Leaderboard

.

Bulova 14K gold automatic from 1953 (L3). Bought December 12, 1996 for $100, had the dial refinished about 20 years ago plus c/o, crystal, and crown around the same time. The autowind assembly was famous for not being very efficient so this movement was only made 1952-1954. Never wore it much at all but it still runs Ok...if you hand wind it. Back then...it cost $39 to have the dial refinished including return postage. Buckle is also 14K and the scrap gold to make the buckle was about $35 or $40 (pawn shop price) plus casting supplies = about $50. The dial company is gone now and gold watch prices have gone up since then. A little bit. Gold closed at $368 end of December 1996. April 25, 2025 it was $3348. Jimmythree is automatico.

I saved a few from about 20+ years ago, still nos and here is what they are: Mine are '5514 COMEX' watches with new (now 'nos' Ha!) ETA 2836 movements and fair dials. The case neck where the crystal fits on the case is oem spec and the case tube threads are oem spec too. The case tubes and crowns are not oem spec other than the threads in the case. The helium escape valve is identical to oem (I compared one with a nos genuine valve). Mine have oversized rotating bezels lightly pressed down over the crystal...not same as genuine at all and the bezels are easy to remove with a blade. An oem spec crystal and bezel kit will fit the case same as genuine. The lug holes are too small for submariner type spring bars but are centered in the lugs and can be drilled out. The case is a bit 'fat' so it may need slimming down a bit and maybe some attention to the crown guards. The case back gasket is mounted in a groove cut into the case...not in the case back like a regular genuine 5513. Some genuine 5514 COMEX watches I have seen in pics had the gasket in the case. ?? A mystery of a sort. They have hollow mid link bracelets with blind screws in the removable links. Blind = no hole in the links opposite the screw head where the slot is. They have 'sidewinder' clasp caps with the coronet stamped sideways on the cap. Another mystery. All in all they would be good for a project using a better dial, (maybe), oem crystal and bez assembly, drilled lugs etc. and a fresh 21600 beat ETA. Have a couple "COMEX' 1680 too but can not remember any details about them, have not seen them in years. They all came from 'Paul' at ABAY'. Possibly before he was using the ABAY website name...it was a looong time ago. 'Paul' was A-Ok! and he sent me quite a bit of free stuff too. Old Timers will remember his 'Crazy Sales!' from back then. Times (and prices!) sure have changed. J3 is automatico.

Guys...here I am to briefly present my latest build. It is a Grand Seiko diver homage. Unfortunately I was unable to find a satisfactory dial. With this (third dial) I completed everything, even if I should find a suitable crown like that of a genuine one. I am not displeased with the final result, but I am still hoping for some improvements. I also have the bracelet that I plan to mount later. Here are the photos.

I have been searching incessantly for a GS diver dial, but it is not available as a replica or as a homage.... After a long time I managed to find a good quality one for my build that was finished about a week ago. Here is the result:

Excellent. Whats your BoM? (parts list/source)

That looks great , 👍

Today with bracelet...

It looks great!

HI. If you have to sacrifice the existing tube, you must take a pair of pliers with pointed noses and remove it without twisting to avoid it breaking. I repeat, the tube should be the one with a snap-fit (without thread). Otherwise (i.e. with a screwed tube) you must unscrew it counterclockwise. Having said that, I still recommend that you first purchase the tube + crown kit and test its compatibility with the existing tube without disassembling it. If it is not compatible, you can proceed with disassembly. Oh by the way, it's the same all over the world...I think that every place in the world can have its positive sides, but also its negative ones. Have a nice day.

.

I've often been asked how a modified ST19 case compares to a Vietnam V72 case, the latter known to be the closest to gen you can get. Even if I always answer after my mods the cartel case is very close, I'd say 99% because pushers and crown position SLIGHTLY differ, I feel I'm not believed... So here you go !!! See a Phong case beside a Cartel case. Both refinished of course as a stock Phong case isn't that exciting... And you can see for yourself how similar they are on the outside. I won't say which is which... I let you guys guess since some say it's obvious.... It's often stated as a no go the cartel is thicker. It isn't much, it's because of the stock shape, very straight on the sides, that one you'd get the illusion it's much too fat. A V72 movement is not taller than the ST19 (Venus 175). ST 19 is a larger diameter, but that doesn't show once cased. Also, at the end, see a genuine bezel beside a combo of a cartel bezel modified with a Vietnam insert and reshaped. Of course the font differs, I've never seen a 1:1 rep of a 6263 insert, but overall we're there ! It's close enough to be enjoyed when worn. Pictures are unforgiving... End word : a ST19 build is about 1/4 of the price of a V72 build...

So it’s been a bit since I ordered a rep - this one looks good to me, but want to hear what others say. IMG_9312.mp4

.

Now is active on this link: repgeek.com