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Pugwash's Submariner


Pugwash

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No composite.....!

I'm going to say ... not a lot of Photoshop then, even though it looks like torchlight has been used on the right side. Just colour and light balancing and maybe a bit of dust removal.

Close?

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Dust removal by clone tool..( it doesn't matter how much you celan these baby's...they will always pick up dust on the glass).......a little sharpening around the bezel cutouts......and that's it......didn't even 'crush' the background....if you position the light as far as possible from the background....you get virtually no spill on the background....primary light on the right side...and secondary turned away at 90 degrees on the left side....!

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Nice step by step Pug. Why avoid layers? I actually portects your undo capability. You can always go back and edit separate parts at any time without remaking selections. I guess that proves my point, "there's more than one way to do any one thing...develop your own workflow".

As far as noise is concerened, NN is great, but the latest Neat image with camera specific profiles is beyond anything else I have seen or used.

And for SUPER DETAILED shots, check out this new tool. Looks quite promising! (at least until Adobe get's [censored] and adds all of this finctionality to CS3)

OOPS

http://www.photoacute.com/studio/index.html

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Only a fool would!

Which is why Neat Image have a version for OS X too :thumbsupsmileyanim:

But no profile for my dilapidated camera that I can see... :(

You can easily make one. Al you have to do is take an image (out of focus) of the screen or a printout of the free greyscale chart. The softwrae automatically makes the profiles from that. Shoot the card at each ISO.

A neat trick for removing chroma noise in PS is this. Duplicate the image as a layer and guassian blur that layer until you can no longer see the chroma noise (red green spltchy noise). Once the noise is blurred away, swith the layer properties to color (on the new layer) and the chroma noise disappears. Finally, merge the layers and add back some saturation.

This is great for preserving grain, while eliminating high iso digital artifacts which are easy to spot (the red green splotches).

Edited by Category 5
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Dust removal by clone tool..( it doesn't matter how much you celan these baby's...they will always pick up dust on the glass).......a little sharpening around the bezel cutouts......and that's it.

So, my "Just colour and light balancing and maybe a bit of dust removal" was pretty much on the ball. That's cheered me up. :D

The EXIF data claims it's taken at f32, but I find that hard to believe. It looks more like f8-f11 to me.

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No...you were only partially correct.....dust removal...( but that's a given )......no colour balancing and no light adjustment.......the exif data is correct....f32...!

Edited by TTK
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You can easily make one. Al you have to do is take an image (out of focus) of the screen or a printout of the free greyscale chart. The softwrae automatically makes the profiles from that. Shoot the card at each ISO.

Thanks for that - I later realised I had jumped the gun with my first post. I found a profile for a very similar model and used that to excellent effect - it had better 'out of the box' one-click results than Noise Ninja for my camera (and I thought the Noise Ninja results were good, but in comparison the NN resulting photos were a bit 'softer' for want of a better description). I'll have to try out the other link as well.....!

Cheers! :thumbsupsmileyanim:

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@Pugwash.....DOF is important when I shoot ...because of the flat angles I shoot at.....edge to edge crispness is important......!

Personally I don't bother my [censored] with all that Noise Ninja stuff....etc etc....I'm an old fashioned photographer.....I prefer to do everything with the camera.....if I can......the benefit of digital for me is speed.....my shots are formulaic....that's why the Minolta is the best camera for me.....just use Memory 1.....and it's all set up.....! :D

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Personally I don't bother my [censored] with all that Noise Ninja stuff....etc etc....I'm an old fashioned photographer.....I prefer to do everything with the camera.....if I can.

Noise Ninja and the like just remove CCD issues: they deal with problems of digital cameras, not of photographers.

Noise is a side-effect of CCDs in digital photography. No matter how good a photographer, ye cannae change the laws of physics. :D

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All cameras will generate the noise even at low ISO, at least in shadow areas. the best with respect to this are Canon DSLRs because they use the MUCH less noisy CMOS chips over CCD. To date they are hte only ones.

You will not have issues with noise usually when resizing for the web because the noise get's lost in the image size reduction. Noise is most visible on an untouched file when viewed at 1/1. Neat Image is most beneficial when i shoot ISO 800 or 1600 on my DSLRs. They are pretty clean even at htese speeds, but after a correctly profiled run through Neat image they are about identical to ISO 100/200. I have even had useable results at ISO3200 with my 20D and 30D.

AQgain though, high ISO isn't really too necessary with watch photography unless you are trying to stop a running seconds hand without pulling the crown. ...and then, you better have some lenses capable of super small apertures, and or a ND filter handy.

Did I tell you I really like that shot of the sub?

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You will not have issues with noise usually when resizing for the web because the noise get's lost in the image size reduction. Noise is most visible on an untouched file when viewed at 1/1.

My Panasonic's main failing is its high noise over 100 ISO. It's unfortunate, but I find for the money the lens makes up for it. :D

Did I tell you I really like that shot of the sub?

You may have mentioned it. :D

Have you seen the MoonWatch pic too?

ps. Kind words always appreciated. :)

Edited by Pugwash
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