so I take my dssd to the local watchmaker and

[Guest carlsbadrolex]

Would someone please take this guys DSSD away from him before he hurts himself or someone else with it? I mean seriously... Next we are going to hear he took out a full page ad in some newspaper about how much he loves his new Rolex.

[dandonnelly]

I am not really worried anymore I pulled out my gen air king and it makes even more noise than my dssd and I had it serviced last year!

[SportsterRider]

If 'tight enough' is gauged by if a watch leaks when it goes under water, I've never had a watch leak after I've used 'the glove treatment' on them, unless there was an actual issue with the watch (which the replacement did not share) It might not get a caseback done up quite as tightly as a case wrench, but certainly good enough to get a seal, if the watch itself is capable of being sealed Also, doing up something too tightly, is just as likely to deform or damage the gasget

Good point. For most of us, 'diving' isn't on the requirement list, so the rubber glove deal is probably fine. But I doubt you'd have a problem deforming the o-ring by over tightening - unless you're a gorilla?

Personally, for as cheap as a proper case back tool is, I'd still rather do it the right way.

[SportsterRider]

The case back seal is different to the crown seal. The crown seal is an 'O' ring and made of different stuff to the majority of case back seals which are a flat seal of a different compound. They are not made for repeted opening and closing and are supposed to be replaced when opened if max water resistance is to be maintained.

While I've seen a few case backs that use a flat rubber seal, I haven't seen one like that in years (I do see them on crowns, however). All of my reps, at least, use a round o-ring, that is absolutely no different than what is used on the crown.

Maybe genuine watches, like Rolex, Omega, Patek, etc, use different compounds for different seals, but I seriously doubt that reps do. It's rubber. If it's properly lubed and not damaged, it'll re-seal just fine.

[SportsterRider]

I'm actually glad others find a lot of case backs hard to open, as I thought I must be the only one, who couldn't make a sticky ball/duct tape/rubber gloves/suction tool...et al, work!

My most handy tool is a case crab, which works 99% of the time on "normal" casebacks, but of course is no use on Rolex style backs.

And at times a decent press style opener is the only answer.

The right tool for the job, is always the better option.

Offshore

Yep. On one of my VIPMariners, I was able to remove the case back with dish gloves like TeeJay pictured. It was the only one though.

[TeeJay]

Good point. For most of us, 'diving' isn't on the requirement list, so the rubber glove deal is probably fine. But I doubt you'd have a problem deforming the o-ring by over tightening - unless you're a gorilla?

Personally, for as cheap as a proper case back tool is, I'd still rather do it the right way.

I think you're right, that actual diving isn't necessarily a requirement for many of us, rather than say, splashing about in the pool, or acting like a pimp with our wives' friends in the hot-tub, and making their Casio-wearing husbands feel inferior

I think there's definitely no argument that the right for the right job will get it done the best, but, that's not to say that 'budget shortcuts' don't have a place as well

[SportsterRider]

It's worked on every watch that I've ever tried it on. If it's not working, chances are that you need to add more size (tape) to the ball, or change your approach. I always take the bracelet/band off, and grip the lugs to apply force in the opposite direction, so maybe that's why I've never had a problem.

I've tried it every way imaginable. It just doesn't work for me, and I have some pretty strong hands! Maybe I've just been fortunate with my reps having a properly tightened case back? Who knows...

As for the not being tight enough, I like this quote from one of the caseback tool reviews I read:

"It is a myth that a case back has to be closed with a huge momentum in order to guarantee water resistance. Many people use too much force when closing case backs. A gasket ring in good condition is much more important then too many KN closing momentum."

I agree that using every ounce of strength you have is definitely not necessary, and often very bad. But a watch case back is really no different than any other hermetically sealed joint/valve/etc. Also, every genuine case back I've ever removed required a tool. That tells me that it needs to be tighter than you can get with your fingers if you want it to be 'sealed' to it's rated depth. For swimming, bathing, etc, you can certainly get away with 'finger' tight, though.

[SportsterRider]

I think there's definitely no argument that the right for the right job will get it done the best, but, that's not to say that 'budget shortcuts' don't have a place as well

Agreed. I've got the gloves, the ball and the duct tape in my drawer-o-tools! And yes, they're only for working on watches, I swear!!

Looks like me in the morning when trying to operate the coffee maker!

[TeeJay]

Agreed. I've got the gloves, the ball and the duct tape in my drawer-o-tools! And yes, they're only for working on watches, I swear!!

Looks like me in the morning when trying to operate the coffee maker!

So much for the 'special parties'

[freddy333]

Here's how I open those stubborn casebacks. Just give 'er a tug, full throttle, presto! All the watches are open.

Of course if the chainsaw won't open the caseback there's always the "never fails" method. It just takes good aim.

Someone must be over-fluoridating the water up there.

[sammalone]

never had success with the rubber gloves, but the ball of duct tape has always worked....good luck!