Quartz crown stem removal

[TeeJay]

I know that removing stems from automatic and manual movements is pretty much a case of depressing the release stud or loosening a retaining screw, but how would one go about removing the crown stem of a quartz movement?

I only ask, as I want to strip down my X-33 to try a hand-transplant, and this obviously requires removing the crown. I've looked at the movement, but the only 'stud' and 'screw' by the stem, do absolutely nothing...

Any suggestions?

[RWG Technical]

There is a release somewhere, look on the center line of the stem, and follow it and look on each side of the stem where it enters the movement, somewhere there is a release...on some models there is a hole, and if you pull the crown to the time setting position, you will see a lever to depress and release the crown. They are all slightly different, but the principles are the same. Some have an arrow marking the release button...

RG

[TeeJay]

There is a release somewhere, look on the center line of the stem, and follow it and look on each side of the stem where it enters the movement, somewhere there is a release...on some models there is a hole, and if you pull the crown to the time setting position, you will see a lever to depress and release the crown. They are all slightly different, but the principles are the same. Some have an arrow marking the release button...

RG

Thanks for the advice Is it possible that the release might be closer to the middle of the movement than at the edge?

The sides of the movement aren't really accessible while the movement is in the case, so I'm guessing the release would be on the upper surface, as per other movements... There is a small silicone 'stud' to the left of the stem, pretty much where the release stud would be on an automatic movement, but it does not actually move when pressure is applied... On the right hand side of the stud, in a mirrored position, is a small screw, but, loosening it does not release the stud, and I suspect is just anchoring the circuit board in place...

[RWG Technical]

It could be anywhere, but certainly somewhere close to the center line of the stem. If you can't find it, then one option that I have used is to simply grab the stem with small pliers, and unscrew the crown and remove the movement this way. It does the trick and there is no risk of damage to the movement.

RG

[TeeJay]

It could be anywhere, but certainly somewhere close to the center line of the stem. If you can't find it, then one option that I have used is to simply grab the stem with small pliers, and unscrew the crown and remove the movement this way. It does the trick and there is no risk of damage to the movement.

RG

That's use full to know, thank you I'll have another look at the movement, and if it looks too awkward, I might just give the project a miss and live with the factory hands (hour hands has no lume at all )

Thanks again

[freddy333]

Like Ziggy said, there should be a small screw on the back face of the movement (the side that faces you when you remove the caseback) adjacent to the stem. If you are unable to locate it, can you post a good, clear macro (close-up) picture of the movement?

[TeeJay]

Like Ziggy said, there should be a small screw on the back face of the movement (the side that faces you when you remove the caseback) adjacent to the stem. If you are unable to locate it, can you post a good, clear macro (close-up) picture of the movement?

Here're some photos, but I have to admit, I'm stumped... I can't see anything which resembles a release stud which actually moves, as all the screws and studs are solid. There's an opening in the circuit board which has some kind of 'workings' underneath, but they don't appear to be part of a release mechanism (and I didn't want to kill the movement by jamming things into it )

I've re-cased the watch, and it's working ( ) but I'm no further forward to my goal

[freddy333]

Ziggy's suggestion of remove the crown from the stem may be your only option. But, before trying that, try pressing 1 (although it looks like it may be just a locating pin), unscrewing 2 (though it is really too far inward to be a release & it is hard to tell if it is even a screw from the picture) & unscrewing 3 (which looks like it is just there to secure the circuit board to the frame)

In some cases, you need to remove the circuit board to get to the stem release, which may be the case here.

[TeeJay]

Ziggy's suggestion of remove the crown from the stem may be your only option. But, before trying that, try pressing 1 (although it looks like it may be just a locating pin), unscrewing 2 (though it is hard to tell if it is even a screw from the picture) & unscrewing 3 (which looks like it is just there to secure the circuit board to the frame)

I think you're right, crown removal might be the only option. Sadly, I don't have any pliers small enough to actually grip the stem inside the case (the crown is fully extended in the pictures )

Indeed, I've tried pressing 1, and as you say, it might just be a locating pin as that doesn't move at all. Number 3, again, is just there to secure the circuit board, but what you've marked as number 2, is not actually a screw, that's just a trick of the light and the shadows making it look like a screw...

Or, as you say, it might require removing the circuit board all together to get to the release, and, although I'm confident in my ability to deconstruct the parts, I'm not so confident that they will work once re-assembled

Thanks for taking a look though, it's much appreciated

[freddy333]

You know, 3 is in the correct location for a stem release. But while the Philips screw may not be the release, removing it may allow you to either see a screw through the hole or allow you to lift the circuit board a bit to see what is under it in that area. Just lift the board gently & do not force it.

[TeeJay]

You know, 3 is in the correct location for a stem release. But while the Philips screw may not be the release, removing it may allow you to either see a screw through the hole or allow you to lift the circuit board a bit to see what is under it in that area. Just lift the board gently & do not force it.

That's certainly a possibility I think I'm going to have to admit defeat with this one though. This is the first time pretty much since I bought the watch that I've actually wanted to wear it, so I'd be pretty frustrated if I was to kill the movement while the watch is still 'in the zone' Not only that, but it's not really replaceable, so I think any work to it will have to be left to more qualified hands than mine

[freddy333]

'A man's gotta know his limitations.' --Clint Eastwood, Magnum Force

[TeeJay]

'A man's gotta know his limitations.' --Clint Eastwood, Magnum Force

Couldn't've put it any better myself

[offshore]

TeeJay,

Try pulling the crown in and out, at the same time closely looking at the movement.

See if you can see anything moving.

I see a small cut away area on your 1st photo, at about 10 o'clock, and suspect you may find a small lever, with a depression in it somewhere there. (although that could be for the pusher)

Wherever you can find something moving, you will likely find the release!

If you can tell me the movement make/model, I can look at one and see if I can spot your solution. (I will have one here!)

Offshore

[marrickvilleboy]

The Zigmeister's idea of securing the stem with pliers and then unscrewing the crown off is not going to work here. You have no space to work with a plier.

Keep looking for possible button release.

[TeeJay]

TeeJay,

Try pulling the crown in and out, at the same time closely looking at the movement.

See if you can see anything moving.

I see a small cut away area on your 1st photo, at about 10 o'clock, and suspect you may find a small lever, with a depression in it somewhere there. (although that could be for the pusher)

Wherever you can find something moving, you will likely find the release!

If you can tell me the movement make/model, I can look at one and see if I can spot your solution. (I will have one here!)

Offshore

I've re-cased the watch, as I didn't want to push my luck before killing it

The indentation you've mentioned, is where the pusher contacts the movement.

I'm not too sure about a movement serial, but, the first three letters I can make out, are "JYD". The watch is an Omega Speedmaster Professional X-33, which was purchased from Silix about a year ago. I'm not sure if they are available anymore, if I recall, Silix was the only source of them at the time...

[TeeJay]

Ziggy's idea of securing the stem with pliers and then unscrewing the crown off is not going to work here. You have no space to work with a plier.

Keep looking for possible button release.

If I had a set of 1mm needlenose pliars, I could probably do it. Sadly, I don't have a set of pliars that small

I think my best bet is to leave this job to a professional, as I can't run the risk of killing the movement