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Gen vintage pearl just arrived! And it popped right in with a perfect fit and matches my lume, hmm must be a blue moon tonight lol

I'll start things off today with my 6538

The pictures shown are not sterile versions just gens photoshopped, If there was a movement that could replicate the gen then there would be a more accurate rep made using it. All the reps whether sterile or not will have the sub dials too close to the centre.

It has been a labor of love and frustration to source all the parts in this build. Anyone whose attempted to build a two tone Rolex knows these projects are not easy nor cheap. Thanks Om3ga_Guy and Rudy40 for helping on this build. We've all spent way to much time reading about these 16613, lol. And of course thank you Misiekped, Mike, for putting all the pieces together. You've been extremely helpful over the past couple of months with the details of this build. The watch turned out better than I imagined. Watch Specs: Franken TC 16613 TC V6 Mid Case TC V6 Caseback (w/ Gen Gasket) Gen 16613 Dial Gen 16613 Hands Gen Champagne DW Gen 18k Crown (w/ Gen Gasket) Yuki 3135 (Serviced) Gen 3135 Movement Parts Ratchet Wheel #305 Stem #201 Case Screws #5100 2x Reversing Wheels #540 2x Setting Wheel #250 Canon/Minute Pinion #335 Hour Wheel #280 Minute Wheel #260 Second Wheel # 360 Gen 93253 TT Bracelet Gen LEC Crystal Gen 18k Bezel Assembly WM9 93253 TT Clasp Assembly/Waterproofing/Movement Service

Highly recommend the tc v6 case and have lug holes drilled. I prefer it to the wm9 or sean for various reasons. I had a two piece tt gen bracelet before the sels. Nothing beats that gen gold sheen.

Stunning build. I did a spread sheet for a similar build a while back and seeing this finished proves it would be worth the effort and expense. One of my all time favorites. Words really cannot describe how much I like this build. Absolute perfection. Sent from my droptop using telepathy.

Helson Gauge today

Soak in acetone to dissolve any loctite/glue. Then use a triangular file/broach to remove.

hey op show you friend the pics of my sub that will shut his cocky mouth lol ive even got a better dial than him so if u get the same sub c as me he will shut up bro ha ha

From the Noob Factory and Perfect Clones~ The Super Avenger Black Steel Before I get into the review there are a few issues I would like to address beforehand.. I named Perfect Clones, for the simple reason that Joshua is the "Senior" member of the "Factory dealers", some say the "Cartel", and has worked on this project.. as the Senior Member Joshua works with the Makers to produce some of the reps that are introduced into the Rep World.. and others have a hand also.. Andrew ~ Trusty.. King watch...these are the dealers that source the genuine models for the Makers to replicate, all dealers enjoy the sales after a short grace period.. some have world wide distribution and other dealers buy the rep for sale from the factory dealers.. there are many other variables.. so before anyone yells.. "Favoritism".. you all are free to choose which dealer you purchase your rep from.. I am giving credit where it is due.. "Period".. the choice is yours to make... I also purchase my own rep for review.. and do this like many others.. for the community that I am a part of.. "Period".. So on to the Review.. I could not get a definitive answer to the question of PVD or DLC.. as I was told the Super Avenger (which I will refer to as the SABS) finish was very different from the Skyland BS and the finish does affect the colour somewhat.. and the maker did what was needed to replicate the finish and colour to the genuine... and after viewing the genuine I was surprised to find the finish and colour are very different from the Skyland BS.. the Skyland BS was not heavily brushed and is more 'flat' in is texture.. where as the SABS has a heavier brushed finish and has more sheen, depending on the lighting.. In researching gen fora's for an answer I came upon this interesting explanation of the SABS finish that gives it it's unique colour .. so as my dealer was a little confused over what the maker actually did to the coating.. they listed it as PVD.. but it was explained to me that it is not strict PVD nor DLC.. this may explain how they arrived at replicating the coating on the SBS.. since the rep is not black; in certain lighting it is actually light ~ to dark grey, unlike straight PVD which is more black.. the coating on the SABS is certainly not Black .. which leads me to believe that like the description below the Carbon nitrate was deposited on the metal via the PVD method..(the treatment for PVD.. but the Carbon nitride was deposited onto the metal. Now, this is the only explanation I could find for the unusual colour and shine..as different compounds can alter the colour of the metal as describe below... Interesting theory, and as I said, my dealer could not give me a definitive answer, other than the SABS genuine which he procured was very different in colour and the maker did what was needed to replicate it..so I am assuming for practical purposes it was listed as "PVD" It's interesting to note that many science papers refer to "Physical vapor Depostion" as a "generic term" for a 'technique'. As I was perplexed as to why the first project was scrubbed .. it was being done by pics.. the prototype was not as it should be so... the project was started all over again with a different maker and a genuine copy.. and we have waited a little over a year for the results... I could not figure why they would do PVD when the Skyland was done in DLC,.. but as you can see below the 2 models are very different in texture and colour. This is the genuine SABS.. shinny finish This is the Skyland BS .. As you can see the 2 models are very different in the finish under the coating this may explain why the SABS could not be done with conventional DLC.. but the carbon nitrate had to be applied via PVD.. so the finish as you can see is very different from the Skyland BS It is grey, like the Skyland DLC and the sheen is rather obvious.. With the Human eye.. you will not see the splotches on the finish. Notice the sheen on the bezel.. as it should be This is not the colour of straight PVD Another angle of the genuine again not black.. not totally grey The colour replicated rather well.. IMO the pushers and crown are not brushed (on the genuine) The finish from another angle.. nicely done Dark Grey The Dial.. notice something totally out of context?? The bloody Markers are CENTERED The Sub rings turn from black to silver depending on lighting The rehaut.. notice the colour of the red of the rehaut the tips of the Chrono hands are matched a bit better than the Skyland BS was..still may be a very un-noticeable shade off The Sub dial lines are as they should be a better look at the texture of the dial in strong light The AR is a nice Plum in less direct lighting.. blue hue in stronger light The Case Back A pic of the Skyland BS.. the colour of the SABS is the same.. the finish is different though on the Skyland so I believe the maker did a good job with the coating of the SABS rep, same grey as the Skyland DLC The bezel has just the slightest play in between clicks.. just a bit loose .. not an issue though... I would double check these screws to make sure they are fastened securely, if they are faux.. (I have not checked) locktite super glue may help to keep them in place Nicely, there are no sharp edges to the case and tang buckle..the tabs on the bezel are a little sharper but not an issue..the chrono hand is nicely centered the sub needles work well...the pushers are solid, same as my genuine chrono's.. no issues there. and to repeat, the lume is centered .. excellent!!...the lume from what I see, without full charge is strong.. even my relume on my Skyland does not glow like a torch.. it is a very minute lume size on the Breitlings SA and Skylands.. IMO it will not appear as big as the SS Super Avenger due to the colour.. and with the rubber strap sits nicely on my wrist.. I do have the same HKtan black with red stitching that I used on my Skyland.. it has been waiting over a year for the SABS.. If anything I will drop a ETA 7750 in it.. the rotor on the A7750 needs a lube.. it is rather noisy ... sop .. In closing .. I think the coating was well done.. I believe some cleaning of the metal will be in order. fresh DLC/PVD could always use a polish without any petroleum by products .. just water and a toothbrush me thinks.. Thank you for viewing.. good luck with your SABS if you decide to go with it..I hope this helped shed some light on the rep.. AC/Lani