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Cheap vs, Expensive Replicas


zeus

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for the most part - you get what you pay for when dealing with *reputable* dealers. In some cases the cheap version will have the same case and construction as the expensive one but will lack the Swiss movement or the movement will be a real cheap one (DG2813 vs Asian 2824), lack AR (Anti-Reflective) coating and come with a cheap strap - if you're not picky, you can get many nice watches at a low price point but for the watch connoisseur, only the best version will do. Generally, the rule is - you get what you pay for.

pick your dealer 1st, then your watch

also, NO NEED TO YELL ;)

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for the most part - you get what you pay for when dealing with *reputable* dealers. In some cases the cheap version will have the same case and construction as the expensive one but will lack the Swiss movement or the movement will be a real cheap one (DG2813 vs Asian 2824), lack AR (Anti-Reflective) coating and come with a cheap strap - if you're not picky, you can get many nice watches at a low price point but for the watch connoisseur, only the best version will do. Generally, the rule is - you get what you pay for.

pick your dealer 1st, then your watch

also, NO NEED TO YELL ;)

Thank you alphakazi...so all the story is about the movement and the crysrall....right ?

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No, it s not only that.

Take for example the Submariners. The cheap one noobmariner with a chinese movement is a great rep but the more expensive Euromariner has the same dimensions with gen so it can take genuine parts..

your question has been discussed here. There is an expoential graph of quality / price. You can get a rep with 80% identical to the gen for 100 bucks, but you may pay 400 bucks for an additional 10% . . .

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Agreed--with all aforementioned.

However, keep in mind, that "final 10%" can make all the difference. If you get a watch that has cheap glass and other details compromised (sometimes case is lower grade SS, or dial/hands are cheap), you don't really feel like wearing it. Particularly if you have some better reps, and know the difference. It seems that the longer one collects reps, the lower tolerance one has for mediocrity.

I'll live with a lower-end movement if trying out something new--if the rest of the package is the same as the high-end version... Though, if I really like a particular model, I want the best movement I can get.

RSM

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I'll live with a lower-end movement if trying out something new--if the rest of the package is the same as the high-end version... Though, if I really like a particular model, I want the best movement I can get.

...it also depends on which lower end reps and higher priced ones you are talking about. High priced ones from scam sites are not worth the prices...cheap reps from Canal St. or Chinatowns the world over aren't worth the $50 they charge generally.

So...you get what you pay for sure...but generally only if you buy from the collectors recommended here.

I've seen $100 quartz Cousteau Divers on iOffer that say "similar case to and dial and construction as the more expensive automatic". Similar? Sure...the dial was round and had orange in it. Is that close enough for you to save $200? Perhaps...for me...no way. The caseback was off, rehaut wrong size, date font bad, etc, etc.

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Agreed--with all aforementioned.

However, keep in mind, that "final 10%" can make all the difference. If you get a watch that has cheap glass and other details compromised (sometimes case is lower grade SS, or dial/hands are cheap), you don't really feel like wearing it. Particularly if you have some better reps, and know the difference. It seems that the longer one collects reps, the lower tolerance one has for mediocrity.

I'll live with a lower-end movement if trying out something new--if the rest of the package is the same as the high-end version... Though, if I really like a particular model, I want the best movement I can get.

RSM

I'd agree with that point. Although initially, when I saw the PAM I bought in Spain, I thought it might have been salvageable as a project (ie add a decent crown and CG etc) but the more I looked at it, the less viable it became. The case is plated brass, so that would eventually look like crap, and, unless I can release the stem, I won't be able to even remove the movement for a new case... If that's the case, it might just wind up as a dial transplant (with the movement physically ripped from the case) or even just a paperweight ;)

I do think it depends on a person's expectations and requirements in a watch or project, but, I also think there does come a point in collecting, where one becomes unable to overlook flaws when they make the watch itself non-viable...

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