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As the parts starts arriving I thought I would start this latest build diary. This build is to create a 6152/1 four liner. Parts list: searched for and collected over some time on a tight budget. 2nd generation Jackson Fiddy 47mm case set. Athaya OPB case back. River LPMM Dial (painted black but unfinished) NW plexi. Athaya Angelus tall tube hands. Athaya brass movement ring. Movement initially a 3601 molly, but I picked up a really nice vintage 'Swiss' movement on the bay and if I can get a stem working and modify the hands to fit i'm going with that. Case to be heavily reshaped by me. Dial to be aged, wax filled and lumed by me. Strap will be made by me. Buckle will be one of Elias' beautiful creations, either the new compass vintage finish or a bronze. Some pics so far today's trial fitting

speedy

That's really cool, engrave the case back imo and don't worry about the value. It doesn't hurt the value that much if at all and I doubt she will ever want to sell such a thoughtful sentimental gift. It's really up to you as far as what to engrave.

Recent HKFAC acquisition...

Filson x Superdry x Noob 243

Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710e using Tapatalk 2

My god TTP it is a 30 dollar watch, you are buying a watch at less than you can get a Timex at Walmart. It is a sh*t rep but it may tell time so it is a watch, dude you have to get real on your expectations at those price points.

Go for it.

I just never understood these kinds of threads. If you like the watch, you buy it. If it's too big or looks stupid, you sell it. You know how big 40-odd mm is, right?

I agree 100% These 007-special editions look cheap and cheesy. Omega is only tarnishing their brand image with these. And how many Special Editions they do have? Is it really anything special when you put out a new one every year?

Hey guys, I've been fooling around with my new camera the last few days. I've had some time to photograph my Omegas here and there - figured I would post some photos up for everyone to see! Let me know what you guys think. With the new house and my 3 month old son kickin around, it looks like my collection may stay like this for the next while... FRANKENS: 1. Omega Planet Ocean (42mm) 2. Omega Seamaster 2254 with non AC dial mod 3. Omega Seamaster "GREAT WHITE" GMT GENUINE: 1. Omega Seamaster 300M "BOND" Quartz 2. Omega Seamaster 300M "BOND" Chronograph

Before you try to work on the movement...push the detent button and remove the stem. Then push the detent button again and insert the stem as far as it will go while slowly twisting it back and forth a few degrees and release the button. Pull out on the crown and see if it will click out into setting position. If it does, push the crown in to winding position and see if you can wind the watch. If it will set and wind...it is Ok. If not, read the paragraph below. That is a Seagull ST6D. They are easy to work on, but only after you memorize how the autowind assembly goes back together. To fix what is wrong (set lever out of position) you need to remove the aw assembly first, but there is always catch...if there is any power on the mainspring, little bitty stuff will fly everywhere when you remove the two screws that hold the aw assembly together. Anyway, what has to be done after removing the aw assembly is to remove the screw from the big wheel on the mainspring bridge and then remove the mainspring bridge. Next, take the two little gears out of the slot where the stem went through them to expose the set lever and push the set lever back into place and put it all back together. Nothin' to it. I have had so many of these cussed ST6 set levers slip by that I can reset the set lever in about 10 or 12 minutes. I am not bragging, I am complaining. Some tips on the ST6D... It has a plastic date part or two and if you try to quick set the date while it is changing, it can break a plastic part and the date will not work properly. You can let the power off the mainspring by placing a screwdriver in the screw in the center of the big wheel on the ms bridge and tightening it a tiny bit to take tension off the click spring and then move the click spring away from the ms wheel teeth while slowly letting the power off the ms by allowing the screwdriver to turn as the ms unwinds. This sounds a lot more complicated than it really is. Or you can do what I do...unscrew the screw on the big wheel and lift the wheel off and let it 'fly down' all at once. This is against all proper procedure but it is quick and easy. After all...it's a $15 movement. If you break anything, let me know and I will send the parts gratis...for some reason I have a lot of leftovers.

Wild, I have had 3 (newer generation) DG3804's come through my hands. Other than highly variable time keeping based on position (clearly these are only regulated in the face down position), I have not experienced any of those issues. 1.) Keyless works. True, a bit sloppy, and when installed in a gen case with all the seals and a hair off center-- sometimes it will hack, sometimes it wont. I have not had any issues removing the stem from either position. In fact, on the "DGs" I tend to remove them from the "Setting Position". While the keyless works leaves room for improvement, it gets the job done. I would not call it fragile however. 2.) I must be lucky here. I have not experienced that. 3.) Common sense on almost all movements. Considering the DG3804's price tag, they make for a great disposable movement that works. I also think the date wheel alignment is superior to a converted 2836+Overlay. Just my .02. Not perfect, but bang for the buck is there.

I thought I'd be more bothered by the design "updates", but I'm OK with most of them. Knurling? Cheap attempt at 'retro' with no basis in history? Maybe, but I find the contrast between the diamond texture and the brushed and polished surfaces pleasing. Hour markers on the bezel? I'm sure Tudor's just trying to put some distance between the Heritage Chrono and a Daytona, and I can't blame them for wanting to distinguish the brand. I would have preferred if they'd kept the cyclops, since its absence leaves a big grey or black expanse above the date, where nothing's going on. The only other parts that bother me are the teeny-weeny subdial hands that can't... quite... reach the outer markers. Regardless, I wouldn't kick it out of the watch box because of those. By the way, were those hour bezels only found on the 7169s, or were there 7032s that really had them?

Tell us. Aside from Josh, Andrew, (and King?) who will: -offer secure online purchasing -allow me to browse their up-to-date website with prices and multiple high-quality pictures with descriptions -ship the watch after I buy it. Not a month later -reply when somethings wrong -send me free parts to fix problems/broken bands -Reply to my Emails in an acceptable amount of time (a few hours max), in English, with legible sentences. -charge the same/less -ship the same (or better) quality pieces as we are receiving now. No 3rd rate garbage.