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Advantage, Photoshop CS4


Antonio

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Have been working with Photoshop CS4's new features. HAD to try this one with my Big Pilot.

Normally, in a macro shot, you need a lens or camera system capable of swings and tilts to carry depth-of-field, or at least a TON of light and a tiny aperture.

For this I shot with just the modeling light into a softbox (and a bunch of reflectors, of course), no tilt of the lens (an 85mm PC Nikkor) and f/2.8.

First image is the normal depth-of-field you get with that setup, the second one combines ten images with the focus shifted slightly for each one. Auto-stacked, blended and aligned in Photoshop. It's amazing! I didn't retouch any of the small problem areas (end of the second hand, tops of the I and C in the logo, etc.). This can be a HUGE help for anyone wanting more depth-of-field in hard lighting situations.

post-2119-1225478461_thumb.jpg

post-2119-1225478472_thumb.jpg

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I see PC users can get it for $20 BARGAIN - I just need to lay my hands on a Mac version... :g:

If you're pirating it, don't pay for it.

I've not yet tried the new features in Photoshop CS4, but I've done the layering one by hand on earlier versions. Astro-photographers have been doing it for years (Registacks springs to mind) with webcams on telescopes using this sort of technique to remove atmospheric blurring. I can't wait to see what they can do with this in Photoshop instead!

Thanks for the post, it's making me think.

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Have been working with Photoshop CS4's new features. HAD to try this one with my Big Pilot.

Normally, in a macro shot, you need a lens or camera system capable of swings and tilts to carry depth-of-field, or at least a TON of light and a tiny aperture.

For this I shot with just the modeling light into a softbox (and a bunch of reflectors, of course), no tilt of the lens (an 85mm PC Nikkor) and f/2.8.

First image is the normal depth-of-field you get with that setup, the second one combines ten images with the focus shifted slightly for each one. Auto-stacked, blended and aligned in Photoshop. It's amazing! I didn't retouch any of the small problem areas (end of the second hand, tops of the I and C in the logo, etc.). This can be a HUGE help for anyone wanting more depth-of-field in hard lighting situations.

Definitely neat! Maybe it's just the particular shot, but it seems there's a little left to desire in sharpness. And now, not being a macro expert let me ask, is there some reason why you'd want to use this method as opposed to slow shutter speeds when shooting inanimate objects like watches?

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Definitely neat! Maybe it's just the particular shot, but it seems there's a little left to desire in sharpness. And now, not being a macro expert let me ask, is there some reason why you'd want to use this method as opposed to slow shutter speeds when shooting inanimate objects like watches?

I was just trying it out. Easiest way to illustrate it for my blog. The masking for each layer is really intricate and complex. Ultimately, it's just another tool. Long shutter speed or more light and using the tilt on a perspective-correction lens makes the job easier, but sometimes this is easier or more obtainable. It's an extreme example.

Other tools, like content-aware scaling, are also mind-blowing tools that have their application. Camera Raw 5 has some great enhancements, the entire program is faster, all the algorithms have been improved to make it possible to make cleaner files than ever. I've only begun to play with it.

Oh, and the upgrade is only $199. For those of us who use it every day, it's a great deal.

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Definitely neat! Maybe it's just the particular shot, but it seems there's a little left to desire in sharpness. And now, not being a macro expert let me ask, is there some reason why you'd want to use this method as opposed to slow shutter speeds when shooting inanimate objects like watches?

Sure is. You can't use really tight apertures on most macro lenses, and if you do, they're a function of the distance from the lens.

In other words, because slow shutter speeds and high f-stops simply don't cut it for Macro work.

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Sure is. You can't use really tight apertures on most macro lenses, and if you do, they're a function of the distance from the lens.

I suppose you mean depth of field is a function of distance from the lens and focal length. This is always the case, though, and you can calculate it rather easily. Feasibility is still dependent on the specific lens, though.

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I was just trying it out. Easiest way to illustrate it for my blog. The masking for each layer is really intricate and complex. Ultimately, it's just another tool. Long shutter speed or more light and using the tilt on a perspective-correction lens makes the job easier, but sometimes this is easier or more obtainable. It's an extreme example.

Other tools, like content-aware scaling, are also mind-blowing tools that have their application. Camera Raw 5 has some great enhancements, the entire program is faster, all the algorithms have been improved to make it possible to make cleaner files than ever. I've only begun to play with it.

Oh, and the upgrade is only $199. For those of us who use it every day, it's a great deal.

$199 is a nice deal. I'm still plugging away in my CS2 bootleg. :)

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$199 is a nice deal. I'm still plugging away in my CS2 bootleg. :)

I buy some reps, but do keep legal on software. I make my living using them. I tried using a Photoshop rep once. The datewheel was wrong, the CGs were the way off, the bezel pearl was awful and flat, no lume... ;-)

Psystar and one other company make rep Macs. They have fans that are loud like 10,000 improperly lubricated A7750 rotors.

FWIW, slow shutter speeds can work for Macro stuff if you flip the mirror up and have a REALLY good tripod, I often use the self-timer AND an electronic release in those situations. But a whole lotta watt-seconds (big strobe system) is much easier. Using a PC lens with the ability to tilt (scheimpflug) or a large format system helps a lot with real DOF as well.

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I buy some reps, but do keep legal on software. I make my living using them. I tried using a Photoshop rep once. The datewheel was wrong, the CGs were the way off, the bezel pearl was awful and flat, no lume... ;-)

Psystar and one other company make rep Macs. They have fans that are loud like 10,000 improperly lubricated A7750 rotors.

FWIW, slow shutter speeds can work for Macro stuff if you flip the mirror up and have a REALLY good tripod, I often use the self-timer AND an electronic release in those situations. But a whole lotta watt-seconds (big strobe system) is much easier. Using a PC lens with the ability to tilt (scheimpflug) or a large format system helps a lot with real DOF as well.

Yea, I use mirror lockup, a Gitzo tripod, and a cable release...

f/8, 2s, 100mm, resized :

3717_1.jpg

Still need to play around with some super close up macros though.

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FWIW, slow shutter speeds can work for Macro stuff if you flip the mirror up and have a REALLY good tripod, I often use the self-timer AND an electronic release in those situations. But a whole lotta watt-seconds (big strobe system) is much easier. Using a PC lens with the ability to tilt (scheimpflug) or a large format system helps a lot with real DOF as well.

Well, yes, you can spend yourself out of any problem, if you have the cash.

Using my Macro lens, I have zero control over aperture. :)

DSLR reverse Macro

I'll try this technique over the next few days.

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This is a nice feature. I'm not quite used to the new CS4 interface.. I have both cs3 and cs4 installed and find myself opening CS3 most of the time.

As for picture.. a 90mm Tamron 2.8Di macro lens at F45 do a great job... if you have a 10-20sec exposure time :D

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Well, yes, you can spend yourself out of any problem, if you have the cash.

Using my Macro lens, I have zero control over aperture. :)

DSLR reverse Macro

I'll try this technique over the next few days.

Pug,

Yeah. I make my living at it, so I can buy the toys.

The reversing ring is an EXCELLENT idea. I used to use one in the manual camera days. With modern DSLRs, they didn't recommend them for Nikon, now it looks like they make one that clears the contacts. There are two, actually. One is for 52mm thread, one for 62mm thread.

Best results with these often comes from a wide angle lens, you get much greater magnification. My favorite lens to use was the manual-focus 24mm, you could shoot scary close. That with an extension tube, you could have shot the S in "Swiss Made". Also, if you can pick up an older manual Nikon lens(will work this way on a Canon, since you're reverse-mounting it), you can control the aperture.

Can't wait to see what you come up with, now. I know it'll be good!

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