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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/23/2025 in all areas
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Rlx '6426'... Not really. It is something I stuck together about 12 years ago and traded away. Got it back last week, the fellow I traded it to never wore it. It is same as new except for a few spring bar scratches on the lug backs. Case is from JMB and I do not know where he got it...34mm and takes Rlx oem spec crystals and bezels. Crystal is a GS 12 and the bez came with the watch. Aftmkt case tube with genuine 5.3mm crown. The dial and hands are from Yuki 12+ years back. The markers are yellow aged, the script is goldtone as are the hands. The movement is a low mileage swiss ETA 2789 with the autowind assembly removed. Why was the awa removed? Because the case has a 'flat back' and will not clear the a/w rotor...it's really a 'tooter' type case. Can't find a solid case back that will clear the rotor, have one with a crystal in it but that lets the 🐱 out of the bag. Besides that, it says 'Oyster Perpetual' on the dial. Sterling silver (.925) 16mm buckle on a ZRC strap. Check this out...eBay item number 203157031954 '100% guaranteed authentic!' A 6426 is manual wind with acrylic crystal and this one states: "Rolex self-winding movement" "Scratch Resistant Sapphire Crystal." J3 is automatico.3 points
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Hello Gang, I want to show you my new modded GMt with new Old- Crowns Case Here it is. Gesendet von meinem 23078PND5G mit Tapatalk2 points
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Hey Gang, today I build up a Tudor Oyster Prince Sub. Case is from Old-Crowns, nice and slim. T-19 Plexi Vintage Crown Nice chapter Dial matte varnished Hands that match the color of the Dial Indices. A-Eta movement with deleted Date function. Insert semi matte with Atthaya Pearl 380B Endlinks Good 93150 hollow midlink bracelet with diver extension. Fat Sprinbars2 points
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In my opinion the 126610 Sub is the best modern 6 digit Sub. Much better than 116610 with his ugly thick Lugs. Much more defined like an old 5 digit Submariner. Slimmer Lugs and a wider Bracelet is really nice But this are my 2Cents[emoji6] Gesendet von meinem 23078PND5G mit Tapatalk2 points
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Updated the LV from a friend with new Crystal and Insert. Did some work on the Case, some brushing etc.[emoji6] Gesendet von meinem 23078PND5G mit Tapatalk2 points
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Build from various Parts laying around, some from friends and other older Parts found in my Boxes. I think it turned out nice[emoji6] Gesendet von meinem 23078PND5G mit Tapatalk2 points
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You have given very good advice! Why didn't I think of replacing the bracelet? People get sick and their brains stop working... The happy thing is that I'm better now and everything is back to routine. I'll look into a new bracelet as an alternative though, thanks.😃1 point
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100% agree. Those thick lugs squared off the case too much. The 126610 symmetry and balance is great. 👍🏼1 point
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Bronzo with leather from DC Straps paired with a recently acquired Bronze Buckle (left in White Vinegar and Salt for a few hours, just to get it close with the natural Patina on the watch) Sent from my SM-S921B using Tapatalk1 point
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Thank you, this was more of a fun build. 6 digit Case reshaped and brushed. Older Six digit Dial with Indices from an really old ugly Daytona, also the Hands comes from this watch. The Bezel is an old Custom produced one, long time ago. Movement is slim 7753 unfortunately second@6, but who cares[emoji6] The bracelet parts are 78360 hollow midlink, clasp is also found in my drawer. Gesendet von meinem 23078PND5G mit Tapatalk1 point
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'Nice'? For a watch built out of parts, I think it turned out Tribal (ie, outstanding).1 point
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It is a 7016/1, but thank you. I wish I could find the threads -- they were classics -- but my Rose Tudor Sub was 1 of a few dozen that were purchased as part of a group buy around 2009. I am still ambivalent as to their authenticity -- gen or franken? All of the watches contained gen Tudor (ETA) movements, which were correct for their respective references, but they could have been pulls from other watches. Also. the specific references varied -- some were 7016/1s like mine, but there were other Sub references with slightly different Tudor Sub dials -- if I remember correctly, they were all Rose dials. The cases and bracelets appeared to be gen, but the dials & handsets were either service parts or rare aftermarket parts (back then, no one was offering Tudor Sub parts, so we assumed them to be later service parts). The debates over the authenticity of these watches continued for several years without any definitive answers either way. But all the watches were stunners that had natural looking patina & felt right in the hand.1 point
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I've got a smaller wrist myself, and sometimes even a millimeter or two can make a big difference in how comfortable a watch feels.1 point
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Like Freddy said, diameter is not the best metric here. I had a genuine 37mm Tudor BB54 and it was AWFULLY unbalanced and heavier than a 14060/16610. Also, I have had 39mm watches with Lug-to-Lug's in excess of 50mm. Precious metal like the Blue White Gold Submariner weighs more as well. That said, a neo-vintage Sub like the 14060 on a hollow 93150 braclet is probably the best option if you can go Gen. --- or find an ARF 16610 and swap to a 93150 with Hollow links... Otherwise, look into Titanium or Carbon cases. I just picked up the VSF NTTD v5 (all Ti) Bond Seamaster and is like I am not wearing a watch! Good luck.1 point
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I am sorry to hear about your injury, but is the problem with 40mm+ watches due to their size or weight? If it is a weight issue, why not just replace the metal bracelet on the larger Sub with a NATO, Zulu or rubber strap, any of which should reduce the weight to below that of a braceleted 37mm Sub?1 point
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I believe TJ is using Acetimer watch winder cases. They made a few different models in various sizes, number of winder pairs & wood finishes. I have a few of them myself, but unfortunately Acetimer's website went AWOL several years ago & I have not seen any for sale since then. They really are beautiful cases & the winders are quiet & work well, but their motors tend to fail after 10 or 12 years. In fact, I have been looking for replacement motors for 1 of my cases, but none of the motors I have received have been the correct type. To date, I have not found anything similar to the Acetimer, especially for the prices they originally sold for.1 point
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Fine looking MG! "two domed crystals ( very similar to my original 6538 crystal) but these have a metal retaining ring on the inside edge. Did not fit the case with the ring installed, removed the ring and the crystal fit the case. slightly smaller on the outside diameter so bezel is not a snug fit. Added some dial dots for extra security and it seems good.....might replace the dial dots with clear silicone." The 'gap obsession'... I know what you mean about 'the gap' around the outside of the dial. I did a '5512' project a few years back using a DW case, 1570, and Yuki dial. The case was made for 26.5mm dials so there was a very small gap around the OD of the dial and only the dial foot screws were holding the dial down. I made a very thin spacer out of aluminum to fill the gap and felt better about it...until I read later that a few of the earliest 5512 watches had the gap because they were using leftover dials with a smaller diameter than needed. Speaking of 'the gap',..here is an example of an early 5512 with the gap and without the SCOC blurb that came later... Rolex Submariner Eagle Beak Tropical Dial Ref. 5512 - Rolex Passion Market1 point
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Pam 518 on Simona Lo Storico Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk1 point