chad Posted April 28, 2006 Report Share Posted April 28, 2006 Is there anyway i can prevent this? Chad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted April 28, 2006 Report Share Posted April 28, 2006 Not sure I completely understand... I am assuming you are concerned about the crown and tube threads stripping? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chad Posted April 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2006 Yes... or whatever the "common" issue is with these reps Not sure I completely understand... I am assuming you are concerned about the crown and tube threads stripping? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryyannon Posted April 28, 2006 Report Share Posted April 28, 2006 Many issues of cross-stripping of crown and tube threads on the Radomirs have been reported. I'm not certain if this is common to all movements, or just one. Others should be able to respond with more precise info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted April 28, 2006 Report Share Posted April 28, 2006 The problem with the crown and tube on the rep 'Historic' Radiomirs is that the metal used to construct these components is a soft metal- Possibly brass. So, it is recommended that you take great care and caution in threading and unthreading the crown each time you go to wind the movement. Over time, and since the movement is handwind, stripping may be inevitable as wear of the material over time cannot be avoided; however, it looks like davidsen might have a solution for us with this problem in the form of better, stronger tubes and crowns (see olreon's thread in General Discussion)... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryyannon Posted April 28, 2006 Report Share Posted April 28, 2006 So it's a problem specific to models ('Historic') rather than movements? I would have thought it had more to do with the movement than the model... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted April 28, 2006 Report Share Posted April 28, 2006 (edited) Indeed- It's an issue isolated with the crown and tube... These parts are rather soft and can strip out easily. No worries on the movement. The Swiss ETA 6497s are built like a tank! Edited April 28, 2006 by ubiquitous Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryyannon Posted April 28, 2006 Report Share Posted April 28, 2006 Indeed- It's an issue isolated with the crown and tube... These parts are rather soft and can strip out easily. No worries on the movement. The Swiss ETA 6497s are built like a tank! Duhh.... I still don't get it. Let me put it another way: are there any Radomirs (like Black Seals, for instance) which are exempt from this probem? I can't imagine that it's endemic to all historic (Vintage, Hommage, etc.) models, since there's so much variation in the build. Many of the 47mm Vintages come with a Russian Moljina movement; aside from being basically crappy, do these have the same cross-stripping problem? Or let me say it another way, are there ANY Radomirs that are exempt from the stripping issue? If you think I don't have a clue (I don't) I'll bet you that there are hundred of other members out there who've been ceaselessly asking themselves the same question without daring to expose their cluelessness on the board. Me, I've got nothing to lose. Everyone here knows I'm a complete idiot who never even learned how to wind a watch. Like I said in another thread, automatics and quartz all the way.... Many inquiring minds would like this issue settled once and for all. Who's got the knowledge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted April 28, 2006 Report Share Posted April 28, 2006 ryyannon- It's the tube that is attached to the exterior case of the watch that is the issue. It's completely external to the movement. I'll take a pic of the item in question here in just a moment... As for what Radiomirs are exempt from this- difficult to say. I've only experienced the Radiomir that I have, which was one of the early PAM183/210 cases from River. Granted, I've been careful in threading my crown down (so the threads still work) it is easy to see how they can strip with little effort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted April 28, 2006 Report Share Posted April 28, 2006 Some pics to illustrate... Supersize me... Those are the threads that strip... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lagae Posted April 28, 2006 Report Share Posted April 28, 2006 It's mostly due to the fact that it's on a manual wind movement, not on an automatic. With an automatic, you perhaps unscrew it 10-20 times a years. Since they're serviced every three to five years, you use it maybe 100 times before it can get replaced. But with a manual wind movement, you unscrew it every day. It would need to last 1-2000 uses between a normal servicings. It's possible, but you need to be very, very careful. Never force it. Push in on the crown and turn it counter clockwise until you feel the threads engage and then with one motion and still pushing in turn it clockwise a few turns. If you ever feel it jam, back up and start again. Once you damage the threads the only thing you can do is replace the tube and maybe the crown. And that's not really a big deal, and watch maker should be able to replace the tube for a few dollars. I think it's actually a bit better that the tube will give before the crown, as it will be much harder to find the correct crown if those threads strip. So far I've been lucky and haven't ruined any of my manual wind watches with screw down crowns, but I personally don't like them. When mine fail, I plan on simply removing that feature all together. Plenty of watches can be water resistant to 3-5 atm without a screw down crown, and I really hate worrying about it every time I wind the watch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryyannon Posted April 28, 2006 Report Share Posted April 28, 2006 Thank you for taking the time, guys: very instructive, and I think you've cleared up the mystery for both myself and many others out there. The definitive Radomir crown-and-stem-tube- cross-stripping explanation, in CinemaScope and Dolby Surround. As you may know, my tongue has been hanging out for the WM Hommage model of which I've posted pictures of several times, but it's been just this issue that has kept me from pursuing the matter further. In the meantime (WM posted his modded Radomir more than a year ago on the old RWG) people like Jay at Silixwatch have been offering three 47mm Vintage versions with the Moljina movement and the lovely California, Base and I-don't-know-what-to-call-it-other-than-WM-was-the-first-to-offer-such-a-version-with-that-dial. After exchanging some messages with ubiquitous (who has set about single-handedly putting together the sumptuous Vintage Radomir pictured above) I contacted David about the possibility of having them custom-made in 44/45mm cases with decent movements. He replied that he's already working on the idea, and should have a series ready by the end of May. Needless to say, I'm anxious to see what he's going to come up with, but whatever it is, it should be good - and the right time to pull the trigger. That's all the news that fits for the moment. It's been a pleasure learning from you two, and thanks for taking the time to dispel a bit of the usual fog dampening my neurons. Best regards! ryyannon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanerich Posted May 9, 2006 Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 It's actually not a simple fix if the tube strips, at least until such a time as Davidsen offers replacements. Dealers do not have replacement crowns or tubes as far as anyone knows. Your local watchsmith is not going to have a replica black seal tube or crown. All you can do is send your watch to a watchsmith and have him remove the spring and shorten the stem a little, so it sits correctly. Bye-bye any water resistance though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slay Posted May 9, 2006 Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 what about putting a genuine tube+crown in there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highflyingclive Posted May 9, 2006 Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 The Pam 147 is exempt from this problem. It does not have a screw-down crown. Problem solved. Happy timekeeping! Clive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted May 9, 2006 Report Share Posted May 9, 2006 what about putting a genuine tube+crown in there? I think it's a matter of finding the parts. Richemont has a stranglehold on parts distribution... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dadog13 Posted May 10, 2006 Report Share Posted May 10, 2006 i've almost missed this post! very useful info guys...tnx! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V Posted May 10, 2006 Report Share Posted May 10, 2006 The Pam 147 is exempt from this problem. It does not have a screw-down crown. Problem solved. And how you can go diving with this watch Clive without screw-down crown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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