Leaderboard

My 7922

back to the FC V3 Soon it's off for a heart transplant, so need to wear it a lot now!!

Yup but this one running like a champ, sometimes you get lucky.

I miss her already!!! :( Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Assuming this is the A7750 movement, and not the 21J fixed second hand model? The large second hand you are referring to is the chronograph hand, and parked at 12oclock, the same as the sub-dials @9 & @3 indicate the chronograph has been stopped, and reset. Your seconds hand is the hand of the sub-dial @6, this is where your second hand is. To start the chronograph you need to unscrew the crown @ 2, and push it. Press the same pusher to stop the chronograph. Then to reset the chronograph you unscrew the crown @4 and push that pusher, and all the hands will reset to 12oclock apart from your send hand in the sub-dial @6. Got a link to the watch from Andrews site so we are on the same page here?

Lets see those blackbay tudors then ? mine is still on the way Here is my fantasy version ! Which cost me more to build than the new blackbay rep from puretime ! including 3 different inserts and this is my still in transit Blackbay rep !

This IWC beauty today AJ

Still wearing the Cal. 1887, a masterpiece from TAG Heuer.

Hi and welcome to the forum. Quite some list You have there:) Good luck with Your choices. TC/BK have a consistently good build quality, the others may have different quality levels so You get better or worse ones (Your bet:) Actually Andrews ceramic sub is a good choice, superlumed in blue with a perfect (adjustable) rolesor bracelet, the turning of the 120-click bezel is smooth and functional, inner rehault Rolex engraving, laser-etched crown in the glass at 6, serial number on the caseset so You may wear it on a NATO, serial engraved in the rehault at 6 too, screw-down crown with rubber, a wrong pearl, a too thick caseset, maybe another datefont - but who knows or bothers? It´s a lot of value for the money, You will love it, next You might get a green-lumed 16600 Seadweller without Cyclops to match it. Than the shinier TC - or an Ap Diver or a Steelfish….. Glossy picture of Andrews ceramic sub: IWC Portuguese Chrono: The main seconds hand does not move unless You use the Chrono. To avoid movement problems You might choose to get a reliable Quartz (Yes, I´m hearing everybody screaming:), there are several versions of it - like this, not gen-like but a beautiful watch with useful day-function and 24-hr dial (there are others, also from Andrew) - try to sit 1 meter back and tell me if the seconds at 6 sweep or tick......You simply can´t:) more detail? Here: 6. Take a look at the JLC Master Geographic too, beautiful GMT watch 10. or the DSSD It´s fun to be around - every watch a new discovery and adventure. Cheers

Perfect clones website is www.p-cls.com N.

If you bought the 2836-2 clone from Toro, that could be the reason your movement is failing. In fact, that watch doesn't come with a 2836-2 clone, but a new high beat piece of junk 2813 variant. I know because I just recieved one. There are some threads about it at RWI. This is not a good development for us

I think I seen one that sold a year ago for about $2000 so basing my value on it and to be honest it looked in good nice. I am setting my heart on a ref.16000 because I'd like a quickset date.

I buy old Revos, Julbos and Vuarnets, with the true glass lenses, on fleabay for $25 to $75 a pair. It's worth it to me.

Your*** (11th Line) Can't allow you to think I'm illiterate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I knew you had this stuff down fraggle.

Welcome back from a relatively new member! You can't go wrong with these ones: - Superocean Abyss Chrono (noob, ask Angus if there are still any stocks) - Seawolf v2 - Chronomat B01 - Avenger v4 (noob)

Nespresso for me