Crown size, Stem and case tube to get for ETA DateJust Rep

[nate moore]

Hey guys,

I just got my first rep from Josh - I'll post pictures later probably in another thread. I've looked at it for a while and I can't really find any flaws compared to a gen, though I'm sure the datewheel has slight differences most of them seem to match up pretty darn good. I know that beside the gen it's flaws would be easier to find (thickness, rehaut height, crystal height or whatever)...but without a gen beside it, I'm impressed at the accuracy.

I had an issue with it taking on moisture at first, but I removed the back and found the o-ring had simply not seated properly and now it seems to be fine around/in small amounts of water. I also had a problem with it not winding but it turned out that was a simple fix too - the movement holder's screw had came lose or wasn't tightened all the way and that was obstructing the rotor.

Anyhow, I want to put a gen crown, tube + stem in this guy. It's a rep of the 16200 case. The watch itself is I believe a 15200 DJ. The movement is an ETA 2836-2...it's actually this watch here:

http://www.pc-80108.com/rdjms10025-black-d...362-p-1102.html

Anyhow - just wanted to know what size crown (6mm?) and what stem to use with it and the ETA movement (unless by some freaky chance the ETA stem will work). I also wouldn't mind knowing the proper sized case tube for this watch and what modifications might be necessary to make it work if any.

Thanks

[w.genzo]

Gen crown + tube won't fit in a rep case, you need a gen case too.

[2005SUBMARINER]

if your case has a 3mm tap then you can use a gen crown & tube ..

good luck .

[stilty]

Also, before you proceed with removing the rep tube and crown. Consider the fact that the chances of damaging the rep tube is almost 100%. They are cheap and will probably crack when trying to get it out. I personally don't think it is worth the risk to see if a gen tube "might" fit. If a gen tube does not fit, and you damaged the rep tube you will have a watch that you won't be able to wear.

If you are totally convinced that this is something you want to do, you should contact your seller Josh and see if you can get a replacement tube first.

Good Luck!

[alligoat]

I believe the current Rolex parts #'s are 24-602-0 for the 6mm crown and 24-6020-0 for the case tube. Like 2005 submariner said, you need to retap the hole when you remove the rep tube- clean it up so that you can thread the new case tube in there cleanly- you;'ll also need the proper tool for installing the case tube. The eta stem will thread into the Rolex crown. Ofrei sells an aftermarket 6mm case tube for around $6- new style, then all you'd have to do is find the Rolex crown.

As Stilty says, you might be better off just sticking w/ the rep crown and case tube. If you're looking for WR, you might try some silicone grease on the o-ring seals and make sure everything is screwing down correctly. At that point you watch should be WR for simple stuff, dishwashing, lite swimming...

[nate moore]

thanks for the replies guys...very helpful, I'll have to think on whether or not I want to even attempt this - in the mean time - I guess the better question is:

Where in the world can I get a new style oyster gen bracelet? Ebay is great and all, for the older more standard stuff, but I can't for the life of me find a gen bracelet that is correct for the 2006-2007 datejust. Is this something that can be ordered from an AD or something? or am I pretty much out of luck? Of course...price will dictate whether or not it's worth doing or not, but I would like to have a genuine bracelet for this thing, or at least the clasp.

I believe the name of the new clasp is "rolisor"??

Thanks again

[alligoat]

I believe I read recently on Timezone that the cost of a new 93150 oyster bracelet was $825 at a Rolex AD. Plus tax no doubt.

And you'd have to probably have a gen watch for it to go on. Now a 93150 is the designation for a vintage Submariner oyster band used thru around 2000 on even the 16610 (501B end pieces). You can bet a new oyster band w/ solid end links, Rolisor clasp and polished mid-links would cost even more! 904L steel, of course.

[Guest watchbuff]

Your best bet is just to leave it alone. Try silocon grease in the usual places. I would take take any of these reps into water, only a few into the depths of the abyss.

Adding a gen crown and casetube can be done but will not guarantee water resistance. In fact it could make it worse.

You could put your rep dial and movement in a gen 16200 case with gen crown. (trust me it works) and forget the aggravation of fitting a dial on an ETA movemnt and deal with datewheels fonts and getting it to line up and not rub under a gen dial.

When they are done right ( I have made more than 5 now) they are great but what a pain when it does not fit right.

Keep the rep and its crown and try the grease, or just stay away from water.

[nate moore]

I believe I read recently on Timezone that the cost of a new 93150 oyster bracelet was $825 at a Rolex AD. Plus tax no doubt.

And you'd have to probably have a gen watch for it to go on. Now a 93150 is the designation for a vintage Submariner oyster band used thru around 2000 on even the 16610 (501B end pieces). You can bet a new oyster band w/ solid end links, Rolisor clasp and polished mid-links would cost even more! 904L steel, of course.

.....all in all, totally not worth the cost.

Now I think I'm starting to see why even most of the frankenjust projects I've seen have an 'aftermarket' bracelet . It also explains a lot of other things. The rep that I received from Josh is -very- accurate from all the comparisons I've done so far, the only thing is that the clasp I believe is wrong - I need to go to an AD and take a look at a gen clasp myself in person to make that determination.

I think I'm just going to be happy with it how it is as it really is stunning as it sits.

Thanks for the information however - it's been extremely helpful

On the note of water: I've managed to get it to being water resistant at least in a glass of water, so that's good enough for me .

Would the movement/rep dial work in a 16200 case even though the movement is a 2836-2?

N

PS: I'm a hot rodder, and 'hacker' at heart so I tend to want to mod/mess with just about anything I touch

Edited November 27, 2007 by nate moore