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It was suggested that I repost this for the knowledge base so I have revised it a bit. Before we start, this is a bit complicated and people may choose to weigh in with different opinions and explanations. If you choose to invest the time and effort necessary to follow this, it is not wasted. I am a Dive Master with something in excess of 3000 HRs underwater, and my second academic pursuit was Mechanical Engineering. I understand Boyles Law perfectly well, PV=NRT is very basic to me, and I am perfectly well qualified to teach this. I say that because there were some differences of opinion last time this was discussed. Here we go. Understand that there is pressurized air inside your watch. If you are standing at sea level, it should be at about 14.7 psi - but we will say 15 to keep the math easy. It doesn't seem pressurized to us because everything is at 15psi - standard atmospheric pressure. If you took that watch into outer space while stuck inside a skin tight balloon, and popped the stem (or otherwise compromised the structural integrity of the case), air would come rushing out to expand the balloon. If you can understand that -- everything else that follows will be simple. Personally, I have no use for a watch that isn't genuinely water resistant. I test all of mine: I think I can say with some confidance that the prevailing belief that reps are not waterproof is a holdover from the old days when they came with cardboard spacers and Timex movements. To test a watch, you put the watch in the device - feel free to use paperclips, or whatever you need to help suspend the watch if you prefer to leave the bracelet on. To start with, there is no reason to go overboard, so pump the pressure up to TWO of atmospheres. Now, if you are really following along, you would know that you have added two atmoshperes worth of pressure (30 PSI) to the cylinder outside the watch for a total pressure outside the watch of 45 PSI (since everything started at 15 psi). Now, LET THE WATCH HANG THERE A FEW MINUTES TO EQUALIZE IF IT IS GOING TO (Hopefully, it won't) If the watch equalized while up in the air, that means it is not airtight. In other words, and this is the part to understand, there was a small volume of air at normal atmospheric pressure inside the watch going into the chamber (say for example purposes on cubic inch of air at 15 PSI) If you add two atmospheres of pressure, you have tripled the pressure from 1 to 3, but if the watch is airtight, NOTHING happens inside. That's why men can spend forever in a submarine at significant depths with no decompression issues, but if the watch was an airtight balloon, you would watch it shrink to a third it's size which is exactly what you do see if you take a balloon down underwater about 66 feet. If the watch is not airtight, the pressure will equalize inside the watch and that means that the amount of air inside the watch will triple - three times the pressure means that three times the volume of air fits into the same space, so what we need to know is, do we have one cubic inch of air inside that one cubic inch case at 15 PSI, or three cubic inches of air at 45PSI. Lower the watch into the water. SLOWLY release the pressure -- did I say SLOWLY!!!!!! DO NOT - NOT - NOT dump the pressure. SLOWLY releasing the pressure releases the pressure on the enitre system - the air, the water, and the watch. As the pressure releases, NOTHING happens inside the airtight watch - like the men in the submarine, they don't know the difference. On the other hand, if our little experiment packed three cubic inches of air into a one cubic inch space, releasing the pressure makes that air want to come right back out. At this point, let me focus you on something - think about the inside of the watch case - including the space between the dial and the crystal. Even though the watch looks like it is pretty much filled up with a movement, there is still a LOT of airspace in there. If you take that volume and add twice that volume to it - twice the volume of airspace inside that watch is a LOT of air. When you release it, it isn't going to be a few bubbles. More on that later. If air come's pouring out of that watch as you are SLOWLY releasing the pressure -- DO NOT STOP. DO NOT STOP, but even more importantly, DO NOT - NOT - NOT let the pressure go to zero. NO, NO, NO, NO, NO! Pull that watch up out of the water while the pressure is slowly dropping and before it hits zero. IT MUST NOT GO TO ZERO while a leaky watch is under water becasue once the positive air pressure bleeds out, water can get in. No water can get in that leaky watch while the air pressure inside is bleeding out. Now, back to my point about volume. If you test your watches with bezels before reading this, you will report back that they all leak. Not so. When you pressurized the system, you did that by pumping in air. You stuffed three times the air into that system that was originally there so you pumped three times the air into the space beneath the bezel, where the lug holes are, etc that would be there without all that pressure. That little airbubble trapped under the bezel, or inside the lug hole, or wherever, is going to expand to three times its size as the pressure released and as it does, it won't fit there anymore. In other words, a few little bubbles are perfectly normal. Remember, when you pump in six atmospheres of pressure, you are compressing all the air inside that cylinder, forcing every space to hold seven times as much air as it held to start with. That is a HUGE differential. Watch the springbars and you will see bubbles coming from them, as well as from under the bezel, lug holes, from the underside of lugs . . . anywhere a tiny bubble could cling. When that bubble gets seven times as large, it will float up. Believe me, when seven times the vollume of air normally inside a watch case comes rushing out, nobody will have to tell you it leaked. If it passes just fine at two atm, repeat the process at five or six. You will find that any of the better quality reps does just fine. Good luck, Bill

Once upon a time, earlier this year, I fell victim to the alluring concept of the replica watch. By simply typing the words "replica watch" on google, many sites came up, but none of the reputable ones you will find in this forum. Instead, you will be plagued by the biggest ripoff scam websites on the internet. I have discovered the largest watch ripoff umbrella on the internet. The group of internet based companies have the same swiss upgrade gimmick and are based primarily out of New York. If you buy from one of the following sites, you WILL be ripped off!! I almost fell victim to one of these rip off sites and thank god I found a reputable rep forum that saved me. Here is what I know: - The dealer will convince you to do C.O.D or Wire Transfer. - If you are out of the USA, they will say that due to security and fraud that credit card orders will not be accepted. They will convince you to do a money wire since that is the next safest method since you will have their business bank account information. Little do you know that the info provided is not actually a bank account!! It is a routing number where your funds are redirected several times until it ends up in a pre-paid debit/credit card company. The money enters the fraudster's prepaid debit/credit card where the funds are withdrawn immediately. These pre-paid accounts are set up all over the United States and are extremely hard to track. There are many aliases and phone numbers that these scammers use. They don't really have a base of operations and work off pre-paid cell phone numbers. They have set up a fake rep review site called http://www.fakereviews.com and http://www.replicainspector.com. The pictures used on these sites are of actual gen watches!! Not the watch(es) you may or may not receive. How do I know so much? I almost fell victim and actually wired funds to bluefakes. Luckily I have very powerful friends in the banking industry. With thorough investigation and persistance, I tracked to where the funds ended up. I not only got my money back, but ended up freezing several of their accounts and money returned back to other victims. Here is the list of the companies: GLOBAL REPLICA Additional Business Names: A Fine Luxury Time AFineLuxuryTime.com Allfakes Betterswiss BlueFakes Fullswiss Go Replicas Italian Fakes Jewelers Laststopwatch Limited Watch My Swiss Replica MySwissReplica.com New Replica Newwatch4u Nextswiss Nyswiss OnTimeFakes Precise Knock Offs Ravereplicas Redhotwatch Replicaceo Reproduccion Global Showtimereplicawatches Sizzlefakes SwissFreeze Zenithmotor I am really sorry that it took so long to compile this. I read about a victim on repgeek and got really angry. I really wanted to put the past behind me but something has to be done. I hope I am not too late to try and help others. These are only the companies that I know of under the same group. There potentially can be more. I have put together this information in hope that other people do not fall victim to these petty thugs. Jawo

Louis Brandt would be proud!

Nice, I plan on getting one, then getting Domi to add the extra jewels needed to make it reliable.

That made me chuckle

The inspiration for my build is from the original press release of the 16610LV. Though they do exist, they were never for sale. What intrigued me was that the press release model or the so called Mk 0 is a really a model that transitioned from old to new. While resembling the Mk 1, the main differences for the Mk 0 are the lug holes and "16610" is stamped between the lugs. For current LV models, "16610T" is stamped between the lugs to denote the lack of lug holes. Introducing my 16610LV Mk 0 build... Because I don't have a side profile shot of an actual gen Mk 0, I couldn't determine if the 703 crown had a long or short coronet, so I opted for a long one. JMB did a masterful job at drilling out the lug holes. The important piece of this project is the insert of course. I used a WM9 insert, until I recently found a gen Mk 1 insert. Love the flat top "4". In addition, the bezel fonts on the gen are hard to copy. The gen "3" and "4" fonts have slight flairs at the ends, while rep inserts are pretty much straight lines. By comparison to the WM9 insert, the gen is more bright in color. I used a Sean case set for the build and a Yuki 3135. The Y3135 is running without and problems so far. One of the minor flaws of the Sean case is that the lug engravings aren't deep enough, but the case is stamped "16610", there is "T" for this case set. Standard Sean bracelet...for now... So my build consists of a gen Mk 1 dial and bezel insert, rep hands, Sean case and bracelet, Y3135 movement with WSO date wheel. Thanks for looking!

Sent from my wooden drums using Tupperware.

Wow respect on that effort.

Trusty Time is the best. I'm fairly new to this myself, but I've bought 4 watches from him and each one has been an outstanding experience. Here's his website : www.yourtrustytime.com The guy who runs it goes by the name of "Andrew" but I doubt that's his real name. Despite that his English is pretty good and he always responds to emails very quickly. When I find the model I want, I do a search by price (highest on top). Once I find the one I want, I'll do a search for posts on that watch. I find out whether it's a good replica and if there are any issues. All four of the ones I bought were highly reviewed. Instead of doing a search using the forum's search engine, I do a search using Google. If you type in "site:www.rwg.cc" then the search criteria, you get way better hits than if you use the forum. For example, type "site:www.rwg.cc Omega Planet Ocean" into Google, and you will get a ton of excellent results. Type the same search in the forum and it's pretty weak. Once you find the watch you want and decide to purchase, here's what you can expect (purchasing through Trusty time): ***************************************************************************************************************************** 1. Place an order through the website. It's a very simple process. I've used the PayPal option every time so I can't speak to the process for paying with CC. 2. I receive a confirmation email within a few hours informing me my order was received. 3. Using PayPal, I then receive another email with instructions on how to pay through PayPal. This email instructs me to send an email letting him know after I make payment, which I do. 4. Andrew responds to that email thanking me and letting me know I will receive the QC email with 24-48 hours. 5. The QC email arrives with photos of the watch from the front, back, sides, bracelet and clasp. There's also a shot of it hooked up to the timegraph and another with it sitting on your shipping form with your address on it. Take a good look at the pictures and make sure you like the way everything looks. He asks that you not post QC pics on the forum, but if you've done your homework on the watch you shouldn't need to. Every watch I've received so far from Andrew looked really nice in the photos, but I've heard other members ask for another watch based on something that didn't look right (pearl alignment, etc). Keep in mind that the photos are very close up so you will see every little fleck on dust or lint. The photos are also taken with a bright light and with a white background so everything looks a little washed out. Don't get wrapped around this. Try to keep your focus on the way everything on the watch itself looks. So far in my experience, every watch looks way better in person that they did in the QC pictures, and the QC pictures weren't bad! 6. Once you decide you are happy with the watch, reply to the QC email letting him know you accept the watch. If he doesn't hear from you within 24 hours he will send the watch without your approval. 7. He then replies to your QC acceptance email letting you know the watch has been shipped and you can get your tracking info off the website. To find it, log on at the Trusty website and go to 'My Account'. There will be a list of your orders with the most recent at the top. Select 'View' next to it and then look down the verbiage (which is usually a copy-paste of the text in your emails). At the end of the latest email, after his signature will be the tracking number. Every one I've gotten has been through EMS so my number always looks like this: EMS: EE123456789CN. This number is also at the top of the shipping form in the last QC pic. 8. I then go to the EMS website to track (http://www.ems.com.cn/english.html). However, it will usually take a day or two for any info to be posted here. There's a little trick with the verification on the tracking page though that took me a little bit to figure out. There's two boxes; the first is 'Shipment Number' which is obviously where you enter the tracking number Andrew provided. The next one says 'Verification' which would normally lead me to enter a CAPTCHA code from some kind of small photo of numbers or letters, but there's not one there. The trick is that you have to click the mouse in that box before the code will pop up! The EMS site has good tracking through China, but will post less detailed information once it leaves the country. If you are in the US, you can enter the same tracking number into the tracking page of the USPS website to get good tracking info once it reaches the US. 9. My experience so far has been really good with shipping times. Usually 7-10 days from the time I replied to the QC email. I once had the package stuck in customs for 5 full days, but even then it still got to me in 13 days total. It's hard, but this is the time to be patient. The watch will show up. ***************************************************************************************************************************** That's the process I went through on all 4 watches with Andrew at Trusty Time. There is another dealer who goes by "Joshua" from a website called "Perfect Clones" who is as highly reviewed as Andrew. However, once I found a reliable dealer who sends me good watches reliably, I don't see the need to go anywhere else. If you do decide to try Perfect Clones, check out his section here on RWG. I've heard that there are a few scam websites of his. They're called "Perfect Clones" and look identical to his, but are not the same URL and will get you ripped off (yes I see the irony in the fakes of the fake). But Andrew has been solid and reliable, so he's the one I recommend.