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Rolex crown for 6263


the collector

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The 6263/5's all had Triplocks- The Cosmographs with Oyster signed dials were outfitted with Triplocks from the start, not Twinlocks. Twinlockers were the 6239/6240, etc with non-Oyster signed dials.

As such, any Triplock 7mm crown is sufficient for a 6263/5, as it is likely these have been replaced during a service with the most recent variation. 24-703 should work nicely.

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Guest avitt

I think that this is germane...Here is a comparison between two of the aftermarket Triplock tubes. On the left is the version from Cousins (Clockspares.com), and on the right is the Helfands version (please excuse the dried lock-tight). I can't comment on the quality, other than to say that I've already torqued the threads off one of the Helfands...my fault entirely.

31808-40282.jpg

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Guest avitt
Do anybody know a US source for Triplock tubes (Clockspares is Uk), please PM me ?

I tryed Helfands, way too short. they can be secure more adding glue, but no my choise. :thumbdown:

I'm in the US, and Cousins delivered within a week of my order, with reasonable shipping costs. (However, I'm open to alternate source as well).

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Guest avitt

That case is an aftermarket.

It's my understanding that vintage Daytona's don't use gaskets around the crystal. You could probably use one...I'd suggest a flat gasket, with in internal diameter of about 29.5mm. I'm not sure what this would do to the watch's profile.

Another suggestion (which comes from Nanuq) would be to spread a little silicone grease around the lip of the case, before fitting the crystal.

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Fully aggre with Nanuq

I have try to make and test my DW water proof, and only made about 0.1 atm (1.3 meter :whistling: ) during water test, a tiny bubble started to form next to upper pusher.

This make my watch water proof, but no water resistant :angry:

P

Correct, most vintage don't have a gasket there, like the sapphire crystals use. It's a raised lip over which the crystal fits, then the retaining ring squeezes the crystal down onto the lip. A little grease in the two interfaces helps.

The exception to this rule is the 1665 Sea-dweller. Beneath the crystal retaining ring there is a machined groove into which an o-ring fits. The ring presses down on the o-ring and "inward" against the crystal.

If it were up to me, I wouldn't take a chrono in the water. Just too many places for it to leak, "Oyster" designated or not. I save the swimming for my dive watches.

Edited by pitimany
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Guest avitt

Thanks collector. That's the Cousins tube. I'm impressed with the quality. BTW, theres no need for a special tool to install this tube...a T8 Torx bit does the job perfectly.

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Thanks collector. That's the Cousins tube. I'm impressed with the quality. BTW, theres no need for a special tool to install this tube...a T8 Torx bit does the job perfectly.

I have what appears to be helfand tube and the T8 Torx does not work, even a T10 is too small for the inner tube, so I'm off buying the real tool!

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Guest avitt

@Halley, it's never a bad idea to get the right tool for the job...But I should have given you a bit more information. Here is a picture of the bits that I use.

34611-39632.jpg

A Mibro Torx T9 insert bit is perfect for the helfands tube, while a T8 is the one for the Cousins tube (hmm...I guess the Cousins has longer threads AND a thicker wall). It's really the shoulder of the bits that snug onto the tubes. The teeth do pass through, like you've mentioned. Here's an end shot:

34611-39633.jpg

These really work well for me. And holding the bits by hand helps to ensure that I don't overtorque anything.

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