 swap.

BTW- What does it matter what color the movement is? There are no ETA's that look anything remotely like a genuine 3135 (or 3035, 1570, etc for that matter). The minute the caseback comes off, the movement will be instantly recognizable as 'not genuine'. So, really, there is no point to having gold, or nickle plated, or red anodised gears, etc. The movement still looks wrong regardless.

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