Heywood Posted August 12, 2007 Report Posted August 12, 2007 Just finished up this project. Genuine 16200 case, rep dial from Josh, ETA 2836. The band is a hollow link 93150 rep with a genuine clasp. Runs about +1.5 seconds per day after being regulated. This a pretty accurate version of the 14270 with lug holes I think. I may put a genuine dial in it when I come across one. What do you guys think?
ShawnBeever Posted August 13, 2007 Report Posted August 13, 2007 Just finished up this project. Genuine 16200 case, rep dial from Josh, ETA 2836. The band is a hollow link 93150 rep with a genuine clasp. Runs about +1.5 seconds per day after being regulated. This a pretty accurate version of the 14270 with lug holes I think. I may put a genuine dial in it when I come across one. What do you guys think? Very nice. What problems did you have getting the movement to fit and the stem to line up with the keyless works?
stilty Posted August 13, 2007 Report Posted August 13, 2007 Very nice. What problems did you have getting the movement to fit and the stem to line up with the keyless works? Yes, very nice. The 2836-2 will work in 162XX series case, as long as you remove the date disc, etc. I built a franken Air-King a few years back and used a 2834-2 movement and it worked fine. It is when you get into date overlays that stem alignment becomes a problem and then you need a 2824-2 or 2892-2 movement. Heywood, you can modify your 2836-2 to a two position stem, since you don't have a date window. This way when you pull out the stem, it automatically goes to hack/time setting and bypasses date setting. I posted a turturial on this a while back on the mod. I coverted a 2824-2 on my franken ex-1. I have a gen dial and matching gen hands with 16200 case and gen 78360 bracelet.
Heywood Posted August 13, 2007 Author Report Posted August 13, 2007 Yes, very nice. The 2836-2 will work in 162XX series case, as long as you remove the date disc, etc. I built a franken Air-King a few years back and used a 2834-2 movement and it worked fine. It is when you get into date overlays that stem alignment becomes a problem and then you need a 2824-2 or 2892-2 movement. Heywood, you can modify your 2836-2 to a two position stem, since you don't have a date window. This way when you pull out the stem, it automatically goes to hack/time setting and bypasses date setting. I posted a turturial on this a while back on the mod. I coverted a 2824-2 on my franken ex-1. I have a gen dial and matching gen hands with 16200 case and gen 78360 bracelet. I did remove the date spacer to fit the case and it it lines up perfectly. I may end up changing the movement to a two position eventually, thanks for mentioning your tutorial post. I think I remember you posting about your explorer franken some time ago. I wish I had a genuine dial to use, but haven't come across one yet. Fitting the dial to the case was the most difficult step of this assembly. The diameter of the rep dial is several mm larger than the original so I had to to reduce the rep dial to fit. I used a small rubber washer on the front of the dial and inserted the screw of a dremel mandrel through the hole in the dial and screwed it to the mandrel, then with the dremel running ground down the diameter of the dial on a grinding stone until it fit the case. Amazingly it worked and didn't trash the dial.
stilty Posted August 13, 2007 Report Posted August 13, 2007 nice job on the dial resize! I have a rep dial and hand set that I bought on the bay. Seller said he 'thinks' it is genuine, so I bought it. It was too big for the case as well. It is actually a nice dial with good lume.
bscblue Posted November 8, 2007 Report Posted November 8, 2007 Did you want lug holes? Because if you're tryint to mimic the 14270, lug holes make it look at best inaccurate and at worst fake. The reason for this is that the 6610 (a vintage Explorer I) has lug holes in the case. My grandfather left me a genuine (6610) one when he died and I gave it to my sister and got a new replica Explorer I since I liked the watch so much. The 6610 definitely has those holes but a newer Explorer will not. Are you okay with that or are you going for a vintage look?
stilty Posted November 8, 2007 Report Posted November 8, 2007 Did you want lug holes? Because if you're tryint to mimic the 14270, lug holes make it look at best inaccurate and at worst fake. The reason for this is that the 6610 (a vintage Explorer I) has lug holes in the case. My grandfather left me a genuine (6610) one when he died and I gave it to my sister and got a new replica Explorer I since I liked the watch so much. The 6610 definitely has those holes but a newer Explorer will not. Are you okay with that or are you going for a vintage look? There were a few years where the 14270 had lug holes. It was when they introduced the 14270 around 1990, when they stopped making the 1016. Rolex didn't introduce the no-holes case until the mid 90's.
bscblue Posted November 12, 2007 Report Posted November 12, 2007 I happen to like the no holes look. I am a minimalist . . . at least when it comes to watches. My clothes would say otherwise. )
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